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Best way to clean a carb


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#16 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2015 - 11:48 PM

just got a can of Gunk's latest carb dip yesterday, It don't smell mike their "old stuff" but it don't seem to do much either.  I wasn't thinking Wal Mart for the Berryman's, forgot about them. The farm store that I got the Gunk from used to sell the Berrymans;   the last can of "that" stuff I got from Useless Zone a couple years ago, seems they charged me ~$25.

Gonna have to go see my old buddy at Napa and see if they still got the 2-ish gallon bucket of their old "Mac's" brand  That stuff USED to be the best....  Gunk Hydro Seal used to be pretty close too/   this can I got yesterday says on its side,  to get that for "bigger" jobs, but I do not see it sold anywhere any more.

last summer there was a post herre about "car-b-que"/  that is boiling them out with lemon juice.  I have done a few that way since seeing that post, with mixed results.  DO NOT do this in the house on the kitchen stove, it puts off a nasty stench when it starts to boil.

I picked up a brand new propane powered camp stove at a garage sale a year ago (Chinese brand, Ozark Trail if I remember right) that I paid a whole $3 for. It takes the throw a way screw on bottles, one lasts for quite a few carbs. 

The 1st one I did, I did on one of my old Coleman stoves,  but if you let it boil over it gets a thick heavy black crusty coating on everything. So I don't feel bad sacrificing that $3 China made stove for the purpose.

 

I have done 4-5 in the current batch of lemon juice, (not at once, LOL) you can use anywhere from 50-50  mix with water, to straight lemon juice, depending on How "bad" your carb is.  I use a 3 lb coffee can to soak them in. Usually I top off with water as it boils off but this last time, I poured in a whole fresh quart of juice, I had 2 nasty ones in there at that time, one from an 8HP Kohler (unsure of number) and the #30; the 8HP one was the worst of the 2; after roughly 40 mins in the boiling juice, it made a pretty good dent in the varnish on the carb/ but barely touched the inside of that bowl which I put in there separately;  I soaked that 8HP one in the fresh vat of Gunk mentioned above/ as the 1st carb done in that new can of solvent, and it finished the cleanup on the carb quite nicely, but didn't touch the 1/16" thick layer in the bottom of the bowl or on the float.  deposits. I've done ~10 or 12 this way so far, since seeing that post.

I usually get 4-5 carbs out of 1 jar of lemon juice. It's cheap and sure don't seem to "hurt" anything....

I have "just" that bowl in the Gunk right now after I scraped as much as I could out of it with a flat screw driver. Will look in on it tomorrow after I drop the Durango off at the glass shop for its new windshield.



#17 Appalachian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2015 - 08:29 AM

Pine Sol soak, then ultrasonic cleaner. I use guitar strings to clean the jets.

I also like the Berrymans gallon can for soaking.
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#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2015 - 09:08 AM

Many years ago I had a 5 gallon can of Gunk "Hydro Seal" carb/parts cleaner, and back then it WORKED like gangbusters.  Sadly EPA put their touch of death on the formula, and now it's almost useless IMO.


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#19 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2015 - 09:51 AM

I tried the pine sol on a Ford 8N carb, came pretty clean, enough for rebuild, but stil rusty looking. I would try vinegar next time as final l soak. If you can get an ultrasonic cleaner, that's the cat's meow.



#20 3v0 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2015 - 10:01 AM

Pine Sol soak, then ultrasonic cleaner. I use guitar strings to clean the jets.

I also like the Berrymans gallon can for soaking.

I wanted to get away from harsh solvents so I purchased this heated ultrasonic cleaner Oct 2013. 

Kendal Industrial Grade 160 Watts 2.5 Liters Digital Heated Ultrasonic Cleaner.

41Nk4NE9A8L._AA160_.jpg

Harbor freight has a similar unit but Kendal has a parts basket and the HF has a tray that sits on the bottom.  

 

For a greasy part I clean with tide the first few times.  Then I switch to dawn dish soap.  I have tried adding ammonia and it may clean faster but it stinks. The heat helps a lot and suggest anyone working with a non flammable cleaning solution give that a try.  

 

Pros:

I have cleaned 15+ carbs, some had not been run in decades.  They all worked when I was done.  I find myself doing less disassembly prior to cleaning.  I have not attempted to clean carbs with a lot of rust.  

 

It works for parts other than carbs.  Last week I was rebuilding a briggs starter motor and cleaned the end plate with the brushes.   

 

Cons:  

The heating cycle is crappy.  There is no thermostat.  Instead they limit how often you can hit the heat button.  The  heater quit working while it was in warranty. I got return authorization but never sent it in.  I heat the solution on a hot plate which works better for me because while I am cleaning with one batch of solution I can be heating the next.  You can't use water that is too hot because it will fry the electronics.

 

You can clean a carb start to finish in a lot less time but you have to be there to tend the cleaner.  It only runs for a few minutes at a time.

 

After cleaning some carbs the outside will have very dense non greasy dirt packed into spots.    Rub it off and run it again.


Edited by 3v0, February 16, 2015 - 10:02 AM.

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#21 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 09:17 PM

Here is what I use.

 

Darn-it...can't post photo.

 

NAPA Carb cleaner in a 1 gallon can with a basket.

 

OK, watch this clip.

https://www.youtube....h?v=VPRc0EV_F4g

 

just got a fresh bucket of this MAC'S stuff today from NAPA, haven't used it yet.  I know that the 1 gallon (3 quarts really) GUNK carb dip isn't near as good as it used to be; on the side of that one it says that for lager carbs to get the 2 gallon "hydro seal"    back in the day I'd use one of those a year (they do lose strength the more they get used)     I have not seen that available in more than a few years...

I'd like to have gotten the 5 gallon mac's  It is still available but for $130 I figured I'd spend $25 and try the smaller version 1st to see how bad the EPA loused this stuff up as compared to back in the day.   I do still have a couple of carbureted cars and trucks, the 1 gallon isn't big enough to do any part of a 4 barrel in.... I used to be able to do the 2 barrels  like what is on my 78 Fury one part at a time in the 1 gallon  cans but that meant having to wait for 3 soaks.



#22 JBRamsey ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 08:46 AM

To start I use a can of cheap spray carb cleaner to blow the big stuff away before disassembly. Then I soak it in a gallon can of good carb cleaner from NAPA. Stubborn spots get hit with a toothbrush and resoaked. I use a cheap scotchbrite pad on the bowl. If I fold it around my fingers I can get inside the bowl well. After it's done, I hit all of the passages with the nozzle from the spray carb cleaner. I wear safety glasses when spraying. It's inevitable that you will get some spray back on you.

I haven't tried lemon juice, primarily because I have a gallon of cleaner. A gallon lasts a long time. I've had mine well over ten years. I believe if I did lemon juice I would use a cheap crockpot to heat it in the garage.

I don't use wire wheels on small soft parts for fear of damage or getting them caught and thrown across the shop.

That's what I do. I don't know if it's the best way to clean a carb, but it works for me.

Good luck.

#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2015 - 11:12 AM

To those of you using vinegar, are you using white vinegar or the cider vinegar?






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