The pics actually make tractor look worse than it is. Hood is just unbolted so that dont help either. The grille is with it just not in place. Only thing I could tell it was missing was battery cover which I can make. If I can get it running and driving well I might have a new plow tractor!
Fingers crossed maybe by next weekend I'll have her going! I think on the 1450 they had a lever to lock the differential if you started slipping thus driving both wheels to get out. Anybody know this for sure? I just read about it in the White Town and Country brochure. Guy said hydro and everything worked good 3 years ago when parked. Said only problem was intermittant spark since it's breakerless it might ed up getting converted to points if its anything bad but first I'll start by changing the spark plug.
I have a '70 Jake 1450 and have not seen anything about a differential lock. I just figured out how the breakerless ignition works and I love it. Make sure the stator is working like it should. There is a 3rd wire off it to run the ignition.
I have a '70 Jake 1450 and have not seen anything about a differential lock. I just figured out how the breakerless ignition works and I love it. Make sure the stator is working like it should. There is a 3rd wire off it to run the ignition.
I have a '70 Jake 1450 and have not seen anything about a differential lock. I just figured out how the breakerless ignition works and I love it. Make sure the stator is working like it should. There is a 3rd wire off it to run the ignition.
I don't know the answer to that question as I haven't looked. One thing I found with mine was when I removed the flywheel, the gap for the trigger was off. That may be an issue. Check the stator as you would for all others, but the output voltage will be lower! This is the thread I figured this all out in.
I asked my local machinist who has lots of experience with Kohler engines this same question a few weeks ago. He said that all cams have the lobe to run the breaker push-rod. The block should already be drilled and tapped for the points cover, and there is usually a plug that can be popped out for the push-rod. Otherwise it may need to be drilled out. He also recommended to use a steel, not aluminum, push-rod since the aluminum tends to wear harder on the cam lobe.
I have a Ford 140 and a White 114. The Ford had already been converted when I got it, someone had attempted it on the White. If you convert it to points, you will need to change the ignition switch also so there is a constant power lead to the coil in on/start position. The switch is the same as John Deere part AM103286. Cheapest I found was on ebay for $10.40, free shipping.
I forgot to look at my K321S yesterday to see if there is any provision to add the points. I know it would be hard to adjust them with the engine sitting sideways in there.
I forgot to look at my K321S yesterday to see if there is any provision to add the points. I know it would be hard to adjust them with the engine sitting sideways in there.
It is pretty tight. The belt guard needs to come off for sure, set the parking brake to keep the idler pulley out of the way and then you can somewhat get to it.
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