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Troy Bilt Horse Project


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#16 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 10:42 PM

Yeah I've heard that complaint from other folks who've re powered with the Honda clone, where is the low oil sensor at and how'd you do it?

   I'll get a pic of it tomorrow and show where it's located. IIRC all I did was disconnect the wire from the sensor in the junction box. I've slept since I did it,LOL!!

                                             Mike


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#17 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2015 - 04:28 PM

  OK, no pic, but under the gas tank you'll see a little black plastic cylinder sort of beside the on-off switch. Just below that is a bolt w/ a wire coming out of it. This is the low oil sensor. Open the cyl and disconnect the wire from the sensor. Mine's been disconnected for about 5yrs w/ no ill effects but I still keep it overfilled w/ the 2x4 method.

                                    Mike


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#18 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2015 - 08:57 PM

what was wrong with the Kohler?  I can see "getting it going" with the HF engine for now but you are giving up alot  in more ways than one.   The weight of that cast iron engine acts as a counterweight,  and that Kohler is so much more a durable workhorse, than a throw a way like the HF engines. Don't give up on that Kohler, parts are available to completely rebuild it to be like brand new



#19 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2015 - 10:51 PM

what was wrong with the Kohler?  I can see "getting it going" with the HF engine for now but you are giving up alot  in more ways than one.   The weight of that cast iron engine acts as a counterweight,  and that Kohler is so much more a durable workhorse, than a throw a way like the HF engines. Don't give up on that Kohler, parts are available to completely rebuild it to be like brand new

   When I replaced the 8hp Briggs I had to add, IIRC, 17 lbs of 3/8" plate to the counterweight to make up the difference.

                                                Mike



#20 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 05:56 PM

I don't know about yours.
But, mine has reverse that utilizes the cam shaft.
Those engines are NLA.
So, if you replace the origional engine you will give up having a reverse gear.

Joe

 

You must have a different model TB than a Horse.


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#21 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 03:11 PM

I don't know about yours.
But, mine has reverse that utilizes the cam shaft.
Those engines are NLA.
So, if you replace the origional engine you will give up having a reverse gear.
Joe
 
You must have a different model TB than a Horse.


I think what he was getting at is the shaft is different, I see what Joe means now that I replaced it. The Kohler shaft was tapped for 3/8, the HF motor is 5/16 so the reversing disc just spins because the hole is bigger and won't reverse. Only way to fix it is to make the tapped end of the HF shaft 3/8 or weld the head of the 5/16 bolt to the reversing disc so both have to spin. Not a real good option if
You ever have to take it apart again. I'll live with it for now. As for the old Kohler I still have it, didn't junk it. The carb needs rebuilding (my buddy let it sit with gas in it for about 2 years) it needs a new condenser, needs rings and the valves adjusted. If I'm gonna do all that, I might as well do a full rebuild, so I opted to put the HF motor on for now so I can till and cultivate this Spring, and it only cost $99 and I'll have spare engine later on I can use for a wood splitter or pump or whatever. I think a rebuild kit is about $80, plus $35 or so to have the engine parts dipped and get all the junk cleaned out, carb kit is $25 or $30 too, so for now I was time and money ahead, but you can't beat those old cast iron Kohlers so like say I've still got it, plan to re-use it

#22 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 05:46 PM

The tapped hole in the HF engine I used was a metric( I cant recall the size and pitch). I had to add a washer between the pulley and shoulder on the crankshaft for pulley alignment.
Mike

#23 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 09:09 PM

I think what he was getting at is the shaft is different, I see what Joe means now that I replaced it. The Kohler shaft was tapped for 3/8, the HF motor is 5/16 so the reversing disc just spins because the hole is bigger and won't reverse. Only way to fix it is to make the tapped end of the HF shaft 3/8 or weld the head of the 5/16 bolt to the reversing disc so both have to spin. Not a real good option if
You ever have to take it apart again. I'll live with it for now. As for the old Kohler I still have it, didn't junk it. The carb needs rebuilding (my buddy let it sit with gas in it for about 2 years) it needs a new condenser, needs rings and the valves adjusted. If I'm gonna do all that, I might as well do a full rebuild, so I opted to put the HF motor on for now so I can till and cultivate this Spring, and it only cost $99 and I'll have spare engine later on I can use for a wood splitter or pump or whatever. I think a rebuild kit is about $80, plus $35 or so to have the engine parts dipped and get all the junk cleaned out, carb kit is $25 or $30 too, so for now I was time and money ahead, but you can't beat those old cast iron Kohlers so like say I've still got it, plan to re-use it

might as well do a full rebuild for an engine that just needs what amounts to a good tune up?  Why? You could have fixed that engine for less than the cost of that throw a way and not had to adapt anything.

One thing that I notice here on the forum. So many people here seem to think that replacing points and/or condenser is such a huge undertaking.. I do not understand why.   for so long, that was just standard procedure. The condenser... 1 mounting screw and 1 wire connection. why is that such a big deal these days?  

 

 

I deal with computerized crap daily at my work and it sure makes me NOT want anything to do with it on any car or truck that I ever buy.... I know that I don't want it on GTs either!


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