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CC 1861 project


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#1 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2015 - 03:55 PM

OK my wife didnt kill me, or take away my computer privileges so heres pics and update on the 1861 I picked up the other day.   As stated in other thread tractor is rough, rusty, and primered.  Missing side panels and I had a DOH!!!!! dadgum it!!!  moment and busted the hood.......grrrrrrrrrr!!!

 

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After airing up one of the front tires and letting it run a little bit looked at the hour meter and it hadn't moved from 172.3 hmmmmmmmm says I.  checked wiring and PO had put on a electric fuel pump and I think he wired hot wire for it to hour meter and had pulled ground wire loose from meter so hooked it up and started tractor again and hour meter still not working.......not sure if electric pump is messing it up or what or if it quit working many moons ago.  But motor runs strong and no smoke(yet anyway and dont want to jinx myself).

 

Pulled deck and heres what it looks like

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Deck seems very solid did not see any bad rust just a bunch of clippings still under deck, had new blades(need sharpening), bearings are rough on all 3 spindles and on idler pulley,  Major issue is the center drive pully spindle is loose in housing hoping  spindle shaft is not damaged.

 

think this one is gonna be a keeper love the big deck but concerned about runnig it without the hood and side panels but it is a work in progress with time and money being big factors also.  Anyway for $200 I think I got a decent buy..............


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#2 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2015 - 06:41 PM

Looks like well-built tractor, but no good upkeep I would say. Kind of a Run it till it stops owner.   PO tried to paint while still together I guess, usually don't work or look nice. I don't think any problem with running w/out hood, should be cooler then, just not as quiet maybe?  Clean that deck, stuff like that holds water and makes rust under it. I would pull the guards off too and clean good around those pulleys. Maybe just some oil or grease in spindles is gonna be good. Grease fittings on top or under by blades?  Many have sealed bearings and no lubing to do, not sure what you might have. Some newer decks have spindles and holders all in one piece to replace, not individual parts like in past. You'll have to check with your dealer on that. Looks like good potential, just go over all the adjustments and such and clean up. Looks like very good buy for the money!!


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#3 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2015 - 11:02 PM

I think you did a-ok on that tractor!!  It doesn't look as bad as I thought it might be when you originally posted.

 

I would try to find a hood and side panels for it.  It wouldn't be the end of the world without them, but if you can find a cheap set it will help your engine run cooler, not hotter.  The whole idea is making a "wind tunnel" to keep the engine cool.  Like I say, not the end of the world, but it would help you and it would make your tractor look a lot happier!

 

Ben W.


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#4 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2015 - 06:50 AM

I'm always wonder at the way people take care of their stuff , my son included , that tractor cost new more then the used cars I bought my son , daugther myself together and it looks like the po treated like a throw away item ! Good buy for you though
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#5 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2015 - 08:33 AM

$200 was a good buy! Congrats!
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#6 EricR OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2015 - 12:37 PM

I agree, I would have bought it for 200. Make sure there are no mouse nest's anywhere as that would cause a lot of problems later. It will run hotter with no side shields and hood as Ben said, it needs to push the air from the back to the front to keep it cooler. And for the deck they can be rebuilt, I have done the bearings and seals on my 54incher, congrats on the work in progress!!!


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#7 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2015 - 04:14 PM

I agree, I would have bought it for 200. Make sure there are no mouse nest's anywhere as that would cause a lot of problems later. It will run hotter with no side shields and hood as Ben said, it needs to push the air from the back to the front to keep it cooler. And for the deck they can be rebuilt, I have done the bearings and seals on my 54incher, congrats on the work in progress!!!

Yep, spindles can be rebuilt and they use Timken bearings/races/seals. Spindle housings are cast aluminum. You will find around 14 grease zerks on the deck alone. Outer spindle assemblies are the same from GT42, 44, 46, 48 & 54 (same part #'s). You will even find a anti-scalp roller under the deck at the rear. And like EricR stated find the side panels and a hood to help in the cooling. The wire harness is complex compared to the later 82 series for sure. For $200 you got a decent deal. 


Edited by BNK, February 17, 2015 - 04:33 PM.

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#8 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2015 - 04:31 PM

I currently mow with a 1440 manual lift 14 hp B&S Vangard. Got a GT 48 deck under it. I parted several GT's or Cyclops and kept needed parts to include deck parts. You will love the ride and steering is sharp.

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#9 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2015 - 12:42 PM

Got to tinker with it a little this morning, weather has been brutal here the last 2/3 weeks and Im an outdoor mechanic(outdoors  definitly, the  mechanic part,,,,,uhhh maybe  LOL).

 

Changed the oil, not sure if it had ever been changed(well at least once cause it had a JD filter on it).  and a new filter. 

 

Been keeping an eye on fleabay for hood and side panels but so far they are too pricey, also notice today that the grill is cracked broken near the mounting bolts on the left side so that is gonna be on the list too......

 

Wondering if possibly could get different hood/side panels to get by with until I could find the correct ones???  I know the 1440,1640, etc interchange but wondering if something else could be "engineered to fit" temporarliy????

 

Thanks again

JD214



#10 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 04:11 AM

On one of the Cub forums I read ( seen pix too) that a user used 82 series sheet metal for the engine compartment. I don't remember what was done to the dash to accept the hood...maybe nothing? Big down fall when CCC went to the composite material, their selling point was "no rust". I used Kitty Hair automotive fiberglass to repair my nose to include the head light mount or posts (CCC changed designs of the light mounting in 1995 I think).  


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#11 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 11:20 AM

Small update, got the center spindle shaft and bearings(or what was left of them LOL) out of the housing.  Just removed the blade and knocked the spindle out from the bottom.  When replacing the bearings(do they come with the outer race to go in the housing??) do i just tighten the blade to set the bearings??

 

Also picked up a hood and grill from a 1325/1330 gonna try to mod it to work until i can run across the correct hood, grill and side panels.

 

Thanks for the info!!!!!!!!!!

 

JD214



#12 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2015 - 11:18 AM

Nice find. I have a similar "project" 1861 that followed me home a while back. Several posts and pictures on here about it. IT is still in the "work in progress" stage...

 

The hood/side panels on these were problem areas - as you have noted. Most of the time they are broke/missing. You see them occasionally for sale, but not that often.....

 

Panels from any of the Cyclops models will work, but they all had the same issues. There was a thread on here a while back that listed the models that you could use for donors. Mine is missing one side (cant remember which one - the tinwork [plastic-work?!?!?] is sitting somewhere waiting parts. And my other pieces have cracks and broken tabs on them. I actually thought about converting a metal hood/side panels (I have a set from a Scotts mower that look about the same size....) instead of  messing with the plastic.

 

Mine has "much better" paint than yours, well, as long as you ignore the brush marks and bristles stuck in the paint from the cheap brush job that the PO did to make it "purdy"! If it ever gets to the running stage, I will have to sand and repaint the pan!

 

Heres a picture of mine as it sat in the corner for a while..... note the pile of broken plastic.....

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These have the aluminum rear end as opposed to the steel transaxle housing, but are plenty tough for NORMAL use!


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#13 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 09:23 AM

Thanks for the info!!

 

Hood update: could not get the grill from the 1325 to work but was able to make the hood work with the original grill due to PO's mod to the grill.  Have a gap between grill and hood with sheet metal in the gap, mounted hinges to the sheetmetal and they new hood and it looks as good as the rest of the tractor  ROTFLOL

 

Deck update:  tore into center spindle since it was the worst, discovered that at some point it had been taken apart(possibly rebuilt) add when re-assembled the center spacer for the bearings was left out.  This caused the wobble and also ruined the aluminum housing, so im checking Fleabay for a housing right now.  But may have to go the dealer route......so its gonna set a while as I dont have the money right now.......

 

But I will get back to it asap!!!






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