Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

new Pa collector and first restoration


  • Please log in to reply
75 replies to this topic

#31 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted March 31, 2011 - 11:38 AM

I haven't had good luck with the restoration series Valspar either but it could have been me. I can't remember which primer I used. I sprayed it with my hvlp gun, used the restoration series hardener and thinner. It took the paint forever to dry and cure. Once it was cured it seems to be brittle, almost like it is too hard. Like I said it could have been me, so I am going to give it one more shot on the next restoration. I do however really want to do base coat clear coat on some restorations and I know it will be more expensive I have always had good luck spraying them.

#32 MikesRJ OFFLINE  

MikesRJ

    One of the 1st 500!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 462
  • 70 Thanks
  • 118 posts
  • Location: S/E - PA

Posted March 31, 2011 - 05:17 PM

The paints I used:

Wheel Horse Red: Valspar Restoration Series International Harvester Red (paint code: 3344) - Tractor Supply Company
Wheel Horse Linen (beige): Sherwin Williams - Controls Rust - Antique White (paint code 140-2486) - any Sherwin Williams Store

I did a little write-up on spraying with a rattle can. Perhaps this is a good place to post it for the community?

Painting is almost identical to the priming process.

Painting steps;
1. Read the directions on the can. This cannot be stated enough. Follow the manufacturers directions explicitly. Whether you are using spray can or paint cans for mixing and spraying in your own HVLP gun, follow the directions. They are indispensable. I use spray cans so the following information applies specifically to spray can, but can be applied to spray guns equally well. Make sure to note the recommended spray distance, re-coat times (normally within two hours and after 48 hours, and dry times (handling). Do not deviate from the recommendations.

2. The surface should be block-sanded smooth to 320 grit sandpaper and cleaned with a metal prep product or acetone. The cleaner and smoother your primed surface, the smoother your paint layers will be. No exceptions. Good prep work equals good finish results. Spend the time to get the surface as perfect as you can so you achieve the best paint results, especially on the hood, seat, wheels, belt and engine covers, and anything else on your tractor that is a natural focal point when looking at your machine from any angle. I normally block-sand the primer to 400 or 600 grit depending on the part. This gives your paint a good flat surface to stick to and insures all surface residues are removed. Clean thoroughly with Simple Green solution and dry thoroughly before applying color paint.

3. Shake the can until you hear the rattle ball clearly, then continue to shake for an additional 3-5 minutes.The additional mixing time insures all of the paint solids are thoroughly mixed with the solvents. Insure the nozzle is completely clean of paint build-up before continuing. Holding the can upright, spray one shot into the air away from your work area, to clear the nozzle and internal straw of any paint in them which may have separated during storage.

4. Begin spraying off the part and move over the part at the prescribed distance and at a constant speed. Do not stop spraying until you are off the part on the opposite side. Apply light misting coat over the edges of the part. Put a single light misting coat over all corners, rolls, creases, etc. and all "hard edges". Each should have a single, almost see through, coating to insure a little added paint thickness in these areas. Also pre-paint any high wear areas in the same manner, very light and see through. Now put the can down and walk away for 3-5 minutes. This allows the paint to "flash" (or out-gas,propellants and solvents begin to evaporate) and "flow" (flow and leveling of the applied paint). When you return after 3-5 minutes the paint will have released its solvents and has started to get tacky.

NOTES:
a. The recommended distance (away from the surface to be painted) is dictated by the design of the nozzle on the can. Too close, too much paint. Too far away, not enough paint. Follow the suggested distances to the letter.

b. The speed at which you move the can dictates how much paint is applied. Slow-more, fast-less. When doing a "light, misting coat" you should be moving at a rate of approximately 1 foot per second. So if you're painting a 3 foot long hood, you should be able to slowly say "1-2-3 " on each pass, and just be off the part when you finish saying three.

c. Do not attempt to "touch up" areas you did not cover well on the first pass. Get the technique down right and overlap your passes. Don't try to correct for poor technique. You only put on one coat at a time, right or wrong, DO NOT GO BACK OVER IT. Continue until the part is coated and fix any mistakes on the next coat (after 3-5 minutes of course).

5. Again, begin spraying off the part, and in a constant speed and distance manner, spray a single almost see through coat of paint over the entire surface one pass at a time. Stop spraying on each pass when you have gone off the other end of the part. Overlap each pass by 50% on top of the previous pass and every successive pass. When you are done with a single, light coat you should still be able to see primer through the paint. Now put the can down once again, and walk away for 3-5 minutes to allow out-gassing and flow out.

6. Repeat step 5 again in exactly the same manner as before. You should now see the paint going on and glossing almost immediately. Continue to overlap and complete the surface. Can down, and again walk away for 3-5 minutes.

7. Apply only as many coats as is needed to completely cover the part, and only after allowing the part to dry the recommended recoate time (usually 48-72 hours).

Edited by MikesRJ, March 31, 2011 - 05:30 PM.

  • caseguy, 1967bolens collector, gapper and 3 others have said thanks

#33 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

1967bolens collector

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1920
  • 648 Thanks
  • 1,437 posts
  • Location: carney's point new jersey

Posted March 31, 2011 - 09:17 PM

Regular Valspar is also of very high quality. As hard as this might be to believe, my Rj was painted entirely with rattle-cans. But, I have tried both Valspar's using HVLP. I used Valspar's thinner and hardener, under the correct temperature and humidity suggestions, and had no issue with the flow or results. In fact I was quite impressed with the results, especially considering the relatively low price compared with automotive paints. One rule of thumb I've always followed, never mix different manufacturers (paints, thinners, hardeners, primers, etc.) products unless you have extensively tested their comparability yourself.



ok thats where i went wrong they dont carrie valspar thinner at my tsc. they had mineral spirts but its some off brand. i will have to get them to order the thinner because i bought a whole gallon of allis chalmers orange for a AC B im restoring for a guy an im goin to have to use it so the thinner has to be the problem. its not my first day painting an i knew it wasent se screwing up with the gun. thanks for the info

#34 gapper OFFLINE  

gapper

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2232
  • 5 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: York, Pa

Posted April 05, 2011 - 04:57 PM

WOW, Thanks for all the great info guys. I hope to be doing some painting very soon. I am also looking into powder coating a lot of my WH. I think i will be able to find colors that are very close to what they should be. I am getting lucky, I am doing some work for a person that has his own powder coating shop and he is going to help me out with my tractor. Does anyone have any thoughts about powder coating, pro's or con's.
Does anyone have a manual for my transmission? I would like to pull mine down and ckeck inside for any trouble and to replace leaking seals. I think it is a wheel horse trans #5025. Does that sound right? Thanks, Rick

Edited by gapper, April 05, 2011 - 05:20 PM.


#35 MikesRJ OFFLINE  

MikesRJ

    One of the 1st 500!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 462
  • 70 Thanks
  • 118 posts
  • Location: S/E - PA

Posted April 06, 2011 - 12:45 AM

The 1962 502 did indeed have a 5025 transmission.

5025 Transmission Manual: http://www.mywheelho...1958_-_1982.pdf
1962 502 Owner's Manual: http://www.mywheelho...-Parts-List.pdf
  • gapper said thank you

#36 gapper OFFLINE  

gapper

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2232
  • 5 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: York, Pa

Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:06 PM

So I guess it is official, I am now a collector!! I just brought home a 72 commando 800 and am planning a trip to Harmonsburg Pa to pick up a 702. I think i better get myself into high gear and get to work. I also picked up a 97 cub cadet 2135 to cut the grass. I had to put on ag tires and make my own wheel weights because most of what i am cutting is hills. The cub seems to be working great but with all the rain we are getting and the ground being soft, those ag tires are sure digging in!

#37 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

middleageddeere

    Tacos!

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2033
  • 243 Thanks
  • 1,082 posts
  • Location: MI

Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:26 AM

Welcome to GT talk (a while back), sounds like you have a cool project there. Congrats and good luck.

#38 caseguy OFFLINE  

caseguy

    Connoisseur of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 906
  • 1,624 Thanks
  • 5,600 posts
  • Location: Edinburg, PA

Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:30 AM

So I guess it is official, I am now a collector!! I just brought home a 72 commando 800 and am planning a trip to Harmonsburg Pa to pick up a 702. I think i better get myself into high gear and get to work. I also picked up a 97 cub cadet 2135 to cut the grass. I had to put on ag tires and make my own wheel weights because most of what i am cutting is hills. The cub seems to be working great but with all the rain we are getting and the ground being soft, those ag tires are sure digging in!


Just wanted to say congrats on a few more additions to your collection! You can be a collector with just one! I think you're moving into the "addict" phase of the hobby now LOL! We'd love to see some pics of the new additions too! I'd like to find a round hood for my collection / addiction as well, but I think I mentioned that already.

#39 gapper OFFLINE  

gapper

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2232
  • 5 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: York, Pa

Posted May 10, 2011 - 07:33 PM

You are so right, I am an addict!! I can't stop looking in weeds or fence rows of houses and farms looking for more!! I am even picking up parts that i don't need just because they go to a wheel horse. I am running out of storage space so fast my head is spinning. I can't wait to go to my first south mountain show. Only a few weeks away!!!!! :-) I am getting the word out in my local area that i am looking for old WH tractors so i think i just might end up with a few more in my collection. Including the one my dad is useing right now, LOL!! I never knew it would be so much fun!

#40 caseguy OFFLINE  

caseguy

    Connoisseur of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 906
  • 1,624 Thanks
  • 5,600 posts
  • Location: Edinburg, PA

Posted May 10, 2011 - 08:11 PM

:orangecool: I know what you mean! :orangecool:

#41 gapper OFFLINE  

gapper

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2232
  • 5 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: York, Pa

Posted June 01, 2011 - 05:49 PM

I tried to pick up another horse over the weekend. I seen this tractor sitting out over the winter with a snow plow on it. I was going to stop in and see if the person wanted to sell it but i didn't. It looked like it was being used to plow snow with. As spring come and the tractor covered i thought it would be no way it would be for sale. I was shocked to see it sitting out with a for sale sign on it this weekend. I stopped in and had a look. I am not sure but i don't think it has the original motor on it. There is a tecumseh motor on it. Was any horses made with that motor? The belt guard says it is a 653, I guess i should do some research and find out about the 653. It still had the plow on it and tire chains, wheel weights. I was not sure about how much to offer the man. There was a lot of things that would need fixed to get her back to good shape. The two piece fuel tank must must have been a leaker because someone bolted a steel tank to the hood and plummed it to the carb. The owner would not take my offer and i was not sure if i should have offered more. She was still sitting out for sale on monday. I JUST DON'T KNOW ENOUGH ABOUT THESE GEMS YET!!!!!

#42 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted June 01, 2011 - 05:53 PM

gapper ,Yes, there were some Horse's built with TEC. power. I will check and see if the 653 was avalable with that engine...

#43 GWest OFFLINE  

GWest

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 130
  • 450 Thanks
  • 408 posts

Posted June 01, 2011 - 06:54 PM

The 1963 model 653 used a H60-75009 with electric start.
6=engine hp
5=3 forward speeds with electric start
3=1963

Garry

#44 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted June 01, 2011 - 07:25 PM

Thanks Gary, I thought that was right, but needed to check before I posted..

#45 gapper OFFLINE  

gapper

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2232
  • 5 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: York, Pa

Posted June 01, 2011 - 08:19 PM

thanks garry, after i posted i did do some research and found the same as you posted. Does anyone have ANY thoughts as to how much a running 653 with snow plow chains and wheel weights might be worth or at least a fare amount to offer? He was asking 350.00 i offered him 125.00 he said he would take 200.00 and i didn't know what to do.




Top