Well, I picked up a Snapper LT16 this week with a good running B&S 16 hp twin, or so the dealer said. The machine had belonged to one of his customers who had him go through the engine--tune up , oil change, new filters, new belts, etc. then never used it. She sold it back to him cheap 2 years ago and he wanted to get it off his lot.
He only wanted $200 for everything... tractor with baggers, engine, etc. Good price for the engine alone if it's in good shape.
Here it is on my truck getting ready to leave the dealer.
I got it home, cleaned the leaves out of the fins and checked the oil... a little dark, but not bad.
I got more concerned when I pulled the aircleaner--
One of the crankcase vent lines is hooked to a hole OUTSIDE the air filter... this left a hole INSIDE the air filter open to the elements... the top of the carb, and the underside of the inner "lid" were covered with dirt... this doesn't look good
I cleaned everything off as well as I could, then took the top off the carb--inside looked good, no major deposits. I blew carb cleaner through all the jets, holes, etc., including the inlet to the pulse fuel pump.
I then pulled the plugs, shot some WD40 inside the sparkplug hole and cranked it several revolutions... everything seems to be normal...put the plugs back in... put fresh gas in the empty tank...squirted some carb cleaner down the carb and cranked it... she roared to life, but died in a few seconds.
I tried this several times, with the same results, so I pulled the fuel pump off and put a new one on... I didn't take the carb off the manifold, so to keep all the parts of the pump together I made some guide "pins" form some heavy wire I have... I bent one end over and threaded them through the cover, gaskets, center block, diaphragm, and into the screw holes.
The 2 springs in the check valve are so small I can hardly pick them up because I can't feel them very well. I put a small amount of grease on them to hold them in place, put the diaphragm spring in, and pushed it against side of the carb. Had the missus hold it there while I removed a guide pin and lightly snugged one screw, then removed the other pins and did the same for the other two.
Tried to start it again... it ran for about 15 seconds, then started acting fuel starved...??? not sure why so I pulled top off the carb, disconnected the plug wires and cranked it.. plenty of fuel coming through the part that connects to the float needle valve.
Inverted the top of the carb... the float should be parallel with the sealing surface of the carb, but it's sitting too low... I finally found the culprit... the neoprene tip of the needle valve had swelled so much it shut off before the bowl was even half full. I had just bought a carb kit, so a new needle valve fixed that situation.
I put the carb back together... primed it a little with carb cleaner, and fired it up... after the second try it started and stayed running .....YES!!!!!
There are only two flies in the ointment now, though... 1: the engine stalls when I try to engage the electric clutch... probably a frozen idler on the mule drive... 2. The engine doesn't shut off when I shut the key off. I had to ground the coil lead to the fan shroud to kill it... Must be a bum switch.
Anyway, I now have a good running engine I can graft into the Ariens GT19 and put it through it's paces... then I will have to decide which diesel engine to put into it... the 20 hp Ruggerini RD200, or the 23? hp MItsi L3E.... ahhh, decisions, decisions!!