113 replies to this topic

[Bolens 1000]

Looks like your off to a good start, For some reason this old gear oil has a unique smell to it. Everyone I've opened up has the smell you describe

 

Those speed selectors generally freeze up from sitting for years but usually dont take much to get going again.

 

Thanks for the pics, looking forward to watching the rebuild unfold!

[Texas Deere and Horse]

Looks like your making headway on it. The oil in my 600 (Squire 6) looked about the same and had a bad spoiled smell to it also. I bet it is the original oil from the factory.

[rumbleseat]

Just a bit of sludge

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 

Edited by rumbleseat, March 02, 2015 - 04:08 PM.

[Texas Deere and Horse]

Just a bit of sludge

 

Sludge yes, but I don't see any signs of water being in there. Great deal..

[Bolens 1000]

Not bad! I've seen much worse come off a bottom pan!

[rumbleseat]

Took the top cover off of the trans and that means the seat and fenders too.  I may end up just tearing it all down and painting it, I am still on the fence.  Tranny had a bunch of crud on the walls I have to clean up and out, but it looks pretty good from the top and from the bottom.  I'll clean it up, put the new gaskets on (thanks Brian) button her up and put the new oil back in.  Any problems with filling it from the top (because it's quicker) up to the fill hole before I put the top cover back on?  As always, thanks.

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 

[68guns]

Great Scott! Is that top rail gear chewed up or what?

[Bolens 1000]

Great Scott! Is that top rail gear chewed up or what?

 

Are you seeing the welds?

The gears look good to me?

Actually this may be the best looking gears I have seen in a 3 speed in a long time!

[rumbleseat]

Great Scott! Is that top rail gear chewed up or what?

 

No, it's not chewed up. It's a combination of the weld of the shift fork and brittle gasket pieces that fell when I popped off the top. I'll take another photo after I clean it.

[Bolens 1000]

WOW looking at these photos you are a lucky guy!

This is a early run of the 800 where originally these left the factory without a brake drum on the drive shaft. The clutch was just supposed to magically stop on its own which many times it didnt which is why so many of these 3 speeds have chewed gears.

 

Soon after Bolens started making them with the brake drum which aided in stopping the drive shaft so you would shift without problems.

There supposedly was a bulletin that went out describing this problem on early models but none of us have been able to locate the hard copy to verify.

 

 

(Brake drum shown in photo below)

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[rumbleseat]

Cut my hands on the gears over and over but I got most of the gunk out of the tranny case.

 

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[Bolens 1000]

Looks great!

[Kfs35]

Looking good!

[rumbleseat]

Ran into a problem and need some help.

 

I printed out the instructions for adjusting the rear wheel end play and thought I'd tackle that.  When I jacked the rear wheels off of the ground, I noticed the right rear wheel wobbled or rocked and had a lot of play. Thinking it was an end play issue, I followed the procedure but no matter how tight that castle nut is on that right rear wheel, the wheel still wobbles.  I can tighten it until the transaxle gears bind and don't move and the wheel will still wobble. There is a lot of play around the washer that goes against the wheel hub behind the castle nut and enough play behind the hub where the wheel hub sits against the axle housing.  Is the hub of the wheel jacked up or did I blow the adjustment?  I cannot get it to not wobble and it was like that when I jacked it up to do the adjustment.  Any ideas?  Here are some photos of the gap of the wobbly wheel behind the nut and washer, against the axle and the location of the axle pin in the trans.

 

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

[rumbleseat]

Okay, after staring at it for 30 minutes, the axle has the cast housing, then a smooth shoulder the wheel hub rides on and then the threaded part where the nut tightens.  The wheel hub is sliding a fraction past the shoulder wall towards the housing.  When the nut and washer are tightened, they hit the shoulder wall and go tight but since the wheel hub is setting inside of the shoulder wall and fraction of an inch, the washer and nut are not striking the wheel hub but just tightening against the axle shoulder wall. The wheel then wobbles between the gap where the washer bottoms out against the axle shoulder wall and the cast housing.  I hope that makes sense.

I can't think of a remedy other than shimming behind the wheel but that causes problems with the free wheeling pin.