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Briggs on My BCS Died and Won't Start


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2015 - 07:24 PM

Used the BCS with the snow thrower this morning for about 2 hours.  Ran good and had no problem.  Went out this afternoon to clear a little more snow off a feeding floor.  It was a little stubborn but fried off.  I didn't run the best and had to keep the choke on part way.  Made about 2 passes and it was getting worse.  Was going to head back to the garage when it died.  Would not start for nothing.  The air filter is removed as it would plug and freeze blowing snow.  In 14° temperatures you don't move this machine very far without its own power.  All you can do is drag the wheels.  Now it is sitting, dead in the snow.  Will have to get the big tractor with the bucket to get it loaded and hauled to the garage to work on it.  First thing is going to be a carb kit.  Used as a tiller, blower and sickle bar mower so it has run a lot in the last 14 years and nothing has been done to it.  I should have worked on it last fall before winter set in.  Now I can do it after the trouble of hauling etc.  We live and learn - sometimes we just live.


Edited by chieffan, February 02, 2015 - 07:25 PM.


#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2015 - 07:36 PM

The winter months are always hardest on these machines and if you have a problem or weak point you will definitely find it in the winter.

I always am good for at least 1 major breakdown per winter even after you go problem free the whole summer and keep things maintained :wallbanging:

 

Hope its just a carb problem and when you clean it you'll be good to go!


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#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2015 - 08:00 PM

Just takes a little water to freeze in the fuel system to stop it in it's tracks.  Your temps surely would freeze water fast!


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#4 Lmiller3358 ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2015 - 08:29 PM

seems like a fuel or carb prob seeing you had to run it on partial choke,,, maybe water in the gas, frozen line or the float got out of whack ....


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#5 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2015 - 08:33 PM

Just takes a little water to freeze in the fuel system to stop it in it's tracks.  Your temps surely would freeze water fast!

No doubt about that. I'd also suggest a spark check/new plug as a possibiity. I've seen a plug just give up and they always seem to run with a richer mixture. The other quick check would be to make sure the carb hasn't vibrated loose.


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#6 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2015 - 09:29 PM

Hauled it to the shop with the big tractor and loader.  Took the carb off and found all kind of nasty stuff in there.  Slush, dirt, water, what have you..  This is a Japanese motor and the carb is a little different.  There is a brass jet screwed into the side of the tube  Cannot remove the the metering jet without removing the side jet. No way would it come out.  Will have to grind the end off inside the tube to allow the metering jet to come out.  Bypassed that operation as I blew air through ever way I could find.  Put it back together and on the machine.  Fired right off and ran great.  Next day I used it again to finish what I had started.  After running it for an hour or so I stopped it in front of the garage.  Moved some things around and an hour later it went to run it inside.  Give a pull on the starter cord and the machine followed me !  Locked up solid.  Literally drug it into the shop and let it set overnight.  Next morning i went after it - AGAIN.  Checked the oil fill and it was overfull and smelled like gas.  NOT GOOD ! Drained it out, took the recoil off and it was OK.  Put a socket and breaker bar on the crank shaft nut and forward it would not budge.  Rolled it backwards and gas ran out the oil drain.  Rolled it forward hard and gas puked out the carb.  OK, I have a cylinder full of fuel.  Carb came off again and found nothing in it.  Back together and slide it part way over the studs and hooked up the fuel line.  Turned fuel on and shortly gas was running out the carb.  Took it apart again and decided the needle was not seating in the seat.  Dig around in my parts drawer and found an new needle the same length.  Put it on and slide the carb back on the studs with fuel hooked up.  No fuel overflow.  Drained the carb a couple times to make sure it would seat each time.  All is good so far.  Put everything back together and let it set overnight with a paper towel under it to pick up any leaks.  Next morning all was good, it fired right off and ran great.  Parked it and turned the fuel valve off.  Got real lucky on that one.  A new needle left over from another carb rebuild that had two different needles in it saved the day.  A rebuild kit for this carb is $84.  Needle, seat and gaskets is $24.  I guess I cannot complain to loud as the motor was built in March of 91 and has been on this machine since that spring and nothing but one plug change.  Sure hope it is good for another 14 years.  I will be to old to follow it by then but one of the boys will have it, if any have the ambition to have a garden any more.


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#7 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2015 - 12:05 AM

Glad it is behaving. Lucky that you saved that needle.
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#8 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2015 - 12:36 AM

  Parked it and turned the fuel valve off.                                   

 

I have found that my engines have been less problematic by turning off the fuel valve while the engine is still running. .....When the engine starts to lean-out I close the choke as needed to keep the engine running until it finally runs the float bowl out of fuel.  ....The small amount of fuel left in the carb bowl usually evaporates before it can cause a problem, and there is nothing to leak out or into the crankcase.

 

Of course, I have to remember to turn the fuel valve back on BEFORE trying to start the engine.


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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2015 - 11:00 AM

I usually turn the fuel valve off when I am through with them, but not each time I turn them off.  Ever once in a while, like this morning, I forget to turn the fuel back on again.  Seems that on the Wisconsin if I try to start it with the fuel turned off, I have to squirt a shot of fuel in the plug hole before it will start again.  It will fire and run right off that way but won't start without that priming. 
They have a mind of their own and I am not about to change it.  Just need to remember !  I am also a firm believer in Sta-bail.  I use it all the time when I an not sure when the motor will be run again.  I do not run the carb dry,  With Sta-bail no need to.  I don;'t like the idea of choking an engine to kill it either.  If the kill tab is missing I make a new one out of an old hand saw blade.  Nice hard spring steel but have to soften it a little at the bends or it will snap off.  Recycling some more.  One saw blade will make a hundred kill tabs.


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