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The Scoop Tote Thread

jrco scoop tote scoop tote homemade scoop tote

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#31 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 03:06 PM

Not sure when I'll be up that direction! Might have to stop in on one of my trips to Wichita!



#32 gtcsreg ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 05:18 PM

Here ya go Kenny.

Reg

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#33 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 06:19 PM

So, it looks like the bolt goes all the way through the side?



#34 gtcsreg ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 07:08 PM

So, it looks like the bolt goes all the way through the side?


If you look at the earlier photos there is no bolt inside the bucket so I'd say a welded on headless bolt or threaded piece of rod. The only issue I would see with a bolt through might be stuff from the bucket getting between the bolt head and bucket and eventually causing it to seize or rust in position. Maybe anyway?

Reg
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#35 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 07:12 PM

Thanks, Reg! I thought a 'stud' would be the way to go, nothing inside to catch dirt.


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#36 gtcsreg ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 12:34 PM

"Proof is in the puddin'" photos. All with this little 42" feller. Very heavy wet snow.

Reg

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#37 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 12:54 PM

Reg, it looks like you were able to pile the snow up fairly good. I am really getting interested in this. It looks like it would be useful year round. I think it would be neat to use as a carrier on the back. Fill it whatever way that works, and just dump it out. 


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#38 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 02:01 PM

Looks like you got a good amount of snow there I know you need the moisture. My LGT 100 is at my moms with the snow blade I made for it & put on when I was there at Christmas. I will find out if someone was able to get there & use it tomorrow when I talk to her. When I built the scoop for the back of my tractor I used steel tubing for pivot attachment to the bucket. One tube 1 to 1 1/2 inches long was welded to the bucket with some gussets. the second tube 2 1/2 inches long was welded to the frame since I used 2 X 2 inch square tube for that part of the frame. A pin the size to fit inside the tube connects the 2 tubes & on the tube I attached to the bucket a hole was drilled for another pin is used to lock the pivot pin to that part of the tubing. On the tubing I put in the frame I installed a grease zerk so that side could be greased.  

Rear Scoop.jpg

I wish I had a picture of the pivot but on this picture the pins sticking out the side are visible. They are not the pins in it now as the ones that are used have been cut to the right length. When I am where this equipment is I will try to get some pictures of the pivot. That will be at Easter.

 

Charlie


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#39 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 03:33 PM

Thanks, Charlie! Any and all pics and ideas are welcome here!



#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 12:51 PM

Here's some more SketchUp pics. This is my vision of what I would build.

Bucket 1.JPG     Bucket 2.JPG

 

Frame 1.JPG     Frame 2.JPG

 

Frame 3.JPG

 

 

As I add more into the frame, I'll post more pics. I am looking at using the flange bearings so the bucket can be separated from the frame if the need arises, plus that keeps the pivots from wearing so much.

 

When I get the drawings done, I may look into something like a 'Johnny Bucket'.


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#41 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 03:50 PM

I'm looking at the Swisher buckets for ATV's. They look pretty good and easy to modify mount I'm thinking. Guess the manual dump release is weakest point, many said they had to manually click it back in lock, getting off unit to do that. Would have to figure out the hoist lift mount if needed too. I can lift it some with tractor, but I think would need more and using stock mount idea gets it up farther from the get-go. Walmart has best on-line price now, seemed odd!  Might be cheaper to buy the bucket, than to make it?? 44 " size and 1.3 Cubic foot.


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#42 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 09:33 PM

I'd like to make a couple of these, small one for a sleeve hitch and bigger one for cat0 3 point.


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#43 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 09:57 PM

I did a google search and found a video of one in action.

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=dOv2hZJ4DJY


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#44 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2015 - 01:14 AM

As I add more into the frame, I'll post more pics. I am looking at using the flange bearings so the bucket can be separated from the frame if the need arises, plus that keeps the pivots from wearing so much.

 

A piece of 1/2" pipe welded to a short strap that can be bolted to the top of the arms would serve better. Flange bearings have a cost attached to them that is considerably higher, and they will eventually seize up due to exposure and lack of use. 

 

The pins for my GT's FEL go through 1/2" pipe and now have considerable wear, but that loader has seen more use over a winter than the scoop will see over it's lifetime. The loader has over 2000 hours of service and the pins have never seen grease.

 

K.I.S.S. Keep it simple, sunshine.


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#45 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2015 - 05:53 AM

A piece of 1/2" pipe welded to a short strap that can be bolted to the top of the arms would serve better. Flange bearings have a cost attached to them that is considerably higher, and they will eventually seize up due to exposure and lack of use. 

 

The pins for my GT's FEL go through 1/2" pipe and now have considerable wear, but that loader has seen more use over a winter than the scoop will see over it's lifetime. The loader has over 2000 hours of service and the pins have never seen grease.

 

K.I.S.S. Keep it simple, sunshine.

The flange bearings I am looking at are less the $10 each. But, your post got me thinking!  :smilewink:  I have some 1-1/2" bar stock that is 5/8" thick. I could use that instead of the bearings. Could even drill and tap those for a grease zerk. I hate the sound of metal to metal! Or maybe it's best to keep grease out of that environment!

Doug, I can put some measurements in if you want. For a sleeve hitch, I would use a section of 2X2 square across the frame at the back of the bucket.


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