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212 added to the herd.


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#1 KenM OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2015 - 10:31 PM

After several years of not real hard searching.  I finally found a  212 for sale $250 obo 10 miles from my home.  Ad was listed in November.  No mention on ad that it had been sold.  So I called, and to my surprise.  Yep still for sale.   Went and looked at it owner said it didn't run just needed new coil and muffler.  Looked it over all body panels were there, tires in decent shape, minor rusting and no major dents that I could see.  Then something caught my eye at the back end.  It had JD rear wheel weights on it.  I think to my self "$200 in just wheel weights".  So even if I don't get it running and it turns out to be a junker I can still get my money back from those.  So I offer $200.  Next day rolls around and It is in my garage.  WHOO HOOO!  Lucked out there.

 

Ordered new coil, points and condensor as well.  Total of about $45, no biggie.  So I now have $245 in a running 1980 212.  Which by the way I have not installed points or condensor yet.  Since I got it running I ordered a new muffler and going to install the points this weekend when I get the chance.

 

No pics yet sorry.  Too windy and cold and got too dark to do much else on it tonight.  Maybe this weekend if the weather stays decent.


 

I also currently own a side tag 1968 110.  It has the front lift bar (the thick one, not the skinny one) and the lift assist spring.  For use with my 43 show blade.

 

 

Now comes my questions......

 

I know that the snow blade will work with the 212.  But....

 

1.  Will the front lift bar from the 110 fit the 212?  or does it use a different bar?

2.  Will the lift assist spring from the 110 work on the 212?  From the diagrams I found it looks different. So I don't think so.

 

I have not looked under the 212 yet to see if either are there.  Which I highly doubt they are.  I got lucky once doubt I could get that lucky.



#2 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2015 - 11:28 PM

1. the front lift bar does work on my 110, 212 or 214

 

2. the lift assist spring will work - but it is best to get a rock shaft from a 110 or 112 single fender model

    I have them on my 212 and 214 - and yes they do work

    I can not remember if I have to drill a hole in the frame to mount them - I did it many years ago


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#3 KenM OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 06:49 AM

Good to hear that the lift shaft will work. I have an extra rock shaft for my 110 with the extra ear for the spring. I may have to look into that a little further unless someone else knows for sure.

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 06:50 AM

Congrats on the new 212. 



#5 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 08:52 AM

Congrats on the new machine.  I think the 212 is about the best gear drive machine made with the k301 for power.  I spent many hours on a 210 and a 212 in the 80's and lived to tell about it.   :smilewink:


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#6 KenM OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2015 - 04:42 PM

As promised.  Here are some pics of it.....

 

IMG_20150131_1527061.jpg   IMG_20150131_1527381.jpg

 

IMG_20150131_1527271.jpg   IMG_20150131_1527491.jpg

 

IMG_20150131_1527211.jpg

 

Side panels are not on it yet.  They are still in the trunk of my car.  But they are there just not in the pics.

 

Needs new seat and muffler.  Muffler is on it's way though.  Headlight wiring needs fixed and most likely new switch but not sure have not tested it.


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#7 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2015 - 07:03 PM

Congrats!!!!



#8 KenM OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2015 - 06:57 PM

Got a couple more pics.  But this time of the ID tags on both the tractor and the deck.

 

Now I know for sure it is a 1980.  121901 serial.

 

IMG_20150202_1643211.jpg

 

Is there any way to ID the year of a mower deck?

 

IMG_20150202_164236~21.jpg

 

Decided while it is not snowing to go ahead and move it from outside, and into the garage to take a closer look at a few things.

 

 

Finally figured out if the headlights worked or not.  I couldnt get the light switch to work as it was frozen.  Got 2 of 3 bulbs to light up by jumpering the wire to the battery.  Couldn't get the middle socket out of the lense or I may of been able to get 3 of em going.   Man those sockets were in there extremely tight. Probably frozen as well.

 

It also seems that there is a little bit of wiring missing though.  The yellow wire coming from the switch is just dangling under the battery box.  And the yellow wire coming from the headlights is coiled up at the head lights.  If I streatch the wire from under the battery box it just barely reaches the wire for the headlights after I uncoiled it.  But it rests on top of the enging and I know that isn't correct.

 

Does anyone have any pics of how their headlight wiring is ran?


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