new Pa collector and first restoration
Posted March 31, 2011 - 11:38 AM
Posted March 31, 2011 - 05:17 PM
Wheel Horse Red: Valspar Restoration Series International Harvester Red (paint code: 3344) - Tractor Supply Company
Wheel Horse Linen (beige): Sherwin Williams - Controls Rust - Antique White (paint code 140-2486) - any Sherwin Williams Store
I did a little write-up on spraying with a rattle can. Perhaps this is a good place to post it for the community?
Painting is almost identical to the priming process.
1. Read the directions on the can. This cannot be stated enough. Follow the manufacturers directions explicitly. Whether you are using spray can or paint cans for mixing and spraying in your own HVLP gun, follow the directions. They are indispensable. I use spray cans so the following information applies specifically to spray can, but can be applied to spray guns equally well. Make sure to note the recommended spray distance, re-coat times (normally within two hours and after 48 hours, and dry times (handling). Do not deviate from the recommendations.
2. The surface should be block-sanded smooth to 320 grit sandpaper and cleaned with a metal prep product or acetone. The cleaner and smoother your primed surface, the smoother your paint layers will be. No exceptions. Good prep work equals good finish results. Spend the time to get the surface as perfect as you can so you achieve the best paint results, especially on the hood, seat, wheels, belt and engine covers, and anything else on your tractor that is a natural focal point when looking at your machine from any angle. I normally block-sand the primer to 400 or 600 grit depending on the part. This gives your paint a good flat surface to stick to and insures all surface residues are removed. Clean thoroughly with Simple Green solution and dry thoroughly before applying color paint.
3. Shake the can until you hear the rattle ball clearly, then continue to shake for an additional 3-5 minutes.The additional mixing time insures all of the paint solids are thoroughly mixed with the solvents. Insure the nozzle is completely clean of paint build-up before continuing. Holding the can upright, spray one shot into the air away from your work area, to clear the nozzle and internal straw of any paint in them which may have separated during storage.
4. Begin spraying off the part and move over the part at the prescribed distance and at a constant speed. Do not stop spraying until you are off the part on the opposite side. Apply light misting coat over the edges of the part. Put a single light misting coat over all corners, rolls, creases, etc. and all "hard edges". Each should have a single, almost see through, coating to insure a little added paint thickness in these areas. Also pre-paint any high wear areas in the same manner, very light and see through. Now put the can down and walk away for 3-5 minutes. This allows the paint to "flash" (or out-gas,propellants and solvents begin to evaporate) and "flow" (flow and leveling of the applied paint). When you return after 3-5 minutes the paint will have released its solvents and has started to get tacky.
a. The recommended distance (away from the surface to be painted) is dictated by the design of the nozzle on the can. Too close, too much paint. Too far away, not enough paint. Follow the suggested distances to the letter.
b. The speed at which you move the can dictates how much paint is applied. Slow-more, fast-less. When doing a "light, misting coat" you should be moving at a rate of approximately 1 foot per second. So if you're painting a 3 foot long hood, you should be able to slowly say "1-2-3 " on each pass, and just be off the part when you finish saying three.
c. Do not attempt to "touch up" areas you did not cover well on the first pass. Get the technique down right and overlap your passes. Don't try to correct for poor technique. You only put on one coat at a time, right or wrong, DO NOT GO BACK OVER IT. Continue until the part is coated and fix any mistakes on the next coat (after 3-5 minutes of course).
5. Again, begin spraying off the part, and in a constant speed and distance manner, spray a single almost see through coat of paint over the entire surface one pass at a time. Stop spraying on each pass when you have gone off the other end of the part. Overlap each pass by 50% on top of the previous pass and every successive pass. When you are done with a single, light coat you should still be able to see primer through the paint. Now put the can down once again, and walk away for 3-5 minutes to allow out-gassing and flow out.
6. Repeat step 5 again in exactly the same manner as before. You should now see the paint going on and glossing almost immediately. Continue to overlap and complete the surface. Can down, and again walk away for 3-5 minutes.
7. Apply only as many coats as is needed to completely cover the part, and only after allowing the part to dry the recommended recoate time (usually 48-72 hours).
Edited by MikesRJ, March 31, 2011 - 05:30 PM.
- caseguy, 1967bolens collector, gapper and 3 others have said thanks
Posted March 31, 2011 - 09:17 PM
Regular Valspar is also of very high quality. As hard as this might be to believe, my Rj was painted entirely with rattle-cans. But, I have tried both Valspar's using HVLP. I used Valspar's thinner and hardener, under the correct temperature and humidity suggestions, and had no issue with the flow or results. In fact I was quite impressed with the results, especially considering the relatively low price compared with automotive paints. One rule of thumb I've always followed, never mix different manufacturers (paints, thinners, hardeners, primers, etc.) products unless you have extensively tested their comparability yourself.
ok thats where i went wrong they dont carrie valspar thinner at my tsc. they had mineral spirts but its some off brand. i will have to get them to order the thinner because i bought a whole gallon of allis chalmers orange for a AC B im restoring for a guy an im goin to have to use it so the thinner has to be the problem. its not my first day painting an i knew it wasent se screwing up with the gun. thanks for the info
Posted April 05, 2011 - 04:57 PM
Does anyone have a manual for my transmission? I would like to pull mine down and ckeck inside for any trouble and to replace leaking seals. I think it is a wheel horse trans #5025. Does that sound right? Thanks, Rick
Edited by gapper, April 05, 2011 - 05:20 PM.
Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:06 PM
Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:26 AM
Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:30 AM
So I guess it is official, I am now a collector!! I just brought home a 72 commando 800 and am planning a trip to Harmonsburg Pa to pick up a 702. I think i better get myself into high gear and get to work. I also picked up a 97 cub cadet 2135 to cut the grass. I had to put on ag tires and make my own wheel weights because most of what i am cutting is hills. The cub seems to be working great but with all the rain we are getting and the ground being soft, those ag tires are sure digging in!
Just wanted to say congrats on a few more additions to your collection! You can be a collector with just one! I think you're moving into the "addict" phase of the hobby now LOL! We'd love to see some pics of the new additions too! I'd like to find a round hood for my collection / addiction as well, but I think I mentioned that already.
Posted May 10, 2011 - 07:33 PM
Posted May 10, 2011 - 08:11 PM
Posted June 01, 2011 - 05:49 PM
Posted June 01, 2011 - 05:53 PM
Posted June 01, 2011 - 06:54 PM
5=3 forward speeds with electric start
Posted June 01, 2011 - 07:25 PM
Posted June 01, 2011 - 08:19 PM