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The '59' Suburban That named itself 'Rusty Gold'


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#1 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 07:21 PM

You can't always get what you want , but if you try sometimes- you get what you need !

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#2 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 07:48 PM

Let me guess: One owner, stored inside, ran when parked?



#3 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 07:56 PM

All I know is, I 'HAD' to drive 600 miles this week . Had too.....


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#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 08:12 PM

Think you need to go back and get the rest of it!



#5 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 08:16 PM

I lucked out and found mine close to home, but I've traveled quite a distance to pick up others. It's worth the trip if it's what you want. It's getting harder to find these old DB's in decent shape, too. Post whatever pics you can, since there really aren't too many pics of these machines out there compared to some of the other brands. Good luck with it!

#6 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 08:22 PM

I lucked out and found mine close to home, but I've traveled quite a distance to pick up others. It's worth the trip if it's what you want. It's getting harder to find these old DB's in decent shape, too. Post whatever pics you can, since there really aren't too many pics of these machines out there compared to some of the other brands. Good luck with it!

Oh -- You didn't say that... I have a nice camera..

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This is what he looked like when I left him .

I bought a copy of the ~1959~ Sears and Roebuck Farm And Suburban edition for $25 bucks today ....

Oh I got it ...BAD.

Or should I say , I bought an origin edition.


Edited by MGP59DB, January 28, 2015 - 08:32 PM.

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#7 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 08:40 PM

So, have you tried to get it running yet or checked for spark? The belt drive system can be a bit of a pain to get adjusted right, so have patients with it. Replacing the belts made it a breeze to dial things in on mine. Also make sure the pulley below the engine pulley is working properly.
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#8 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 08:53 PM

I called my uncle today and asked 'WTF' Where do I even start... He said ... Pull and save the Spark plug. Get a new one recommended by the manual , Lay it on the block and check for spark . In the meantime the fuel system needs to be clear .

The bowl under the tank is there . Inside the tank has has minimal corrosion . Clear the lines and check for leaks. Throttle works now ,choke is froze.

Must have a good magnito.


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#9 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 09:21 PM

Just work on one thing at a time or you may start feeling overwhelmed. Remove the gas tank and clean it out. Throw some nuts and bolts along with some gas in the tank and shake it for a while. This will clean the corrosion out of it. Clean the sediment bowl assembly real good, and it would be a good idea to rebuild the carburetor. You may be able to get away with just cleaning the carburetor and replacing the gaskets. You should pull the flywheel and clean and adjust the points if you don't have spark. If you don't have spark after that, replace the condenser. If that doesn't work, you may need to replace the coil. If your engine has good compression, it should fire with the fuel system cleaned and good spark. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but we can help you get it up and running if you are having problems. Just have patients and ask questions.

Edited by classic, January 28, 2015 - 10:18 PM.

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#10 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 10:20 PM

Just work on one thing at a time or you may start feeling overwhelmed. s. Just have patients and ask questions.

Dr's have patients .. I have patience .

 

  I don't know how mechanically inclined you are,...... I was told this doesn't have condenser , or points.. Timing is in the fly wheel and coil. If that is not working.. look again. Years ahead of its time.


Edited by MGP59DB, January 28, 2015 - 10:21 PM.


#11 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 10:54 PM

I know nothing, so that is why I offered to help you if you run into problems getting your engine running. Your engine should be a Briggs 143302. I cleaned and gaped the points that weren't on my engine, and the condenser that also wasn't there worked just fine. I installed a new coil on my armature since the plug wire was in rough shape. Do you want a hand getting this thing running or what?
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#12 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 11:05 PM

I know nothing, so that is why I offered to help you if you run into problems getting your engine running. Your engine should be a Briggs 143302. I cleaned and gaped the points that weren't on my engine, and the condenser that also wasn't there worked just fine. I installed a new coil on my armature since the plug wire was in rough shape. Do you want a hand getting this thing running or what?

Yes - Pat is fallible..

So - I need to remove the fly wheel . and find the points , and condenser?

0148.jpg

Where would you start?

This is a 302.


Edited by MGP59DB, January 28, 2015 - 11:16 PM.


#13 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 11:23 PM

Ah ha, now that pic tells a story. The coil may still be good, but it looks like the plug wire is cracked where it enters the coil. A little high temp silicone could fix that if the rest of the wire is ok. Those coils can be hard to find, but there is a vendor here that may still be selling them. You will need to install the new coil on your armature if you buy one.
Yes, you will need to remove the flywheel to access the points and condenser. The points will most likely just need to be cleaned and set the point gap.
Does the engine have compression when you turn the flywheel?
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#14 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 11:32 PM

That little guy has a lot of potential.  I think you made a good haul!

 

If you need parts for it, let me know.  I am the guy that sells the coils and I should have all the other ignition parts in stock if you need them.  However, classic is right: most of the time you can get away with cleaning the points and then watch the flames fly!

 

Ben W.


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#15 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 11:40 PM

By the way, I'm fallible myself so join the club. First of all I would spray a little penetrating oil on the flywheel screen screws and the four screw holding the coil in place. Let it sit overnight then try removing the screws after lightly tapping the screws with a small hammer. The rust also needs to be cleaned off of the outer surface of the flywheel. Use only sandpaper to do this. Don't use a wire brush or steel wool.
You will need to remove the recoil starter clutch to remove the flywheel, and you should get the correct puller to remove the flywheel. Once the flywheel is off, you will find the points and condenser under a tin cover. I can help you out more tomorrow since it's getting late now.
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