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Model L oil filter


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#1 jomama OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2015 - 10:03 PM

OK Lads I am probably the or one of the newest members and I have a question. I have a 1948 L Model which has a sealed oil canister of some type with the pressure gague and lines in and out. Does this unit have a screen inside for a filter?. It dosent appear to be removeable for cleaning . I did check and see the oil returning when I removed the oil filler cap. Should this be replaced with a newer spin on type unit?. Thanks in advance for any help.


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#2 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2015 - 10:14 PM

Welcome to the forum. I can't answer your question but I'm sure someone will be along that can. Maybe posting a picture will help.


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#3 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2015 - 10:43 PM

There should be a full-on oil filter inside there.  Unfortunately, it is obsolete and NLA from any source I can find.   Take it off and flush it out with mineral spirits, gasoline, diesel, or kerosene.   If you are going to be using the machine often it'd be worth it to upgrade to a modern spin-on type filter from a 1966[ish] or later Gravely.  If its just for display at shows and sees minimal run time, the old style filter should be OK for several years.

 

:welcometogttalk:


Edited by Gtractor, January 18, 2015 - 10:45 PM.

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#4 jomama OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2015 - 10:44 PM

Welcome to the forum. I can't answer your question but I'm sure someone will be along that can. Maybe posting a picture will help.

I really wish I lived in an area with high speed internet. However all we have here in the dreaded DIAL UP . This makes it pretty much impossible for pics. According to the US Govt. the town I live in ( Thurman NY ) is " Mostly uninhabited" . It seems like the only people that know we exist are the TAX ASSESSORS.


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#5 jomama OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2015 - 11:02 PM

The canister,filter I refer to does not look like it comes apart. It has a small maybe 1/4" pipe plug in the front and being as how it looks like it sat for enough years for one of the rims to actually rot off then I think a change over would be a good move. I have seen what apears to be the mounting adapters on ebay and it looks like a pretty straight forward change over. Thanks for the help.
Another quick question, everything on this beast looks like cast iron right down to the cylinder and head. However the lower engine end is aluminum. Is this normal or possibly a rebuilt unit ?

#6 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2015 - 11:30 PM

Correct,  the filter is a sealed unit.  To flush it you just remove and pour in some sort of detergent, slosh around and drain.  Do that a few times or until what comes out looks mostly clean. 

Aluminum engine blocks were standard fare from the factory for decades.  That engine, with a few improvements, was made from the late 1930s through 1976.  The crankshaft is a multi-piece unit like a motorcycle engine.  

Make sure the cooling tins are in place around both sides of the engine's jug if you intend to work the tractor.


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#7 PaulL OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2015 - 01:37 AM

Welcome to the forum. I'm in the area in Schroon Lake and went on the maple sugar tour in Thurman last spring. I have a '50 L and a '54 L with the cannister filter. I picked up a used filter at a swap meet so that I have a flushed, clean one ready to go on when I change my oil. Then I can drain the old one thoroughly and flush it without holding up the oil change. Spin-on brackets are available used and new on ebay http://www.ebay.com/...635#ht_25wt_900 and new from Richard's Lawn and Garden in WV for $34 (not including gauge, fittings, or shipping). It will use a Fram PH8a filter (or similar) and will need some new plumbing. This bulletin should help should you decide to change. http://gravelymanual...95_19610630.pdf What attachments are you running?

Paul L
1950 L, 1954 L, 1968 Comm 10A, 1969 C8, 1971 C8, 1984 5665
1967 430, 1969 432
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#8 jomama OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2015 - 01:54 PM

At this point this project is in its infantcy . I have no attachments . The old timer in town who is into these has a lot of stuff and perhaps extras of some. If it all works out I will see if he wants to part with anything. Some people however wont part with a thing.  Russ



#9 PaulL OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2015 - 02:25 AM

If you tinker with the tractor over the winter and spring your timing may work out to your advantage. June 11-13 is the Gravely Mow-In, the annual show and major swap meet which is in Rhinebeck, NY this year, probably the closest you will ever find one. http://gtcoa.com/ See the Mow-In tab for details. There will be updates as the date gets closer. There will be tons of parts and attachments at the swap meet.

By the way, if you run the tractor without an attachment on the front you should have a blank cover with a center bolt (about 5/16" X 2 1/2" long) to keep the PTO dog retracted. If the PTO shaft comes too far forward it will disconnect from the engine and the tractor won't drive.

Paul L
1950 L, 1954 L, 1968 Comm 10A, 1969 C8, 1971 C8, 1984 5665
1967 430, 1969 432
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#10 jomama OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2015 - 10:25 PM

Paul, Thanks for the heads up on Rhinebeck. I know there are many different events down there but was unaware of the mow-in. I will mark it on the calendar right now.  Russ



#11 jomama OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2015 - 10:37 PM

If you tinker with the tractor over the winter and spring your timing may work out to your advantage. June 11-13 is the Gravely Mow-In, the annual show and major swap meet which is in Rhinebeck, NY this year, probably the closest you will ever find one. http://gtcoa.com/ See the Mow-In tab for details. There will be updates as the date gets closer. There will be tons of parts and attachments at the swap meet.

By the way, if you run the tractor without an attachment on the front you should have a blank cover with a center bolt (about 5/16" X 2 1/2" long) to keep the PTO dog retracted. If the PTO shaft comes too far forward it will disconnect from the engine and the tractor won't drive.

Paul L
1950 L, 1954 L, 1968 Comm 10A, 1969 C8, 1971 C8, 1984 5665
1967 430, 1969 432

 

If you tinker with the tractor over the winter and spring your timing may work out to your advantage. June 11-13 is the Gravely Mow-In, the annual show and major swap meet which is in Rhinebeck, NY this year, probably the closest you will ever find one. http://gtcoa.com/ See the Mow-In tab for details. There will be updates as the date gets closer. There will be tons of parts and attachments at the swap meet.

By the way, if you run the tractor without an attachment on the front you should have a blank cover with a center bolt (about 5/16" X 2 1/2" long) to keep the PTO dog retracted. If the PTO shaft comes too far forward it will disconnect from the engine and the tractor won't drive.

Paul L
1950 L, 1954 L, 1968 Comm 10A, 1969 C8, 1971 C8, 1984 5665
1967 430, 1969 432

Paul,wont the lever on the left side that engages the dog keep it retracted?



#12 PaulL OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2015 - 01:27 AM

Here is a post from the other Gravely forum.  The person had a L where the engine ran but it didn't move.  They ruled out other causes and it came down to this.  I added the parenthesis for clarity.  The pinion drive shaft they talk about has the PTO dog on the front end.  I don't know what would cause the shaft to come forward (accidental PTO engagement?) but it apparently can without an attachment or cover with a center bolt on the front of the tractor.

 

"Remove that front cover and tell us if there is a stud on the inside center which sticks out about 1 1/2". That stud will keep the long pinion drive shaft engaged in the H/L (high/low) planetary assembly. If the is no stud, then the drive shaft can slide forward about an inch and you will loose drive between the H/L and F/R (fwd/rev) drives. If that happens, just reach in turn and push the long splined shaft until it engages the H/L again.  An attachment with a safety clutch holds the shaft in place. A front cover must have the stud to hold the shaft in place."

 

Paul L
1950 L, 1954 L, 1968 Comm 10A, 1969 C8, 1971 C8, 1984 5665
1967 430, 1969 432



#13 jomama OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2015 - 09:00 AM

Thanks Paul. Luckily my neighbor had an L many yrs ago and still had the unit for the attachments W/clutches. I will make up a gasket and see that its bolted on before trying this thing out.






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