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Linear Actuator


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#1 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2015 - 01:16 PM

So the taxes are out and I'm waiting for the return. I'm figuring my budget for my JD 112 build. Want to hit parts while the cash is still in hand. I have decided I want to build my own sleeve hitch with a linear activator to lift it. This brings me to my question. How much travel do I need and how much lifting capacity. Bearing in mind I hope to make a snow blade eventually and use the same actuator on it. I'm eyeing a 4" actuator with 300 lbs. lifting capacity that fits my budget. What your opinion.

Enough lift?

Enough length? 

Thanks in advance for you help.



#2 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2015 - 06:31 PM

I am guessing that many gt's have at least 1000 lbs with a hydraulic cylinder and around a 6 inches of stroke.It will make a difference on where you mount it on how much lifting power and travel it will have.The price sure does go up with more power and stroke.I picked up a few used one on Ebay from a John Deere aerator for $80 each several years ago and they had better than 6 inches of stroke and lifted well over 1000 lbs.You will not be very happy if you are under powered or not enough travel.


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2015 - 06:43 PM

I'm installing one on my Jake. The original one was non-existent when I got the tractor. This one is 4" stroke, but don't know much else about it.


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#4 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2015 - 05:58 AM

Most GT implement cylinders are 2x4 and can exert 1900 to 3100 lb of force depending on which direction they are lifting, either extending or retracting.

 

Geometry has as much to do with required force as the weight of the implement lifted. The further from the main portion of the weight the actuator is applied, the shorter it can be, but more force is required.

 

eg. A 100 lb blade 16" from the pivot will require an actuator with a 3" stroke on a 4" lever to lift it 12" with over 400 lb of force.

 

The same blade with the actuator lifting right behind it will need to have a 12" stroke and something over 100 lb of force.

 

Hydraulic cylinders routinely operate on the wrong end of 4 or 5:1 levers with implements in the 200-400 lb weight category.


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#5 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2015 - 07:55 AM

I think I remember being told more than once that you want at least 600 (go one size up from that, because they over rate them).
But if it can be in the budget, I would go with what TUDOR said. When it comes to fluid systems, he has crunched the numbers and that kinda what you're replicating, just without the fluid.
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#6 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2015 - 12:36 PM

Thanks for all the input. Going to look at more actuators and see what I can come up with.



#7 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2015 - 04:57 PM

I think I remember being told more than once that you want at least 600 (go one size up from that, because they over rate them).
But if it can be in the budget, I would go with what TUDOR said. When it comes to fluid systems, he has crunched the numbers and that kinda what you're replicating, just without the fluid.

With electric actuators, it is wise to go with the next stronger unit than you think is necessary. It may operate a bit slower, but it won't draw as much current. It will also allow you to make weight adding mods to the implement without overloading an actuator that is just able to do the task in the first place.


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#8 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2015 - 03:53 AM

I used a Duff Norton 500 lb 6" stroke on my 149 CC front lift project. Been waiting for yrs to find a donor dual stick, dual spool set up from a Quietline CC so until then I came up with this. I fabricated the mounting brkt and lift arm brkt to work for a dozier blade, tractor has hyd lift for the rear already. The CC blade I used has a float built in so less fear of damage to the actuator in non trip mode. Also used a 30 amp spring loaded long toggle switch from Meyer with a 20 amp fuse, a china made switch failed on me after a few hrs of use. My first concern was: would the actuator pick up the blade? Is it's design built for pushing not for pulling? I have been using it for 2 yrs now on/off. Easy removal too, unplug the harness and remove two pins. Let us know how your project is doing?!  

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