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Cleaning a dirty motor


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#1 junkyardjeff OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 09:48 PM

A few years ago I pieced togather a HH100 for my custom 10 plow tractor and I do not know how good the shortblock had been maintained,I changed the oil in the fall and it only has about 5 hours on the oil and its black and looks like its been in there for years. Other then completely dissassembling is there any way I can clean the motor out,I was thinking that when it gets parked for the summer I might drain the oil and fill with kerosene and let it sit for a couple months. If anyone has a better ideal let me know what would work.


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#2 JBRamsey ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 09:55 PM

In my opinion, if the oil is getting dirty it's doing it's job. I wouldn't stress over it too much. If you're concerned just change the oil more frequently. The one and only time I put kerosene in an engine to try and clean it out didn't go over very well. I'm curious about what others will recommend because I just picked ups a couple of suburbans that weren't well maintained.
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#3 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 10:06 PM

Are you using detergent oil or non-detergent? If the engine had been run with non-detergent and you switched to detergent, the oil will get black quick. Change it often or go to non-detergent.


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#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 12:26 AM

NON-detergent is for the dark days, wouldn't put that in anything, even the older cars that called for it. Try Shell Rotella 30, not the 15w-40 and just make a regular change. Maybe your crankcase vent needs good cleaning? A better gas, like 91 octane might keep the black fumes less and not passing rings so much. Marvel oil mixed in with oil, not too much, and have heard can put in the gas for cleaning comustion chambers too, nut not sure on that. Would think that would make smokey??  Sea Foam in gas is good cleaner for carb and chamber.


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#5 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 12:58 AM

NON-detergent is for the dark days, wouldn't put that in anything, even the older cars that called for it. 

 

I agree BUT when starting to use detergent oils in an engine that has been run on non-detergent you need to be careful, That engine is bound to be coated on the inside with sludge which the detergent oils will cut loose. High detergent additives need to be used with care during this time.  This sludge can plug oil passages. The first oil change I would do after two hours and  every ten hours after that so the sludge is purged from the engine. When the oil starts staying clean then you can extend your change intervals. I'm old enough to remember what the inside of engines that ran Non-detergent oil looked like and it wasn't very pretty. 


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#6 Bill 76 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 01:44 AM

The oil is doing what it's supposed to do,just do what the other guys said and keep changing it.As said don't put kerosene in it,


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#7 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 03:00 AM

Regular oil changes and renew air filter element/ clean air filter is the key.
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#8 Jazz ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 09:47 AM

Get some Rislone and follow the instructions. You add Rislone to oil, run engine 5 minutes then dump oil. Do this each time a oil change is required and should purge engine.  Sometimes a second treatment is required... Old engines can arrive with many years of neglect. When I buy a vehicle i add Rislone at the first oil change to purge the sludge out.


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#9 3v0 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 02:05 PM

This is a bit of a tangent but related.  

 

I have been using new oil to clean old engines and it usually turns black in short order.  I am thinking of switching to a hand-me-down sort of thing putting used oil from clean engines into the unknown engines for the first change or two.  



#10 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 02:58 PM

switching to a hand-me-down sort of thing putting used oil from clean engines into the unknown engines for the first change or two.  

 

This is only a suggestion but unless you know the metal and acid content of that used oil you might want to reconsider doing this. One or two quarts of new oil is a lot of good insurance and piece of mind. 


Edited by Cvans, February 22, 2015 - 03:00 PM.

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#11 junkyardjeff OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 03:24 PM

I am using detergent oil and since its now in the garage I will change the oil again,this is my plow tractor and since it usually sits outside I am using 5w20 oil so it will start when its below 0 so is that too thin or should I stick with 30#,I was not planning on running the motor with kerosene in it but just let it soak and will change it again.


Edited by junkyardjeff, February 22, 2015 - 03:30 PM.


#12 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 03:49 PM

Probably one of the best things you could do to get it out would be to drain the oil with the engine hot and leave the plug out overnight. Maybe even tilt it toward the plug.  I've heard against using a multi-grade oil in air cooled small engines due to the heat breaking down the friction modifiers. I'm sure there wil be a bunch that have done it without any problems too. You're probably not in danger in this weather though. Might be better to run a 10-30 or 15-40 though.



#13 junkyardjeff OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 05:03 PM

I can get straight 20 oil but its non detergent if it would be better for the motor.



#14 junkyardjeff OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 06:33 PM

I am going to step it up to 10w30 this time,I found the 20# oil but its only in 2 gallon containers and I found I had two gallons of 15w40 oil I could use too. It sits outside so I want it to start when its below zero so I do not want it to get too thick.


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#15 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 07:04 PM

You should fine with 10-30 oil in the winter.






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