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C160 Wheel Horse Blowing Snow


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#1 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 08:32 AM

It was -2 when I took this video.  Trying to get the driveway cleared.

 

 

Nice Blower IMO, need to figure out why the tranny slips sometimes and then it will be perfect for my needs.


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#2 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 08:48 AM

Looks like it works.  Good Stuff  :thumbs:


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#3 HANKG ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 09:00 AM

That pony sounds great when she dig's in.
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#4 case442 ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 09:44 AM

Looks like fun Alan, I had the Ht 20 out yesturday

Mike
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#5 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 09:45 AM

You sure you have the "park" lever down to put the idler pulley tight onto the belt?

Driven pulley on the trans sure tight and not slipping?

Correct belt?

Plenty of fluid in the tranny?

New filter?


Edited by KC9KAS, January 10, 2015 - 09:45 AM.

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#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 09:54 AM

new filter, good synthetic oil, right level.

belt tight... Not sure.

 

it kind of only happens when accelerating rapidly or sudden up hill. Make the same noise as if I am lugging it and slows down. Kind of a light hammering feeling.

 

hammering might not be the right word, pulsing maybe? It's not thw same as the pop off whine. Heard that when I caught on a dirt lump under the snow



#7 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 11:31 AM

Belts on these are under bid side cover and not that easy to get to quick. That park brake IS the tensioner. There is a spring or two below in likage. Might be able to see if remove rear wheel and kinda get under the lift tractor at right side. Also, the belt has little places to ride on when loose, make sure you are not in wrong position for those. You wouldn't think important, but they make big difference and keep belt from flapping when loose, and on the pulleys. Some of those tabs are on the tunnel, some on the belt cover. Might try spraying or oiling up those linkages best you can and see of work easier. Can do some of that from tunnel with cover off.



#8 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 12:49 PM

Good video...thanks for posting that! Your blower throws snow long distance!
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#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 07:08 PM

You sure you have the "park" lever down to put the idler pulley tight onto the belt?
Driven pulley on the trans sure tight and not slipping?
Correct belt?
Plenty of fluid in the tranny?
New filter?

 
 

Belts on these are under bid side cover and not that easy to get to quick. That park brake IS the tensioner. There is a spring or two below in likage. Might be able to see if remove rear wheel and kinda get under the lift tractor at right side. Also, the belt has little places to ride on when loose, make sure you are not in wrong position for those. You wouldn't think important, but they make big difference and keep belt from flapping when loose, and on the pulleys. Some of those tabs are on the tunnel, some on the belt cover. Might try spraying or oiling up those linkages best you can and see of work easier. Can do some of that from tunnel with cover off.


Found the issue and I dont like it.

I believe I can fix it, but it won't be pretty. I see some welding and a couple of mods in this frame's future.
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#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 08:41 PM

Have had horses that had cracks there. Note on one set of bolts is a crosspiece between them to strengthen. keep that on there. It is loose maybe, but still belongs there. Could make same for upper bolts??  I'm not sure that fix is going to give you much movement. I can't recall much, but isn't there some adjust on that long cross-wise shaft? One thing Horses have is little bushings on end of many of those shafts where they cross thru the sides of tunnel. Many are worn thru and just the tip lip looks like a washer still left on them out by the circlips that hold shafts in. When these wear the shafts get sloppy. Very hard to find correct bushings, they are real thin and still have a flange. I found some from Toro, but like $8 a piece or something close. A crazy price, but not sure you can make them that thin and never found ready made ones.  I would like at spacing out the ball pin to make it closer to the block.  Those blocks can also be worn or cracked down center. Might think about makeing couple bends in that arm ball is bolted too, but be careful, doesn't take much. Check that the 90* angle along the body side is straight, then straighten the part ball is on to make it square as you can.  Lubing all this area on assembly is important. Getting the adjustment right to not have creep each way when in Nuetral is very hard to do as the parts don't always return to the same exact spots when in N. Welcome to the old Horses.......good luck with whatever repairs you do and work.


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#11 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 09:02 PM

Well, that's a bummer. It was doing such a nice job on snow duty.

There must be a lot of slop in those holes. Will you weld them

closed and redrill?

glgrumpy was mentioning the intermittent, returning to N issue. The

early MF12Hydros have that problem too. They then added a spring, to

pull cam tight to one side in the swash plate. maybe you can do something

like that too. This is one I added.

 

DSCF2514.JPG


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#12 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 09:22 PM

Nice job on the snow throwing. Glad you found the problem before yhe whole thing came apart on you...that would have been a mess. GL had a good idea of tacking on a plate in between the top bolts.

#13 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2015 - 10:43 AM

If you can get the holes drilled into a 1/4" piece of flat steel precisely, weld it onto the back (trans side) of the frame. Use a bolts 1/4" longer and you should be set to go.

The sliding mechanism on the trans looks to be worn bad, so that should be replace too.


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#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2015 - 01:47 AM

I did a little googling and discovered this is not an uncommon issue. It was common enough that WH designed a repair plate to be welded in.
Plate is NLA and I have angle iron.
My pics skip a couple of steps, but you'll get the idea.
First, here is the plate after removing the tranny.
White lines are the major cracks
image.jpg
It's been my experience that I can't use a stick welder to fix those. I would just burn thru.
Got the torches and some steel wire. Welded the cracks that way. Also fixed a couple broken mount holes for the tunnel tin.
image.jpg image.jpg

Built a U out of the angle iron, also ran some gussets forward on inside of the frame
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
This is all stick welded except for the gussets. I bolted those in.
I really struggled deciding between a complete replacement of the rear plate or a backer. The alignment for the tranny is why I didnt. I hope the 1/8" gap between the OEM plate and the new one (ribs in the original hold it away a little in places). I will check for motion after using it a couple of times, but I put the blower against the blade on the pickup and went forward... There was none of that weird slop and the control was very much improved.

Got it together tonight just as it started to snow. Calling for some nasty stuff potentially, needed to have this ready to use, even if the lights aren't hooked back up and the seat latch needs tweaked. I can move snow and it works a whole lot better. Much nicer when your rear is firmly attached,
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#15 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2015 - 08:10 AM

You've been busy Alan.

Glad you got it fixed. Wind is switching to North.

That means lake affect for you, right?

Can't wait to see the snow blowing video. Camera in one

hand, flashlight in the other, and steering with your knees.


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