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How big should I make it?

box blade

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#16 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 08:12 PM

Well I decided to go with 48" so I cut the blade and cutting edge at 48" that's as far as I got this afternoon.

Question KennyP I read in your thread that you fabricated your own rippers how are they working did you heat treat them?

attachicon.gifHPIM1794.JPGattachicon.gifHPIM1795.JPG

They are doing fine. No heat treat, but they are thick metal (.3125 or .375, don't remember right now). I do have a drawing for the rippers.


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#17 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 08:30 PM

Hi KennyP, I would appreciate seeing your drawings thanks for the reply I just might try build some.


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#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 06:49 AM

I'll post a pic of the drawing in a bit!


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#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 09:35 AM

I already had 5 teeth that came on the blade when I bought it. I wanted 6 teeth since I was widening it, so I had to first duplicate the original tooth shape.  The originals were made from 3/8" X 1-1/2" strap iron. After measuring the originals, I cut one new piece at 11" long at a 17.5° ~ angle. Next I measured 1-3/4" on the short side of the cut-off piece for the next cut point, but at a 35° angle. This should give you something like this (I'll call it the shank):

Box Blade Tooth 1.JPG

The red portion at the bottom is the 35° cut back, making the bottom parallel with the very top. Weld this together. This angle to me was too vertical for the 'tooth' I wanted to add, so more cutting was needed. ( I downloaded a pic of a factory tooth to see what angle the 'tooth' was on them, which I determined to be 35° from horizontal.) Out came the angle grinder with a cutting wheel. The red portion in the next pic is what I trimmed after scribing a line on 35° and intersecting with the front vertical line.

Box Blade Tooth 2.JPG

Now I was ready to add the tooth section. This I made from some 1/4" X 1-1/4" strap off an old oxy/acetylene cart I converted to a regular two-wheeler. It's a bit stiffer than regular strap. These were cut to 4" long.  From the 'cutting end' of the tooth I drilled a 3/8" hole and cut a slot to the back edge so I could fit this on the shank. A little welding later, I had a completed ripper.

Box Blade Tooth 3.JPG

You may need to make yours longer than the 11" due to how you make the mounting for them. Mine are adjustable (depth) with several holes they can be pinned into.

 


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#20 Glenn Ayers OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2015 - 09:48 AM

I already had 5 teeth that came on the blade when I bought it. I wanted 6 teeth since I was widening it, so I had to first duplicate the original tooth shape.  The originals were made from 3/8" X 1-1/2" strap iron. After measuring the originals, I cut one new piece at 11" long at a 17.5° ~ angle. Next I measured 1-3/4" on the short side of the cut-off piece for the next cut point, but at a 35° angle. This should give you something like this (I'll call it the shank):

attachicon.gifBox Blade Tooth 1.JPG

The red portion at the bottom is the 35° cut back, making the bottom parallel with the very top. Weld this together. This angle to me was too vertical for the 'tooth' I wanted to add, so more cutting was needed. ( I downloaded a pic of a factory tooth to see what angle the 'tooth' was on them, which I determined to be 35° from horizontal.) Out came the angle grinder with a cutting wheel. The red portion in the next pic is what I trimmed after scribing a line on 35° and intersecting with the front vertical line.

attachicon.gifBox Blade Tooth 2.JPG

Now I was ready to add the tooth section. This I made from some 1/4" X 1-1/4" strap off an old oxy/acetylene cart I converted to a regular two-wheeler. It's a bit stiffer than regular strap. These were cut to 4" long.  From the 'cutting end' of the tooth I drilled a 3/8" hole and cut a slot to the back edge so I could fit this on the shank. A little welding later, I had a completed ripper.

attachicon.gifBox Blade Tooth 3.JPG

You may need to make yours longer than the 11" due to how you make the mounting for them. Mine are adjustable (depth) with several holes they can be pinned into.

NICE !


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#21 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2015 - 06:48 PM

Hi all, well the build has begun been getting materials in and ready for the build, I decided to purchase some rippers as I could get then for about that same as getting the steel to fabricate them so I went that way, they are suppose to be here on Thursday or Friday. Cut the end plates this afternoon have the blade and cutting edge cut to 48".

HPIM1795.JPG HPIM1802.JPG HPIM1830.JPG HPIM1831.JPG

 


Edited by MNGB, January 14, 2015 - 06:55 PM.

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#22 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2015 - 07:22 PM

Made some progress on the earthcavator today got the roll bearing welded to the end plate and the hitch arms fabricated, the ripper teeth also came today they are larger  then I thought but that's ok I can cut them off as needed. Tomorrow will weld the end plates to the blade or fabricated the roll over latch arms or maybe both if all goes good.

HPIM1832.JPG HPIM1833.JPG HPIM1834.JPG HPIM1835.JPG


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#23 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2015 - 07:23 AM

Nice looking progress.

#24 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2015 - 06:47 PM

Hi all, made good progress today got the end plates welded on, fabricated the hitch it, just have to add the 3 pt brackets to it, fabricated the roll over latch arms, tomorrow hopefully finish the 3 pt parts and the roll over trip mechanism. 

HPIM1836.JPG HPIM1837.JPG HPIM1838.JPG HPIM1839.JPG



#25 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2015 - 08:37 PM

That is going to be so handy. Cat 1 three point, right?
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#26 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2015 - 07:43 PM

Made so good progress today it does show that much lots of fabricating many parts and welding but its coming together, Hi Cat385B yes it should be handy I'm hoping to use it with the Power King but if it proves to be to much for the PK I'll hitch the Ford 8N to it.

HPIM1840.JPG HPIM1841.JPG HPIM1842.JPG HPIM1843.JPG



#27 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2015 - 07:09 PM

Hi, made some good progress today the hitch is done for the most part, got the roll over latches done tomorrow the trip lever and axle will be completed then its on to fabricating the ripper teeth mount and mounting the rippers on the mt bracket.

HPIM1844.JPG HPIM1847.JPG HPIM1848.JPG HPIM1849.JPG HPIM1851.JPG HPIM1852.JPG HPIM1853.JPG


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#28 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2015 - 07:39 PM

Hi all, well its getting close now got the roll over mechanism competed, and the ripper teeth cut to size and the mount competed and welded to the assembly, bolted the rippers on this afternoon and its looking good, my friend is going to get me a 5" X 1/4" X 48" piece of flat steel for the upper cutting edge then its to locate a square drill bit so the carriage bolts came be used to installed the blade :D  :dancingbanana:  .

Got to see how it works by accident this afternoon, we got about an 1" of snow and so you know that's a good enough excuse to get the PK  out and play, Well I had the earthcavator attached to the 3 pt and figure what the heck the wt can only help so I started plowing let the front blade down and took off pretty soon the PK seemed to be losing traction then it dawned on me the earthcavator was also down looked back and it was full of snow so it works, maybe I'll have to change the name  to a snowcavator :dancingbanana: :thumbs:

HPIM1855.JPG HPIM1857.JPG HPIM1860.JPG HPIM1862.JPG HPIM1865.JPG HPIM1868.JPG


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#29 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2015 - 03:06 PM

Excellent work!! What a nice addition to the tractor. :thumbs:


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#30 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2015 - 01:06 PM

Yep! Both ends of tractor go up/down at same time, so most times can't have implements on at same time.  Looks like nice box. I would like something like that for my gravel drive. Small enough not to load up and stall you, yet big enough to make the work worth it. Not sure I would have that tooth bar with linkage like that, but will watch to see how that works. I've just used boxes with teeth you take out.  There are times you need those teeth, gravel can pack down hard and need loosening before grading for sure.


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