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Greetings from NorCal! (New Bolens Owner Here.)


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#46 HJR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2015 - 07:28 PM

I felt well enough to look at it today, I can see what happened with the clutch/brake. PO removed whatever attachment it had on it, probably a mow deck, and the bolts that held that one also hold the front plate the clutch pivots to in place. Since the bolts weren't there when I depressed the brake pedal instead of disengaging the clutch it just moved the assembly around. Clutch stayed on no matter where the pedal was.

 

At the same time all that part shifting left little torque left to apply the brake, which is past the pad and into the metal, so virtually no brake at all.

 

Got all those missing bolts in place now so the clutch works like it should and there's what brake I can get until I replace that pad. Also wired up the ignition switch properly.

 

At a standstill now until I can afford to replace the drag link and starterator.



#47 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2015 - 12:25 AM

Often, but not always, the draglink can be saved.  .....If it is not too far gone, try putting the ball back into its socket.  .....Use a center-punch to put indentations around the edge of the socket.  .....If done properly, this will close the socket enough to stay on the ball, and still allow it to pivot.

 

I have also repaired some draglinks by building up worn sockets by welding.


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#48 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2015 - 07:32 PM

As Bruce Dorsi stated you can probably repair the drag link using his methods.  Someone repaired the joints on one of my tractors by taking a short piece of 1/8" x 1" flat bar and cutting a slot just wide enough to let the groove in the ball fit in.  Then they slid the ball into the groove and welded the flat bar to the rod and drilled the end of the rod and put a grease fitting in it.  Been like that for the fourteen plus years I have had the tractor. I have attached a picture to give you an idea of what they did - just a suggestion.

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  • Stud Repair On Drag Link.jpg

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#49 HJR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2015 - 10:39 PM

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought of repairing it! That's a good idea, I'll pull it off and see what I can do! :thumbs:



#50 HJR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 08:54 PM

I built myself a starterator, but was only half successful. I dug around in my garage looking at old generators I've saved over the years, found one was a Delco. It didn't turn over very well on a bench test so I robbed the armature and rear plate off of it and put them in the Bolen's generator. It now spins well, starts up the engine fine, but doesn't charge. It's not the regulator because grounding the field does nothing, no charge whatsoever.

 

I took the drag link off and cleaned it up, I think I'll dig up some flat stock and see about reinforcing it as suggested above. If I'm successful I'll do the other side of the link as well, it's just as wore as the one that popped off. I figure if I overkill the repair I'll never have to address it again.

 

Does anyone have any pictures of how the choke cable is run through the engine bay and how it hooks up at the carb? I think I'm missing a bracket of some kind. The choke has the cam the cable hooks up to, but there's no where to secure the cable's housing so the cable can do its thing.

 

TIA! :thumbs:



#51 4500GUY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 10:29 PM

HJR,

 

Here are a couple of pics of the cable routing on a 1967 1050.  Hope it helps!

 

- Dave

 

 

 

 

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  • ENGINE - RIGHT SIDE.jpg
  • TOP VIEW - BATTERY BOX.jpg

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#52 HJR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 08:21 AM

HJR,

 

Here are a couple of pics of the cable routing on a 1967 1050.  Hope it helps!

 

- Dave

 

Excellent, thanks Dave! :thumbs:



#53 HJR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2015 - 09:21 PM

My first incident-free drive today! Fixed the draglink as suggested above, works fine.

It even charged for a minute until I kicked the RPMs up. All the gears and clutch work, PTO engages. Have a new brake lining on the way.

Throttle's kind of loose though, have to hold it out to use it all.



#54 HJR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 07:54 PM

I know have brakes! Thanks again Dr. Bolens! :thumbs:

 

And I stopped off at Tractor Supply today and picked up a battery for the Bolens. They have some pretty high cranking amp tractor batteries there, grabbed a 360. Ironically the brand is Husky. :smilewink:  So the little 190 battery went back in the Craftsman II.

 

I was able to notice an odd thing about my charging problem, I polarize the generator, start it up and it charges fine until I speed the RPMs up. Then it quits, I can repeat this process indefinitely. Somehow high RPMs causes it to lose the polarization.



#55 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 08:12 PM

I once had a problem with intermittent charging on my 1050 - I ended up taking the voltage regulator cover off and then starting up the tractor in a darker room - MAKE SURE YOU HAVE DOORS OPEN FOR VENTILATION!  As I sped the engine up I could see arcing at one of the solder connections inside where one of the wires was soldered onto one of the coils (you may also see arcing at the contact points which is normal) - turns out there was a cold solder joint - resoldered the connection and it worked OK - just a thought.


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#56 HJR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 08:23 PM

I once had a problem with intermittent charging on my 1050 - I ended up taking the voltage regulator cover off and then starting up the tractor in a darker room - MAKE SURE YOU HAVE DOORS OPEN FOR VENTILATION!  As I sped the engine up I could see arcing at one of the solder connections inside where one of the wires was soldered onto one of the coils (you may also see arcing at the contact points which is normal) - turns out there was a cold solder joint - resoldered the connection and it worked OK - just a thought.

 

That's an idea, considering the age + how much vibration is gets where it is. I'll check that out.

:thumbs:



#57 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2015 - 09:20 AM

Like mentioned above, I would inspect your regulator first.

The regulator is the component which regulates how much or how little voltage goes back to charge the battery. The springs and contacts do wear over time but can be cleaned and Adjusted


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