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How big should I make it?

box blade

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#1 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 12:05 AM

Hi all, my next project is to build a box blade to use with the PK and I'm wonder how big I can go, I have a 60" blade from a IH Cub, its a heavy duty blade thinking the end plates would be 12" H and 16" L Thinking that 60" might be to much for the PK to handle my first thought was to cut it down to 42" whats the groups thinking?
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#2 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 12:17 AM

I had a Ariens GT with a CAT.0 3 point and had a big very heavy Brinly 60 inch grader. It was a very nice set up,it could be tilted or angled and could be spun clear around on the tractor. It weighted 200 plus pounds. I also had a 54 inch blade on the front of it. With loaded ags and weights. The tractor looked like a Ditch witch machine.


Edited by rustyoldjunk, December 31, 2014 - 12:20 AM.

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#3 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 01:44 AM

60 is pretty wide.  I think 48-50 would be about right for a PK.

????


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#4 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 05:20 AM

I would think I would want it just a little wider than the rear tires. I don't know how wide a power king is , but that's what I would do. Noel
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#5 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 05:28 AM

A PK will handle a 60" rear grader blade just fine.  60" is ideal because you can angle the blade and still cover your tracks.  Certain conditions will bog you down but it's never been a real issue.  For a box blade, keep it around 48" - 50".  These typically don't angle so there's no need to worry about that.  Box blades also gather more material than a straight blade and will quickly become a load that is too heavy to pull.

 

It's important to point out here that you will need to make sure you have some weight on the rear wheels of that tractor.  When you use the box blade, material will build up fast and make it quite heavy.  A PK will spin before it ever runs out of power.  Use the box blade in the float position to avoid being stopped cold.  I personally have never owned or used a box blade.  I am going by my experiences with a grader blade.  It just makes sense that the box blade will gather material faster, after all, that's what it's designed to do, gather material and send it off nice and level from under the blade.


Edited by David Brown, December 31, 2014 - 05:41 AM.

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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 05:28 AM

I would think I would want it just a little wider than the rear tires. I don't know how wide a power king is , but that's what I would do. Noel

I agree! Be sure to add in for any weights sticking out past the tires. That way you can still get it in close to things if needed. I built mine to 50" wide as that was what I had for metal. 54" might be good with your tractor.


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#7 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 07:11 AM

I agree! Be sure to add in for any weights sticking out past the tires. That way you can still get it in close to things if needed. I built mine to 50" wide as that was what I had for metal. 54" might be good with your tractor.

Didn't you do a nice thread on building one last year?


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#8 toppop52 ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 07:27 AM

I used a 5 footer on my MF 1855 but it had loaded 26/12/12 ags and a front end loader.


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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 08:01 AM

Didn't you do a nice thread on building one last year?

Yep! It's here Box Blade Dilema.


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#10 Auburn David OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 10:39 AM

Just slightly wider than the rear tires is how I build them.


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#11 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 10:57 AM

I had boughten 60" box and it was too heavy once filled up with gravel.  Lost traction and this is with 24" tires. It was kind of a heavy built thing for SUB Compacts, but if was little lighter metal may have been better.  I also think even with blade, must be wider than the wheels or else they are still out in the deeper snow or ?? and will spin in that and get no clear ground for traction. Plus in snow it knocks it all back into cleared area then too. Learning to actually Grade with a blade is hard. I ended up either digging deep spots or missing taking off the high spots as I wished to do. Blade goes up/down when front of tractor goes same and becomes a fight to control the cut and keep level.


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#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 12:28 PM

Yes, grading with a rear blade is a chore if you have an inconsistent surface and you can't get the top link short enough to keep the blade from digging in. What I do sometimes is turn the blade backwards. This is easy if the attachment frame is long enough for the blade to swivel 180 degees. This reverses the angle of the cutting edge and makes it way less aggressive. Gauge wheels are a great option for grading. You may be able to DIY some for a low cost. I sold my 60" grader blade. I just never used it much. I'd like to get a box blade some day but used ones are hard to find locally. 


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#13 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 01:42 PM

Hi all, thanks for the replies I appreciate it here's what I'm thinking, I have a 60" 3 pt grader blade so the box blade's use will be more for move dirt and not blading. So I don't think it needs to be as wide as the rear wheels and as posted it will fill up with dirt / gravel etc and become heavy and hard to pull and losing traction is / could be a problem, the rear tires are ballasted and I'm getting some wheel wts for the rear wheels. As for leveling / grading I built a clone DR power grader a few yrs ago and it work good. My trying to decide how I want to build thinking about a Gannon clone or another  type I found on the web that has retractable rippers. Thinking 42" wide blade, end plates 12" high and 16" long  with 5 /6 ripper teeth, I like the idea of the Gannon roll over feature but is a lot more work to fabricate  and now I'm going to read KennyP's build thread. here's a video of retractable ripper teeth that I like also.

So let me know what you think, I'm finishing up the Sleeve hitch for the PK today then it to figure out what to do on the box blade.

101_0043.JPG 101_0045.JPG


Edited by MNGB, December 31, 2014 - 02:08 PM.

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#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 01:50 PM

The blade I 'rebuilt' works great behind the FF's. I can drag around a box full with out a lot of issues, but it isn't as deep as you are building.


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#15 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 08:07 PM

Well I decided to go with 48" so I cut the blade and cutting edge at 48" that's as far as I got this afternoon.

Question KennyP I read in your thread that you fabricated your own rippers how are they working did you heat treat them?

HPIM1794.JPG HPIM1795.JPG


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