Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

O-scale train engine


  • Please log in to reply
78 replies to this topic

#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,173 Thanks
  • 1,724 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted January 29, 2015 - 09:08 PM

First, a little bit of history. .....

I've always liked building things and got into trains back in the early 70's when AHM came out with an O-scale plastic model of a Indiana Harbor Belt 0-8-0 switch engine, a model of the 4-6-0 "Casey Jones" engine and two early 4-4-0 western engines.
They made motorizing kits so you could run the engines on two rail track.

I bought one of the 0-8-0 model kits and built it up with the motorizing kit.
It was fun to build and run it around a section of track and I found that I wanted to build some more.
So I bought some more model kits and started putting them together to make other types of locomotives out of the kits.

This is the first one that I built into a 2-6-6-4 articulated locomotive.
The oil tender was built from the front of the 0-8-0 tender and a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe.
The little 0-4-0 switcher ( on the lower right ) was built with the parts that were left over.

Both of these engines are motorized and still run well.
My daughter ( who is 46 now ) was 4 then so I put a number-4 on the little switch engine and let her run it around the track.

2b%20-%20Copy_zpsctjjzoyr.jpg


This became a "winter hobby" and over the years, I built other locomotives out of those AHM kits and also got into building rail cars and other train equipment.
The blue engine on the top shelf and the black engine on the seconded shelf are built from the AHM model kits.

2%20-%20Copy_zpsjlsd40es.jpg


In the 80's and 90's I started experimenting with building models out of brass.
Starting with the frames and running gears and eventually to building the whole brass engines.

Here is a photo that was taken back in the late 90's of some of my builds.
These models are all freelance builds and none of these locomotives are modeled exactly like an existing locomotive.  
The ( unfinished ) articulated engine on the lower left, has a boiler made out of a piece of tube from an old brass bed.

2_zpst271bubd.jpg


Eventually, I accumulated the necessary tools for working with brass like a resistance solderer, drills and taps and small drill press, mill and lathe.
We are in the process of selling our house so we can move out of state and all those fancy tools are packed away in storage in southern Indiana.  

So that brings me to my current problem.
I picked up this brass engine shell off ebay awhile back and didn't intend to do anything with it until after we got moved.
In the mean time, to have something to work on, I have been making houses and other buildings for my future O-scale layout

This brass engine shell is a nicely built model but it does have one problem.
The sand dome is placed so far forward that there isn't any room for a smoke stack.

SAM_0303_zpsalnxn8nu.jpg


This fall I got this 0-4-4-0 chassis for a small logging engine and it has been sitting on a shelf with the engine shell.

SAM_0304_zpskdwaqmcc.jpg


The chassis came with a bag of linkage and a bag with some end caps for the steam cylinders and some spoke wheels.

SAM_0305_zpsexcxzqub.jpg

SAM_0306_zpsmi1mdsef.jpg


I've gotten a little tired of making buildings all the time and started thinking about that engine shell and the articulated chassis.
If I added a smoke box to the front of that engine shell it would be the right length to fit on that chassis.

Luckily, I kept the small lathe here when I packed up the rest of the tools.
Besides a few hand tools, the only other tools for working with metal are a 325 watt soldering gun and a hand drill.
I already know from experience long ago that the soldering gun isn't going to be very effective for soldering on a brass engine shell.  


What the heck, I decided to go ahead and see how far I can get on putting these two parts together.

The wheels on the chassis would not rotate a full revaluation because the shaft that goes into the steam cylinders have rust on them.
I took the chassis's apart and cleaned them up.
The rust was removed from the shafts and I rubbed them down with a piece of canning wax.
The bearing blocks got a little light lubricating grease put on them before I re-assembled the axles.

SAM_0307_zpsxauwtrn5.jpg


I've ordered a smoke box from PSC and that should be here next week.
In the mean time I'm going to see about getting the chassis mounted to the engine shell.

Normally, the steam cylinders of the a steam chassis would be mounted to the underside of the boiler with a screw going up thru the center of the saddle for the steam cylinders.
However this articulated chassis has a pivot pin on the back of the front unit that fits into a hole in the center of the steam cylinder on the rear unit.
There is also a flexible drive shaft that goes right thru the center so I can't put a mounting screw up from the bottom.

SAM_0309_zpsdkn87esd.jpg

SAM_0314_zpsfvkcait3.jpg


There is a threaded hole in the center of the steam cylinders on the rear chassis so I could mount it with a screw coming down from the top.

SAM_0308_zpsvpsll4s3.jpg


The problem with that is the mounting screw would have to go all the way thru the boiler and the head of the screw would be on top of the boiler right behind the bell.

SAM_0310_zpsvakqt0xj.jpg


As luck would have it, there is a small lip sticking out the front of the saddle on the rear steam cylinders.

SAM_0311_zpsie0yv2vq.jpg


Using a piece of .020 thick brass, I made up a little piece that fits onto the underside of the boiler.
This is mounted with machine screws.   After we get moved, I can solder this piece on so it will look smoother.

SAM_0312_zpswsqdzumf.jpg


The lip on the front of the rear steam cylinder fits into this piece and the area that is bent up on each side keeps the steam cylinder from moving sideways.

SAM_0313_zpsvvriuspc.jpg


The tail end of the rear unit is fastened to the underside of the cab with a single machine screw.
This is how the engine looks so far with the complete chassis installed under it.

SAM_0316_zpsm95hbttu.jpg


I'm thinking of using those spoke wheels that came with this chassis and making a leading and trailing truck for this engine.
That would make it a 2-4-4-2 locomotive.


Edited by jdcrawler, January 29, 2015 - 09:16 PM.

  • NUTNDUN, grnspot110, Alc and 13 others have said thanks

#2 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,355 Thanks
  • 39,630 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 29, 2015 - 09:21 PM

That's some very cool stuff there, Ray! Awesome loco's!


  • jdcrawler and tinbender7 have said thanks

#3 UncleWillie ONLINE  

UncleWillie

    wabbit wangler

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10399
  • 12,729 Thanks
  • 7,693 posts
  • Location: Gaston county, NC

Posted January 29, 2015 - 09:45 PM

Your talents never cease to amaze me.


  • jdcrawler and tinbender7 have said thanks

#4 T Guiles OFFLINE  

T Guiles
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 39800
  • 952 Thanks
  • 749 posts
  • Location: upstate ny

Posted January 30, 2015 - 12:03 AM

That's really cool I can't wait to see it finished


  • jdcrawler said thank you

#5 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,469 Thanks
  • 5,004 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted January 30, 2015 - 01:26 AM

You lost me at the first curve but it's going to be fun to see how this turns out. 


  • jdcrawler said thank you

#6 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,404 Thanks
  • 3,155 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted January 30, 2015 - 05:40 AM

Ray!!!! How the heck do you find the time to do all the things you do???? Dang!! I'm envious !!!
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#7 superspeedex OFFLINE  

superspeedex

    gttalk enthusiast

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 40756
  • 851 Thanks
  • 959 posts
  • Location: kittanning pa

Posted January 30, 2015 - 08:22 AM

That neat!!


  • jdcrawler said thank you

#8 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,521 Thanks
  • 2,829 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted January 30, 2015 - 10:05 AM

Modeling the brass can be challenging. This will not only look good but you have a good story to go along with it. Being in HO scale & building most things from scratch like you one of the best compliments you can get is "where did you get that, I've never seen one of them before". Nice description of what your doing.

Edited by Sawdust, January 30, 2015 - 10:05 AM.

  • jdcrawler said thank you

#9 UncleWillie ONLINE  

UncleWillie

    wabbit wangler

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10399
  • 12,729 Thanks
  • 7,693 posts
  • Location: Gaston county, NC

Posted January 30, 2015 - 11:29 AM

Ray!!!! How the heck do you find the time to do all the things you do???? Dang!! I'm envious !!!

Ray is an alien android sent here to make the rest of us feel inferior.


  • jdcrawler, KennyP, skyrydr2 and 1 other said thanks

#10 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,173 Thanks
  • 1,724 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted January 30, 2015 - 02:32 PM

Today I used some Brasso and an old toothbrush and spent a couple of hours scrubbing.
It still needs some more work in some places but my hands are tired.
There has to be a better way to clean something like this !

SAM_0317_zps5gtl6sr2.jpg

SAM_0318_zpsud9tqlyo.jpg


  • grnspot110, wvbuzzmaster, IamSherwood and 6 others have said thanks

#11 daytime dave OFFLINE  

daytime dave

    Live long and prosper

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 531
  • 4,485 Thanks
  • 6,353 posts
  • Location: Upstate NY

Posted January 30, 2015 - 03:53 PM

Beautiful work Ray.  Thanks for sharing another of your talents!


  • jdcrawler said thank you

#12 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

toomanytoys84

    Aaron

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 45129
  • 8,222 Thanks
  • 5,066 posts
  • Location: Ohio

Posted January 30, 2015 - 09:48 PM

You are very talented and must be patient.
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#13 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,355 Thanks
  • 39,630 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 31, 2015 - 06:45 AM

The fun part now will be to get the surface ready for paint to stick to it!


  • jdcrawler said thank you

#14 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,521 Thanks
  • 2,829 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted January 31, 2015 - 11:20 PM

If your displaying this one I would find it hard to cover it with paint. Nice

Edited by Sawdust, January 31, 2015 - 11:20 PM.

  • jdcrawler said thank you

#15 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

toomanytoys84

    Aaron

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 45129
  • 8,222 Thanks
  • 5,066 posts
  • Location: Ohio

Posted February 01, 2015 - 08:29 PM

We're those originally painted? So pretty just polished.
  • jdcrawler and Sawdust have said thanks




Top