Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

How many Ponies?

yanmar diesel

  • Please log in to reply
67 replies to this topic

#31 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 861 Thanks
  • 876 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted March 28, 2015 - 04:25 AM

Ok. That's what I was thinking,but just wanted to be positive. Thanks again Chris.


  • Cvans said thank you

#32 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 09:51 AM

Alright, another question for you diesel folk. As I've stated,this engine is out of a reefer unit. The alternator has a mass of wires and a condenser on the back.Do all these wire have to be hooked up?,or can I take some off? Why I ask is,there is only an inch between the exhaust and all these wires. I imagine they will get too hot and melt. I've tried to make a heat shield for between the 2 and just not enough room.


You can dummy most of the wires out, depending on the alt some have a "tachometer" but most wires can be eliminated.
  • limebuzz said thank you

#33 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 10:10 AM

Thanks, have you any specific manuals for this engine? If so,that would be great if you could share!
Paul

First of all, the rated horsepower is only 9.4hp, and before you attempt to hotwire and run it withoutthe control box special care has to be taken. There is a fuel solenoid with three wires.

Black -ground
Red -hold wire , wire to ignition switch
White - pull in , wire to the starter. This wire pulls 30 amp and if connected for any length of time will smoke and disable this motor.

If a tach is needed two spots can used. A megnetic flywheel sensor that is currently used for a running indicator with the reefer electronic pannel. This can be converted to a flywheel tach or on the alternator a tachometer also can be put on the tach connection.

The temp sensor is a overheating light connection and can be wired with a relay to kill the motor (disconnect the red wire mentioned above)

Motor starts without the help of glow plugs in the summer, and easy to wire a manual switch for the plugs.

On the on the shaft of the motor there is a rubber vibration damper or harmonic balancer. I would advise keeping it on there and I have the diagrams and schematics to adopt a plate on to it so engine doesn't see any device is currently attached to it. this will also aid and longevity of your crankshaft seals. this part can be removed but in my application I left it on there an adapted around it to reduce viberation.

Edited by angel187, April 01, 2015 - 10:23 AM.

  • olcowhand and limebuzz have said thanks

#34 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 10:16 AM

https://www.dropbox....171724.jpg?dl=0

Here is a picture of my work. Orginal mounts were cut and rewelded to fit application. Orginal damper still In place with adapter plate.

Edited by angel187, April 01, 2015 - 10:18 AM.


#35 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 10:35 AM

Also regarding heat and wires. Diesels do not run hot enough to melt wires, the water thermostat inside the unit is set for 180 degrees Celsius since this particular unit was used for heat. the only other considerations for stand-alone operation would be the rad and a fan. the alternator on this unit only produces 30 amps maximum and once hot only sustains 15 amps, with a charge which does not leave a lot of room considering you're also running a 10 amp fuel pump.

before too much time is spent in converting the engine make sure your diesel injection pump is a variable. most of these units are set with a fixed injection pump making them use useless for any other operation accept what they're designed. depending on the model of the reefer unit there will be a high and low setting for the throttle control by a 12 volt solenoid hooked directly to the injection pump. if you use the solenoid you will have control over the motors idle and full speed only. If removed throttle have to be attached with the cable
  • limebuzz said thank you

#36 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 861 Thanks
  • 876 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 02:06 PM

Thanks so much Angel187. I did not get the rubber mount on the flywheel.the PO had started to convert it over into a Daytona. The fuel solinoid was already bypassed. I did have it running before I did anything.it has full throttle range.If I have a gravity fed tank,do I still need a pump?

Thanks

Paul



#37 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 08:33 PM

Thanks so much Angel187. I did not get the rubber mount on the flywheel.the PO had started to convert it over into a Daytona. The fuel solinoid was already bypassed. I did have it running before I did anything.it has full throttle range.If I have a gravity fed tank,do I still need a pump?
Thanks
Paul


Yes, diesels have two seperate lines running. A feed and a return. The fuel pump that comes with it also serves as a fuel seperator for water (water in a diesel kills the motor) and should have a fuel filter. Mine are both shown in the picture above.

First line is a pressure in to the diesel pump, then excessive pressure and volume is sent back to the tank via fuel pump keeping fuel always in circulation. Improper fuel pressure can lead to a "underfuel" condition and is very hard on the motor. In gas terms lean but diesels do not restrict air flow like gas does. In this motor overfuel is prefered.

Make sure your fuel solenoid wires are connected in the post above. One of those to replace is around 150 $ usd

#38 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 08:40 PM

And yes it will run wired wrong until the coil overheats and then motor needs repair. Verify the wires and it can save in the long run.

#39 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 861 Thanks
  • 876 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 08:42 PM

The fuel solinoid was hacked up,gutted and welded shut. And the wires are completely gone.



#40 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 08:54 PM

The fuel solinoid was hacked up,gutted and welded shut. And the wires are completely gone.


I hope you didnt pay much for this motor. The fuel solnoid is how the motor shuts off and turns on. Diesels run without electronic help. In any diesel truck, car or tractor you shup off the fuel to turn off motor. Since this motor needs content fuel pressure in the diesel pump to run properly im not sure how you plan on shuting it off. Killing the fuel pump will result in a underfuel condition.

My gmc 3500 diesel shuts off the pmd (pump mounted driver, aka diesel injector)
In my wifes passat it shuts off a solenoid in the pmd
In my tractor I pull a knob that stops the flow of diesel to the injectors.

In all the above all result in fuel being cut without a underfuel condion.

#41 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,469 Thanks
  • 5,005 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted April 01, 2015 - 09:07 PM

angel187, is that a gearbox from an inboard boat motor attached to your engine?

 

Does that Yanmar have a manual compression release like mine?



#42 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 09:18 PM

Yes, that transmission mounts on to the back of an old vire7, I machined a new plate complete with berring recesses and adapters and seals.
This yanmar far exceeds those of a 1gm, 2gm or even 3gm in simplistically and reliability. This 249 yanmar is made to run for up to 10, 000 hours and since there for a refer there also made for low maintenance. The have almost a 5 liter oil pan so more oil longer life, its also factory setup to run flat out all its life.

It does not have manual or automatic uncompression but I only would use that in extreme cold to get oil circulation before a start. Example, my old yanmar ym245 mini tractor has uncompression but my international does not.
  • Cvans said thank you

#43 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 861 Thanks
  • 876 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 09:20 PM

Well, I don't know now! Lol. When I started it when I first got it, when I let off the thottle shaft on the pump. It shut off! Is that just a underfuel condition?



#44 angel187 OFFLINE  

angel187
  • Member
  • Member No: 68782
  • 6 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: chatham, ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 09:35 PM

Well, I don't know now! Lol. When I started it when I first got it, when I let off the thottle shaft on the pump. It shut off! Is that just a underfuel condition?


Yes, sounds like its rigged. Just dont let it idle to low as its hard on it and possible to throw a rod. And when you shut it down all the way off to kill fuel as fast as possible.

#45 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 861 Thanks
  • 876 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted April 01, 2015 - 09:49 PM

Yes, sounds like its rigged. Just dont let it idle to low as its hard on it and possible to throw a rod. And when you shut it down all the way off to kill fuel as fast as possible.

Ok,so this is alright to use this way? Atleast till I can find one for it anyways?







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: yanmar diesel

Top