how to test 3 prong regulator on kholer k301 motor
Posted February 15, 2015 - 11:00 AM
Posted February 15, 2015 - 11:33 AM
Check the Manual which you can download for free in our Manuals Section. There is also a thread on regulators. Good Luck, Rick
Thanks Kenny. I was in the middle of typing this when a friend called needing help. The dipstick on his snowblower had detached from the cap and fallen in. Its now out and I have a used one for him.
Edited by boyscout862, February 15, 2015 - 11:36 AM.
- KennyP said thank you
Posted February 15, 2015 - 12:16 PM
thanks for the manual but im looking on how to test a 3 prong regulator all ready off wanted to test it with a digital meter to see if it;s bad it;s not charging on the motor anyone know on how to test it off the motor
Posted February 15, 2015 - 12:18 PM
This is a great place for all your GT needs!
Posted February 15, 2015 - 12:21 PM
Blain, I sent you a private message with a website. Your answers will be in it.
Posted February 15, 2015 - 12:47 PM
Blain....You can test the output from the engine....This will help determine if it is the stator OR the regulator that is bad.
Posted February 15, 2015 - 01:23 PM
so if it reads 24 to 26 thats a good stator and regulator is gone right.do i set the meter on the 200 dc volts to check it im not up to date on these
Posted February 15, 2015 - 01:28 PM
The stator voltage is AC, not DC. The regulator converts it to DC.
Posted February 15, 2015 - 01:46 PM
As Kenny stated, while running you can test with AC across the two charge leads. Put meter on AC at 200 then put leads one on each charge wires. The other lead, most likely center one, is usually a ground/kill wire for the ignition. I think Kohler tests good at 26-28+ volts
The regulator should put out 12.5-14.4 volts at battery.
Posted February 15, 2015 - 02:19 PM
The center one is the 12volt output. OR not always in center, but offset some. Not sure you can test from it to ground w/out damage or not? Most times check for 14.5 or so at battery when running fast. Batt shoud read 12 or so first, before you start the tractor. Many times nothing is wrong with reg, cept the grounding of it's body to frame or engine. Spots get rusty and no ground then. I would try mounting with NEW screws and nuts AND, I like to use Star washers with teeth on them between the regulator and the metal body it is mounted to. The teeth on washers, bite into the metal to get good contact. Right thru the paint if needed even.
Posted February 15, 2015 - 02:29 PM
yah i cleaned it good to body the battery is showing only 11 to 12 when running when i put volt meter on it so i;ll try putting the volt meter again on it when running on my regulator is 3 prongs so put black and red from meter on the both ac ones on regulartor and check for 24 to 26 volts right and if i got that then it;s proably the regulator right theres also a red wire from key switch running to nothing when i got it i think by diagram it goes to silnoind .any clue guys
Posted February 15, 2015 - 04:45 PM
That red wire may be the problem.
These regulators must see some battery voltage before they can regulate current.
Install regulator back on the tractor. Turn the key ON but the engine NOT running. Measure the voltage across the battery posts and record it. Now move the red lead to the regulator 12V DC terminal. You should have the same reading and if not fix it so it does.
This test checks the path the charge current takes to get to the battery.
- blain said thank you
Posted February 17, 2015 - 06:11 PM
thanks for all the help guys with the regulator it was the red wire from the key switch needed to be hooked up to the b on the regulator thanks again
- KennyP said thank you