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Regulator Question?


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#31 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2015 - 06:02 PM

Glad you got it working for ya.


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#32 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2015 - 06:29 PM

Good deal Kenny!  I think you're good to go on the charging now.  

Now to get this spitting out the exhaust & intake to clear up. The engine sounds good at a fast idle, so the carb may be part of the issue. I'm hoping the Seafoam & MMO will help out some.

 

I'll probably revert back to the tiller thread from here!


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#33 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2015 - 07:07 PM

A little transmission oil in the gas , and a little more in the oil may clean up your troubles. Governor on my ferguson tractor was not working, put transmission oil in base oil , cleaned things up and is now working. Also stuck exhaust valve in Mf 14 was fixed by transmission oil. Noel
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#34 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2015 - 07:31 PM

A little transmission oil in the gas , and a little more in the oil may clean up your troubles. Governor on my ferguson tractor was not working, put transmission oil in base oil , cleaned things up and is now working. Also stuck exhaust valve in Mf 14 was fixed by transmission oil. Noel

That's about what MMO is! Tranny fluid does work real good, though!


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#35 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 06:41 AM

As I was checking connections, I found the Electric Lift switch is NOT a momentary switch. This I did not like. So I Googled DPDT Momentary switch and found this on Amazon:

DPDT Switch.JPG

 

It'll be here early next week. Actuator should show here Thursday, probably late afternoon. I can use the old switch to figure out the wiring for it.


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#36 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 08:13 AM

Nice looking switch. Noel
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#37 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 08:22 AM

I'll post a review of it when I get it.


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#38 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 09:47 AM

Glad everything is working out. It's good to read & learn of the many different charging systems. Sooner or later we all have to deal with them.
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#39 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 10:12 AM

Me too, Jim! These type of threads help us all learn about different things. When I started the thread, I was sure this had a 15 amp charging system. I glad I pulled the flywheel and found out for sure what it had. Of course, the info was there all along in the parts manual. I just didn't take the time to figure it out.

I think the old regulator may still work. I'll get a pic of the back side later, but there looks to be a 'cold' solder joint back there. Ohm meter does not show continuity there.


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#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 07:14 PM

Here's a pic of the back of the regulator. Upper right is a not so good looking solder joint. Just below that and a bit left is the one I could not get continuity through the solder and prong. I re did those two spots. Now to hook it up and see if it works. If not, nothing lost!

DSCN0150.JPG

 

I did another test on the system. Wound the engine up and turned the PTO on. Got a 14.4 volt reading. So it is charging well. After turning the PTO off, it went back to 14 volts. Hopefully this will work okay with the actuator.


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#41 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 06:21 AM

Kenny glad to hear you got to the bottom of the charging problems and soldering the joints saved $$ , I'm still scratching my head on how the 10 amp stators can make 20 volts ac to 14.5 dc :(   I even tried looking for info but the 10 amp didn't have much at all . Maybe some of the sharp electrical members would be able to explain it to me , Al



#42 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 08:41 AM

I don't understand it Al. I do have the 20 amp regulator installed right now, not the 10 amp I repaired. I may test it today to see if it works now. I think the AC volts have increased some since I cleaned things out, I'll check that also.


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#43 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 08:49 AM

Kenny even if it's more then 20 volts the trouble shooting sheet you posted calls for " over 20 volts ac "  I'm confused , though it doesn't take too much lol



#44 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 09:02 AM

And on that sheet in Test D max voltage is 14.7 Volts for the 10 Amp system. I don't understand either!

 

On another note, when I turned the PTO on, the light in the dash worked! That surprised me!


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#45 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 09:44 AM

The voltage regualtor will usually put put out a max of 14.5-.7 Volts DC on most systems. They are also limited on amps as to prevent overloading the wiring and causing a fire.

The 20+ volts you all are talking about is produced as AC across the two leads coming from stator. If you put a meter on both those leads,turn to AC, you need to have 20+ volts across those 2. Once it goes into regulator, it gets converted to DC and comes out at the 14 or so max to charge battery.

My system is a 20 amp on my Sears, I have burnt up more than 1 regulator as I was trying to use my high draw head lights and winch at the same time. With lights on and the first draw from winch, I pull more than 20 amps so I eventually over heat and burn up regulator. Looking into LED lights to help that.


Edited by TAHOE, January 28, 2015 - 09:46 AM.

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