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The Scoop Tote Thread

jrco scoop tote scoop tote homemade scoop tote

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#16 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2015 - 09:27 AM

I had a 42" scoop tote that mounted to a sleeve hitch. It was great as a carryall box, and locked in the "dump" position for use as a scraper. It didnt "scoop" much of anything...maybe mulch. A gt simply does not have the weight to maintain traction when trying to scoop something in reverse. I loade mine down with weight and it was just a big struggle to scoop up sod in a pile i had. Scooping dirt was out of the question, and yes, front weight is needed to get up a hill unless in teverse.

I agree darn near worthless for scooping. Mine is 3pt and has removable teeth. Had it on a C195 Wheel Horse with loaded tires,wheel weights and 4 JD weights on the front.   Gonna be for sale when I can get to it.


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#17 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2015 - 09:39 AM

Here is a link to the westendorf web site, they build loaders to fit any size tractor and the Auto Dumpmodels fits everything from GT up to 100 hp tractors

http://www.loaders.c...ct/default.aspx

 

And here is a link for Johnny Bucket http://www.johnnyproducts.com/

 

There are videos on y0uTube on both of these units.

Here is a video on the auto-dump, well made but the lighting sucks. https://www.youtube....h?v=wMG5IDJMYdQ

 

They will give a guy ideas. 


Edited by JD DANNELS, February 18, 2015 - 10:01 AM.

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#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2015 - 10:53 AM

I'll look things over and see what transpires. A FEL would be the best thing, but no way I'll have one unless it's given to me!



#19 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2015 - 11:36 AM

I'll look things over and see what transpires. A FEL would be the best thing, but no way I'll have one unless it's given to me!

Yes, I am pretty much in the same boat. What I really wanted was a skid loader. But have found is anything under $5 k is so used up it would take a grand or better to put it right. I am either going have to find a GT that I can build a loader for or buy another machine to do my mowing and build a loader for my JD 318. The big question is do I have the fabrication skills to build a loader and back ho?
I have a number of projects on this acreage that will require a digging machine.

Edited by JD DANNELS, February 18, 2015 - 11:38 AM.

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#20 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2015 - 08:57 PM

Those rear scoops were fairly popular here in the Midwest.  Usually a lot larger though for the large HP tractors.  Small ones are 6' and large ones are 8' wide.  They most certainly will not replace a loader but they don't cost near as much either.  They are loosing popularity with the quick attach loaders, grapples, large bale spears, etc. for the loaders.  My neighbor stack the 1500lb bale 4 high with his for the bale grinder.  Grinds about 30 bales a week.  They would be a neat tool on a small scale.  Would want the power lift though.


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#21 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2015 - 04:39 AM

After seeing the pics member gtscreg posted here, I did a little investigating about the scoop tote. Found they were built by a company named JRCO and came in several sizes with different attachments. I found pics of a brochure and assembled them into a PDF which I uploaded here. Needing something to keep me occupied, I have started drawing up plans for one of these. Mine will be similar, but different. They offered these in 3 widths, 32", 42", and 50". There were 4 models, a 200 (32"), a 250 (42"), a 251 (42") (Cat 0 &1) and a 300 (50") (Cat 0 & 1). I have decided to make mine to the model 251 dimensions, only 50" wide. This will keep the weight down when the bucket is full (around 3.75 cu. ft.).

Here's a couple pics of what I have for the bucket. I chose the colors so you folks could have a better view of them.

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 02-17-15 at 03.48 PM.JPG

 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 02-17-15 at 03.50 PM.JPG

 

On the bottom view, I added extra wear strips of 1/4" flat. The Yellow sides are 1/8" (close to 10 gauge). I hope to use a 3/4" pin for it to pivot/dump.

 

This is not a build thread as yet. Just a place to put the drawings and get you folk's feed back/ thoughts on building one of these. If you would like to build one, read the PDF to see what you want yours to be like. Then add whatever comments about your tote. I may be able to help with plans/drawings, just give me time to do them.

Kenny, the 251 bucket weighs 100 lb and dirt weighs 90 lb per cu-ft. Most 3PH axle lugs are rated for a 400 lb implement on the 3PH. Between stretching the bucket to 50" and adding the wear strips, you are over the rating with a full bucket. The rating is there as much for when you go over bumps, as it is for static load.

 

The volume of a bucket is calculated as the struck volume, nothing above or beyond the sides, A heaped bucket may be as much as 30-40% more material.

 

I suggest that you forego the wear strips. They add weight without any other improvement. For a 50" wide bucket, I suggest a 1/2 x 4" cutting edge and let that serve as your wear strip. If the bucket is set up correctly, the bottom should have very limited contact with the ground, unlike a loader bucket with the curl function.


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#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2015 - 04:50 AM

Kenny, the 251 bucket weighs 100 lb and dirt weighs 90 lb per cu-ft. Most 3PH axle lugs are rated for a 400 lb implement on the 3PH. Between stretching the bucket to 50" and adding the wear strips, you are over the rating with a full bucket. The rating is there as much for when you go over bumps, as it is for static load.

 

The volume of a bucket is calculated as the struck volume, nothing above or beyond the sides, A heaped bucket may be as much as 30-40% more material.

 

I suggest that you forego the wear strips. They add weight without any other improvement. For a 50" wide bucket, I suggest a 1/2 x 4" cutting edge and let that serve as your wear strip. If the bucket is set up correctly, the bottom should have very limited contact with the ground, unlike a loader bucket with the curl function.

Thanks! Didn't even think about that!



#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2015 - 10:09 AM

Well, I have thought this over and will forego any more thoughts of building this at 50" wide. I'll work at a drawing for a 42" version for you folks. For my tractors, 42" is too narrow and useless.

 

If some one can get the info on how these were hinged, it will help me get the drawings finished.


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#24 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 07:06 AM

A short piece of pipe (3/4" - 1" long) welded through a hole in each side of the bucket will serve as a pivot point. Half inch schedule 40 pipe needs only a clean up pass with a 5/8" drill bit to allow either a 5/8" bolt or pin for the actual pivot. 

 

As to where the pivots are mounted, check the links that you posted and guesstimate from those pics. Something close will work.

 

For a rear scoop, 42" will work on your tractor unless you're carving a trail through snow. Most farm tractors that I've seen pics of that had rear scoops, the scoops were narrower than the tractors. It's different with a loader where you may want the width of an excavation to be a little wider than the tractor. You don't do excavations with a scoop that can't tilt down. It's primarily for moving piles of material from place to place.

 

For a 42" bucket, a 3/8" x 3" cutting edge will work.


Edited by TUDOR, February 20, 2015 - 07:13 AM.

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#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 09:04 AM

A short piece of pipe (3/4" - 1" long) welded through a hole in each side of the bucket will serve as a pivot point. Half inch schedule 40 pipe needs only a clean up pass with a 5/8" drill bit to allow either a 5/8" bolt or pin for the actual pivot. 

 

As to where the pivots are mounted, check the links that you posted and guesstimate from those pics. Something close will work.

 

For a rear scoop, 42" will work on your tractor unless you're carving a trail through snow. Most farm tractors that I've seen pics of that had rear scoops, the scoops were narrower than the tractors. It's different with a loader where you may want the width of an excavation to be a little wider than the tractor. You don't do excavations with a scoop that can't tilt down. It's primarily for moving piles of material from place to place.

 

For a 42" bucket, a 3/8" x 3" cutting edge will work.

There are many options for the pivot material. I just wonder what the originals used. I have 3/4" shaft that would be much stronger than 1/2 pipe. I had thought of using 3/4" 2-bolt flange bearings. That would allow separation of the bucket & framework if needed for repair, plus aiding in rotation.

As far as the capacity, a wider bucket could be used if the depth was shortened to keep weight down.

I also am wondering how the latch mechanism works. They (JRCO) state the bucket can be locked in the dump position to 'scrape' with. Wondering how they accomplish that?

Many things to think about before committing to a drawing.


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#26 gtcsreg OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 10:43 AM

Not sure on use of scoop in back, would make my back and neck sore real quick working backwards. Wouldn't be much more than a trailer then to me.  If you ever have Johnny Buckett Ideas, I think I would like one of those. YES, I have been looking at the threads on those here.


I should add this little bit to what you've said. I have one of these. I also have a ruptured disc in my neck (yes, have the expensive MRI to prove it) and I'm doing great with it. Two things have been very helpful for me. I have a seat with fold down arms and sit almost sideways and rest one arm on the armrest. Also, I have a steering wheel spinner knob. I am doing so well I'm almost to pull the trigger on selling the snow blower for this tractor. I am just as quick using this scoop clearing my 130 yard plus gravel driveway as with the snow blower. If the wind shifts with the snow blower I am covered in wet cold snow. With the blower I have to spend an hour or two after winter putting gravel from my yard to my drive. I've done a lot of dirt moving with scoop and it will fill a pothole in a jiffy. It's a very handy tote for anything you can get in it. It is tons easier to take on and off the tractor too. I'm sure their are other uses too. Aside from a mower, this is the greatest invention made for my tractor. I know an FEL does the same but couldn't afford, find, or make one of those. I guess what I'm saying, in a nice way, is if you haven't tried it, don't knock it. Thanks for all your work Kenny.

Reg

Edited by gtcsreg, February 20, 2015 - 11:05 AM.

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#27 gtcsreg OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 11:03 AM

There are many options for the pivot material. I just wonder what the originals used. I have 3/4" shaft that would be much stronger than 1/2 pipe. I had thought of using 3/4" 2-bolt flange bearings. That would allow separation of the bucket & framework if needed for repair, plus aiding in rotation.
As far as the capacity, a wider bucket could be used if the depth was shortened to keep weight down.
I also am wondering how the latch mechanism works. They (JRCO) state the bucket can be locked in the dump position to 'scrape' with. Wondering how they accomplish that?
Many things to think about before committing to a drawing.


Not great photos I'm afraid but these are the best I have right now. Here is a photo of the latch. A photo of the bucket in hopes you can blow it up to better see the hinge point. And also a little something my Dad did. He found the center of the bucket and drilled a hole in the lip. This hole has never had a negative impact on the scoop that I know of. It can be handy to hook up a little wagon or small see spreader on without taking the scoop off. I wouldn't want a bunch of weight to be on the connection point but it sure can save time and work.

Reg

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Edited by gtcsreg, February 20, 2015 - 11:04 AM.

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#28 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 11:14 AM

Reg, thanks for posting. I, too, have a challenge looking over my shoulders. I think one of these would be a big help moving material from one place to another. I have my box blade to make a loose pile with. I just hate having to shovel every thing into a trailer to move it. One of these would take the trailer out of the equation, even if you don't move as much at a time. That's just more seat time.

So there is just the one latch in the center? That's simple enough.

I looked at the second pic, but don't see the hinge point in there!


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#29 gtcsreg OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 11:21 AM

Reg, thanks for posting. I, too, have a challenge looking over my shoulders. I think one of these would be a big help moving material from one place to another. I have my box blade to make a loose pile with. I just hate having to shovel every thing into a trailer to move it. One of these would take the trailer out of the equation, even if you don't move as much at a time. That's just more seat time.
So there is just the one latch in the center? That's simple enough.
I looked at the second pic, but don't see the hinge point in there!
[/quote


I will try to remember to take a couple of close ups of the hinge point next time I go to the shed.

Reg



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#30 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2015 - 02:47 PM

Kenny, I have a Cat 0 3pt version one on my GT.  You are more than welcome to come by and take measurements if you want.


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