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sears adjustable top links


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#1 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 02:35 PM

Now just why are those so hard to find? seems like there must have been one for every 3 point hitch they sold.  Ha!

Actually, I needed one and found one last year. It is the one with the clevis ends.  When I hooked it up to my 2 bolt, 3 point hitch, It hit so it couldn't lift the implement.  So I ground part of it away and tried it again.  Still didn't work.  I needed the kind that has an L bend on each end. I ended up using something that wasn't adjustable but has got me by.

Here is a picture of the one that I can't use.  Does anyone have an old style one that they may be willing to trade?

toplink01.JPG


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#2 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 02:40 PM

Just a note: They get good money for that one, it is also used by other brands and is very strong!  I had a paper with diagrams and plans for making that I think, but gave them to my buddy. Think someone on here had them and sent to me in email or posted here maybe? Might look in Manuals section under Sears stuff.


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#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 03:59 PM

Boy, I would like to see why that is hitting. There isn't anything I can think of that would cause you to have to grind on it.
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#4 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 04:21 PM

Boy, I would like to see why that is hitting. There isn't anything I can think of that would cause you to have to grind on it.

yes by grinding on it you have just about made it worthless. Finding the L shaped one that not with a tractor will be hard. Making them isn't as easy as it sounds, because you have to buy right and left hand tap and dies to make it work right.


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#5 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 07:10 PM

The strength of that one is compromised, so...

Take the one you have and finish cutting the end off. Lay an appropriate size L shaped piece in what is left of the "U" and welder up. The left and right hand treads are already there. The same could be done to the other end as well.



#6 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 07:27 PM

actually, I have used it after grinding and can see no reason why the strength could possibly be compromised. There is still more steel there than in the clevis sides or anything it attaches to.  LOL what happens is this, you raise the handle, the little lever it is attached to (which is about 1/4 the thickness of that, even after grinding) turns up and forward. as the top link moves up and forward, it contacts the lift lever and stops dead. I had the 4 bolt lift arm on the suburban 10 and it worked great with that. but when I used the 4 bolt lift lever on the ss12, the handle would hit the seat. so I put the 2 bolt one on. I have been using a piece from the mower deck as a top link.  It has a clevis end, which I hook to the plow or disk. The other end is L shaped so works on the lift lever.  It only has about an inch of adjustment and you need to unhook it to make any adjustments.

My local welding shop only has right hand threads or he would have made me one and the top link I have would have been on ebay.






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