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#1 Simpleton OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 07:52 AM

I joined the site a couple days ago to get some help on my Bolens 1054. After getting the issue diagnosed by the Gurus on the Bolens forum, I have had a little time to check out the rest of the site. A lot of really good info and links all over the place. The photo gallery has re-kindled my interest in getting a project under way.

 

A couple years ago I lucked into an old classic,(in my opinion). I saw a little Simplicity sitting all forlorn looking along side the road, in someones yard, with a dilapidated cardboard For Sale sign beside it. As things sometimes go, I put off stopping in because I figured they'd want more than I could afford. Finally I realized the lady of the house worked at the huge hardware store we have here in Hartville. So, when I was checking out one day I asked her how much they were asking for that old junky tractor sitting, cluttering up her nice yard. She said, "Give me $35 and you can have that old thing". Seems her hubby had burned up the motor and tore it down with the thought of rebuilding it. Then it sat of r a couple years.

 

I got his phone number from her and stopped in to get a closer look at it. The deck was in good shape and the transmission seemed tight shifting through all the gears. I figured for $35 I couldn't lose. I brought her home with high expectations that my 11 year old son would have interest in helping me restore it. He likes the idea of driving it around, but has no interest in mowing or helping me restore it. So, its been a year and a half and there it sits.

 

In the mean time, I sold a crappy ATV I had and bought the Bolens. After I got it home I found a few flaws that I hadn't seen and realized I over paid for it. I fixed up a couple things and got her to where she would run and function. Then I got a call from a guy who had a 7114 with the deck and snow blade. He had been asking $350 for it and it had a few issues. He was desperate for some cash and said he'd take $200, I didn't turn him down.

 

So with those two running I just haven't felt interested in getting into the Broadmore. After seeing all the photos of some of the amazing tractors on here I feel like tackling it now.

 

So, I have this 728 Broadmore with all good sheet metal, decent tires that all hold air, the engine is in pieces in a box, a mower deck in a little rusty but otherwise good condition. I found another motor that runs but it's a 10 horse.

 

Now the questions:

 

1. How to strip the old paint and surface rust without access to a sand blaster?

 

2. Do I rebuild the old engine or use the 10 horse I found? (I don't have much experience with this kind of thing, nor do I have the proper tools, although I have a brother that probably does.)

 

3. Many more questions to come I'm sure :smilewink:

 

4. I know, I know, you want pictures. I'll try to do that today.


Edited by Simpleton, February 05, 2015 - 07:54 AM.

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#2 HANKG OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 08:44 AM

You could sand it by hand but that gets old quick paint stripper makes a miserable mess, soda blasting is quick but not cheap but does the best job. Keep in mind that you will have to ready it for primer immediately after or the rust will return. If the engine doesn't have a gaping hole in it I would rebuild it because it was specified for that tractor by the factory. Our sponsors have whatever parts you may need and are knowledgeable.
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#3 Little Irish Men OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 08:59 AM

:ditto: :ditto: :ditto:



#4 cpg OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 09:21 AM

1. For removing all the really nasty paint, rust, and whatever else I use my 4.5 inch angle grinder and gator grit pads. If it is really nasty you can use a medium pad and then on sheet metal use a fine grit pad and just use a light touch and keep moving to avoid building heat. I have gotten great results as it removes all the nasty stuff on these old tractors easily but will leave a nice polished metal surface. It will take a little bit of touch up to feather in spots to prep for priming but its saves a lot of time. Just get a mask and some ventilation as the high speed of the grinder makes A LOT of dust.

 

2. I would get the engine apart and salvage it if you can. You should be able to get a rebuild kit pretty reasonably and if you can get a torque wrench and ring compressor you should be able to rebuild it; they are pretty simple. That way you know it will fit nice without modification and be original to the tractor.

 

You will always run into questions with a restoration. Luckily there is a crazy amount of knowledge on this site. Ask away and keep us updated with progress.


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#5 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 09:36 AM

Welcome to GTtalk glad to have you part of the family. Already go some good info. Once you grind the rust away you will have pitting. Sometimes painting over gives character. If not the red spot putty in a tube works great for the minor stuff & the bondo type stuff for the critical areas. I would use a good primer to prevent rust coming back from the areas you couldn't grind off. I have used Rustoleum's self etching primer on two tractors with good results. I would also agree rebuild what you have if possible. Keep us up to date.
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#6 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 09:59 AM

One thing with that Broadmoor is that it articulates in the center. Very few were properly lubricated and the rest have siezed. I had one for my son to use when he was little but it got stuck all the time because of the frozen suspension. Look in to it before you do any thing else. A very experienced friend told me the fastest and easiest way is to  cut  the connection frame and then reweld after it is freed up. Have you downloaded the manual yet? Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, February 05, 2015 - 09:59 AM.

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#7 Simpleton OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 11:00 AM

One thing with that Broadmoor is that it articulates in the center. Very few were properly lubricated and the rest have siezed. I had one for my son to use when he was little but it got stuck all the time because of the frozen suspension. Look in to it before you do any thing else. A very experienced friend told me the fastest and easiest way is to  cut  the connection frame and then reweld after it is freed up. Have you downloaded the manual yet? Good Luck, Rick

Thank you Rick. I just went out and checked it out. I lifted up on the left rear and it moves freely. I'll bet that little tractor does a real nice job mowing, with that feature.


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#8 Simpleton OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 11:06 AM

I'm going to try posting a couple photos from my phone

post-67116-14231537166256.jpg

Rear view

post-67116-14231538285244.jpg

Deck

post-67116-1423155008573.jpg


Edited by KennyP, February 05, 2015 - 01:40 PM.

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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 01:43 PM

I got your pics resized for you. TapaTalk does not let the forum software do this. We have lots of pics come through that way or they are sideways.


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#10 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 04:24 PM

I'm going to try posting a couple photos from my phone

attachicon.gifpost-67116-14231537166256.jpg

Rear view

attachicon.gifpost-67116-14231538285244.jpg

Deck

attachicon.gifpost-67116-1423155008573.jpg

very nice original paint. I'd just put in the engine and go. They're only original once.


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#11 Simpleton OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 04:30 PM

OK. Great. Thanks Kenny. I'm Kenny also.
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#12 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 07:09 PM

Kenny, welcome to the forum!

 

I would try to rebuild the original engine.  They are much hardier than what you can buy today.  If you tell me an engine model number I can get a rough estimate of a quote for parts to fix it.

 

Ben W.


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#13 Simpleton OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 09:31 PM

Thanks, Ben.

 

The engine is a Briggs model# 191701.

 

 

Kenny



#14 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 10:44 PM

Depending on the definition of burned up, if all it needs is a good rebuild, you can get a gasket set, piston, rings, and a new rod for $85 + shipping.  If you need to turn the crank to .020 under, that rod is available for $10 extra.  A .010 over piston is available, too, for no price difference off the original.

 

Ben W.


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#15 ACB112Guy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 10:45 PM

VintageIron is right. that old original paint is pretty clean, id keep as is. nice find. 35 bucks! here in NY, that would be 350+ all day. at least when im looking to buy they are. haha 


Edited by ACB112Guy, February 05, 2015 - 10:46 PM.

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