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Re-Doing a '63 Bolens 800


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#76 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2015 - 07:35 PM

I wanted to pull the head and check the valves.  I also wanted to de-carbonize the head and top of the engine.  After pulling the head, I poured some Sea-Foam over the carbon area and let it soak.  I scraped it with a plastic scraper and then more Sea-Foam soaking.  I repeated the process 3 times, each time letting it soak about 15-20 minutes.  I then ended with a gentle wipe with a ScotchBrite pad with carb cleaner.  I got most of the carbon off of the head and some off of the piston.  The piston is setting at TDC and soaking with Sea-Foam also.

I think I need to pull the valves out too and let them soak. Any special tools needed for that before I pop that cover off? How hard is it getting the retaining clips off or getting off whatever is holding the valves in place?

Thanks all

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#77 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 12:05 AM

Anyone using threadlock (medium strength) on the bolts when they are reinstalling the head or carb bolts?

Just curious if it is a needed step.

Thanks



#78 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 07:26 AM

Looking good!

 

To remove the valves you'll need a valve spring compressor.

There are two tapered "keepers" holding the valves in near the base of the valve stem, those can be easily removed with the spring compressor holding the spring up.

 

You can usually get those tools at a local auto store, if your unsuccessful I sell them for $26.

 

I have never used thread lock on any of my engines , if you torque the bolts to spec you have nothing to worry about IMO.


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#79 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 05:02 PM

You're certainly not leaving anything to chance with your recommissioning. Doing a grand job.
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#80 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 05:18 PM

You're certainly not leaving anything to chance with your recommissioning. Doing a grand job.

It's one of those things:  I have the carb off because it needs attention, since it's out of the way, I'll clean the rest of the fuel system....and since the carb is off... might as well take the head off and clean the carbon so I don't have to remove the carb again....the heads off, might as well check the cylinder and valves....valves have carbon....might as well fix that too...and so on and so on.. :watch_over_fence:


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#81 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 03:22 PM

Can someone tell me the secret of removing the valves with the split collar retainers?

I have the entire valve spring compressed and I cannot figure out what comes next. I've wiggled the valve, lifted the valve and can't figure how to get the split collar retainer to release the bottom spring retainer and thus, release the valve.  I can only spin it in circles, which does nothing but irriate me more. Been at one valve for over an hour now with no luck.  Youtube had nothing for me, only retainer clip valves on Briggs engines.  I can see the bottom retainer plate and the split collar retainers sticking up through the middle, but cannot get anything to release.

Having never done this before,  I'd appreciate any help on releasing the valves on this Wisconsin S8.  If I can't figure it out, I'll push it back in the shed and cover her up for another day.  Thanks fellas.



#82 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 03:54 PM

Can someone tell me the secret of removing the valves with the split collar retainers?

I have the entire valve spring compressed and I cannot figure out what comes next. I've wiggled the valve, lifted the valve and can't figure how to get the split collar retainer to release the bottom spring retainer and thus, release the valve.  I can only spin it in circles, which does nothing but irriate me more. Been at one valve for over an hour now with no luck.  Youtube had nothing for me, only retainer clip valves on Briggs engines.  I can see the bottom retainer plate and the split collar retainers sticking up through the middle, but cannot get anything to release.

Having never done this before,  I'd appreciate any help on releasing the valves on this Wisconsin S8.  If I can't figure it out, I'll push it back in the shed and cover her up for another day.  Thanks fellas.

 

Once the spring is compressed simply take a small screwdriver and push the "Keepers" off the valve stem

Sometimes they will be stuck so when the spring is compressed move the valve up so its raised then give the valve head a sharp tap with a wooden mallet and the valve will drop down along with the "Keepers"


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#83 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 04:14 PM

Well, frustrated after two hours and not wanting to damage anything, I already put it all away. I thought about sliding a stick of dynamite underneath it and walking away, but I chose to just put it in the shed instead. I am working the next two weeks straight so it's disappointing my stupidity wasted my only day off.

What are the "keepers"?  The flat plates the spring rides on or the split collar pieces that wrap around the valve stem?

Also, I am only supposed to have the spring compressed, right? Not the bottom or top plates with the spring too?



#84 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 04:24 PM

You will want to compress the spring and the metal plates, The keepers are what keep the valve locked in place ( Part # AH9)

 

When the spring/plates are fully compressed the valve can then be moved up and down, to release them a few taps with a mallet usually releases them and the valve drops down. Be sure you do this on a bench so the keepers dont get lost when you do this

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#85 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 05:52 PM

Thanks for the help Brian.

It was nothing a beer couldn't fix.  After a few deep breaths and a cold beer, taking your advice, I rolled it back out and compressed the spring, lifted up on the valve, then I placed the opened end of a wrench under the spring compressor to support it and tapped the top of the valve with a wooden mallet. It popped right off and I was able to pull the valve. This is the intake valve.  It is pretty crusty in there.

 

I have started scraping down in the hole with my plastic scraper, staying away from the ground edge.  I have the valve soaking is Sea-Foam and will see how that goes.

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Edited by rumbleseat, March 30, 2015 - 05:53 PM.

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#86 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 05:54 PM

Glad you got it out. :dancingbanana:


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#87 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 06:26 PM

The intake was much worse than the exhaust for some reason.  Everything I've read said the exhaust is the crusty one, but not mine.  Maybe it was serviced at one time.

But they are both out now.  I've researched cleaning off the carbon and have read a bunch of home rememdies that people argue will work or not.  I am trying two of them, one soaking in Sea-Foam (it worked good on the head) and one soaking in Easy Off oven cleaner.  I will keep you posted.  My carb is done now too and will post some pics of it.  Thanks for the help.

 

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#88 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 06:44 PM

To clean the valves I run them on a wire wheel to clean them up. To clean the inside I use a set of dentist like picks to scrape the carbon deposits out.


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#89 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2015 - 12:32 PM

I got everything cleaned and lapped, changed the reed in the valve box and buttoned everything back up with a new head gasket and tappet cover gasket.  Once I get the carburetor back on, I'll push the start button and see what happens.  No pics of the re-install, them dang split collar pieces and my fat fingers got me all greasy with their re-install.

I will say, the Easy-Off did nothing to the carbon and the Sea Foam did okay. The Sea Foam was clear and early this morning it was black from the valve soaking in it.  I wire-wheeled the leftover heavy carbon and then lapped both valves.  I think I did everything right.  I hit the start button with everything reinstalled and the compression and exhaust noise sounded normal, nothing clanking or sounding wrong. I should get the carb installed early Thursday morning I hope.


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#90 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2015 - 03:20 PM

Got the carb back. It turned out great.  

 

I mounted it and set the screws back to where they were when I removed it.  After two or three hits of the starter button, BAM! We were off and running!!  High speed 3rd gear is a ton of fun.   I ran around on for a minute or two and then she choked out on me.  I think it was because there wasn't much gas in the tank and I was climbing a hill.  It runs pretty good. I think I will tinker the set screws a bit more now that the top end has been cleaned and the carb cleaned too.

Here are some before and afters of the carb.

 

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