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Interesting Wear Points


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#1 FixItCharlie ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2015 - 10:12 PM

I have a Ford LGT frame that I may incorporate into a project some day. I have started tearing it down to individual parts & checking what needs repair. I have some of the ones that others have talked about like these.   1-15-4.jpg

1-15-5.jpg

 

One place I found a lot of wear is here. 1-15-2.jpg

This might help to identify these parts better. 1-15-1.jpg

This shows the worn part that I have never seen discussed before & if this had broken on a tractor it would be a major tear down to repair.

1-15-3.jpg

To lube this to prevent is not an easy place to get to. I am not sure if this is even listed in Lube Charts in the manuals. I know on my running tractor I am going to look at this a lot closer. This also found some wear at the place for attachment for the springs. 1-15-7.jpg

1-15-6.jpg

I feel with some welding & grinding that I can repair this, but hope with showing this here may help others on some other places to check for wear when working on their tractors.

 

Charlie

 

 


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#2 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2015 - 10:22 PM

  That's the beautiful thing about a mig welder w/ elongated holes. Put a piece of brass or copper behind it, fill the hole, cleanup w/ flap disc and redrill. Same w/ a worn pin, build up the worn spot and work back to shape w/ a file.

                                       JMHO,

                                                  Mike


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#3 T Guiles OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 12:08 AM

It seem strange with as well built as they are, they didn't put grease fittings in some of the major wear spots



#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 05:41 AM

Pivot points will always wear some. I have added zerks to some things.



#5 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 07:05 AM

I found the same wear on my LGT165 hydro linkage.

 

P1010136.JPG P1010137.JPG

 

And the other end of the rod had received the 10 cent fix by previous owner.

 

P1010138.JPG

 

I gave it a quick fix, as I needed it running. Some day I'll tear it right apart

and do it right.

 

P1010153.JPG

 

Kind of a design flaw, I think.


Edited by IamSherwood, January 30, 2015 - 07:06 AM.


#6 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 08:02 AM

Old Sears are bad too for wear points like that. The clutch/brake rod goes through the frame, they wear just like your pin in the first pic. I also found wear on the short rod the connects the main clutch rod and the idler pulley.

As stated, welded them up, ground them down, wahlah!


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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 09:09 AM

All have places the wear. And all the manufacturers can say is put a few drops of oil there every so many hours.


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#8 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 01:29 PM

All we can do is try to keep these areas greased. The thing I appreciate is most of our GT's are 40 years old & we still have metal to work with. Can you imagine ten years from now most newer Gt's won't exist & if so the stamped metal will be so gone it won't be repairable.

 

Here is one of my many worn parts but repairable, my PTO lever. Typical egg shaped hole.

ref30.jpg



#9 FixItCharlie ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2015 - 10:23 PM

I found the same wear on my LGT165 hydro linkage.

 

attachicon.gifP1010136.JPGattachicon.gifP1010137.JPG

 

And the other end of the rod had received the 10 cent fix by previous owner.

 

attachicon.gifP1010138.JPG

 

I gave it a quick fix, as I needed it running. Some day I'll tear it right apart

and do it right.

 

attachicon.gifP1010153.JPG

 

Kind of a design flaw, I think.

A suggestion for you to make this job easier. There is 3 Roll Pins in the brake shaft on the other side of tractor. Start putting penetrating oil early to even start doing it now. The Parking Brake / Brake actuator where one Roll Pin is located put penetrating in the area where the shaft goes through this. I end up put heat to this to get it removed.

 

In the service manual lubrication of this stuff is generalized with out mentioning all the contact areas. If I had not done a complete tear down I may have missed this until it had broken. With my luck it would happen where making any type of repair just to get it to the shop would be a pain.

 

Charlie



#10 FixItCharlie ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2015 - 10:13 PM

Looking at the linkage for the Hydrostatic Drive one end has a ball joint & this is showing some wear. A thought has came to me why not get 2 ball joints & a threaded rod to make a replacement for the rod that was used on this.

 

6058kp1l.png

 

http://www.mcmaster....6058k28/=w768ps

 

Does anyone find any problems in this a repair part for this.

 

1-15-1.jpg

 

Charlie



#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 03:36 AM

Sounds feasible to me, Charlie!


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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 07:13 AM

Being a non Ford owner (yet) I don't have a firm grasp on this linkage, but Wills last picture, it looks as if there are other flat bars on the vicinity that this piece moves near. Will any of them come in contact with the larger size of the ball joint or the stud bolt and nut?
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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 07:16 AM

Being a non Ford owner (yet) I don't have a firm rasp on this linkage, but Wills last picture, it looks as if there are other flat bars on the vicinity that this piece moves near. Will any of them come in contact with the larger size of the ball joint or the stud bolt and nut?

It's been a while since I looked under mine, but I think there is room if the stud doesn't stick out too far.


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#14 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 08:18 AM

I think I would still try to weld up the slotted hole. You might have a problem keeping the ball fitting tight and not trying to slide out in the slot.


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#15 FixItCharlie ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 10:57 AM

Thank you for all the replies. The ball joint is sized for 3/8 rod so I would think that is has got to be close to the same size as the one on the other end of the rod. Yes weld repair we be needed on the hole but then make the hole small enough to tap with threads so that the ball joint will just screw in to it. There is some other things that I need to order  McMaster-Carr so I will add some of these to the list. When I get parts like this in my hands I never know where else I may find a use for them.

 

Charlie


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