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Bolens 1886-01

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#1 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 06:17 PM

Just bought this;
image.jpg
image.jpg

I bought two large frames last summer. And, after getting my HT 23 going, I needed parts for my HT 20.
When I saw the ad on C/L I just about bought this site unseen! ( it was cheap!)

Now, the problem is, this is too good to be a parts machine.
Aside from that fine patina, it's a pretty solid and complete machine.
It's big problem is the input shaft to the hydro is worn.
I'm thinking, pull the pump, disassemble, TIG weld up the shaft and turn it?

Joe
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#2 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 06:33 PM

Do you have a photo to show how bad the shaft is?


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#3 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 07:00 PM

Do you have a photo to show how bad the shaft is?

Sorry no picture of that yet.
I've only seen it in the daylight briefly!
Got my hand under there and shook the yoke on the shaft.
Seemed like an 1/8" of slop to me.

Another picture;
image.jpg
Love that metal dash!
And all the decals are in real good shape too.

Thanks,
Joe
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#4 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 07:10 PM

Rather than weld it have you thought about brazing it with hard rod?  I had some hay baler pick up bars that were worn bad.  The welding shop brazed them up while I slowly turned the bars. Then they ground it back down to size again.  They did not have to fit precise as it was just a loose fit.  Something to think about.


Edited by chieffan, December 30, 2014 - 07:11 PM.


#5 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 07:23 PM

Rather than weld it have you thought about brazing it with hard rod?  I had some hay baler pick up bars that were worn bad.  The welding shop brazed them up while I slowly turned the bars. Then they ground it back down to size again.  They did not have to fit precise as it was just a loose fit.  Something to think about.

 

Sorry but that's the last thing that should be used on this problem.


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#6 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 09:33 PM

I'm not a welder.
I'll take it to a professional.
My machinist is next door to him.
I'll put the shaft in their hands and trust them!

Joe

#7 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 09:43 PM

When you say 'it was cheap', exactly how cheap are we.....

Never mind, I don't want to know. Depression, mixed with jealousy, is no way to go to sleep.
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#8 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 09:52 PM

I'm not a welder.
I'll take it to a professional.
My machinist is next door to him.
I'll put the shaft in their hands and trust them!

Joe

 

 

Just fyi these are not just a simple shaft.


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#9 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 12:22 AM

When you say 'it was cheap', exactly how cheap are we.....
Never mind, I don't want to know. Depression, mixed with jealousy, is no way to go to sleep.


That's right.
You'd be happier if you didn't know!
And I don't like to gloat.

Well, I do, but I'm resisting.

Joe
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#10 WrenchinOnIt ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 08:09 AM

It's always good to plan ahead, but IMO you need to pull the fender pan and take a good look at the driveshaft , the shape the yoke is in that goes onto the pump shaft. I have found on a couple of my 1886 that how far it engages onto the input shaft was the issue, I addressed the problem on one with a two piece driveshaft, and in another by removing the thru bolt on the drive shaft yoke, crankshaft end, if it doesn't have set screws drill & tap it for a couple , the crankshaft is keyed into the yoke and you have more length to slide it back onto the pump's shaft, I agreed with WilburJ as far as your plans for the shaft, you may find it cheaper to look for a good used pump ( if the input shaft is the problem) or a used input shaft. I have good used parts for the Eaton pump , I can hook you up with a good used shaft if you decide to go that route. Good luck with your project 1886's are nice units.
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#11 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 09:12 AM

I took a look at it this morning, before heading of to work.
The PO took most of the bolts out of the seat pan.
But, there is two nuts on studs to secure the seat pan to the column.
They don't look like fun to remove!
My HT 23 just has unthreaded studs there.
Maybe I'll take a crack at it after work.

Joe
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#12 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2015 - 12:33 PM

I finally got the seat pan off.
I measure the slop in the drive shaft end to be .020-.030"
I have two broken blades on the cooling fan as well.
That must be a Sunstrand trans?

Joe
image.jpg
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#13 WrenchinOnIt ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2015 - 12:46 PM

No it's an Eaton 12 , your HT 20 has a Sundstrand 15, and your HT 23 has a Eaton 11
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#14 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2015 - 12:53 PM

If you need some good used Eaton parts, WrenchinOnIt(Kevin) is a good guy to go to,and I agree,those are nice tractors, my first LF was a 1250,then I bought an 1886,all around better machine,can't beat that twin cylinder Kohler


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#15 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2015 - 12:58 PM

Power wash and pull the rearend.... 


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