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Need to work on the 94 Ford F150


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#1 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 08:56 AM

The truck has been in need of at least new ball joints and maybe some bushings on the front end for some time now. I am really surprised it passed inspection this last time. Inspection is coming due again in March. There are also quite a few other issues that need to be dealt with and one of them will definitely not allow it to pass inspection.

 

Here is the list of items that need attention:

  • Ball joints
  • Maybe kingpins, I think it has kingpins since it has the twin I-beam suspension and would basically be the same as what I had on my 72 F100
  • Air bad light is blinking
  • Turn signal / wiper control needs replaced
  • Ignition switch needs replaced

 

I know Ford used the twin I-Beam suspension for so many years and on the 72 F100 I had, I replaced the I-beams with lowered ones and also replaced the kingpins and put disc brakes on it. I think the 94 is no different but honestly I haven't really crawled under it to look and when I have been under it, it was to change the oil. The truck has 94,000 miles on it. I would imagine the kingpins may be in alright shape but it is the bushings and ball joints that need replaced? 

 

The turn signal / wiper switch has always been goofy. Mainly on the delay wiper settings. Sometimes they work fine, other times they stop and if you tap the switch they start working again.

 

Ignition switch is a big pain in the arse. You can have the ignition on and basically pull the key out. Sometimes when trying to start it the key is turned inside the switch and it is a pain to get it straightened out. What is going to suck about replacing the ignition switch is then the door locks and ignition won't match.

 

The biggest one for inspection is going to be the air bag light. The code it is throwing is for the clock spring behind the steering wheel. 

 

If you have any tips on any of these I would love to hear them.


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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 09:01 AM

The key: if you take it to Ford or a Locksmith, they should be able to rekey the tumblers so they match. You may be able to order the switch & tumbler set from Ford, worth pricing anyways.
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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 09:04 AM

Don't wait on balljoints! When I was 17, I had just gotten off the Interstate and turned into a parking lot when the right upper on my car let go. The tire fell over and scarred the crap out of me. If it had let go one minute before we would have been ground under a bunch of 18 wheelers. Northern Auto and Rock Auto have great prices on parts. Good Luck, Rick



#4 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 09:33 AM

I needed a ball joint for my 01 chevy for inspection last month.Mine were pressed in and I didn't feel like messing with that.I just bought a new control arm.Had new bushings,and ball joint already in.Alot less headache.Everything was new that way,and it wasn't that much more.I had to get an alignment done afterwards but it needed that anyway.I'm not a Ford Guy and not familiar with the I beam suspension so can't help you there.



#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 10:14 AM

Yep George, gotta get her ready before Ball Hollow/GTtalk Plow Days next fall!  :thumbs:



#6 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 10:46 AM

George, your truck will have ball joints, no kingpins. It's either one or the other but not both. Put the jack under the axle and check for up and down or side to side movement.

 

You can buy an uncoded ignition switch and have it coded to your key. Check with a lock shop if there is one in your area. On a Ford, the front half of the cutouts are for the ignition and the back half is for the doors. If you can find a precoded switch with the same key code, all you need to do is have the door side cut in the new keys.There will be a pin in thebottom of the cylinder. Turn the ignition on and press in the pin and the cyl will come out.

 

A clock spring isn't hard to change. Mainly pulling the steering wheel. Disconnect the battery and wait a while and you should be fine. Taking the neg cable off the battery and touching it to the positive cable is a sure way to make sure everything is powered down. You can also change the wiper combo switch at the same time.


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#7 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 12:23 PM

   my best suggestion would be to jack up the radiator cap and back a chevy ender there. :D.  In all honesty the first thing I would do is crawl under there and soak everythi8ng with a good penetration oil, do it two or three times the week before you start the work that will save you a ton of hassle.  otherwise get a good Chilton manual and have at it.  you ignition should come out with a little pin under the switch on the column, you have to turn the key to acc pos then push up in the hole under the switch with a small wire and then the whole tumbler should come rite out.  Probably not coded, should be just a key and tumbler. turn signal should be basic and I am not sure about the air bag light, here in ny the air bag light will not reject the insp.

    Ball joints and tie rode my only suggestion would be to do it all at one time, rebuild the entire front end in one shot, upper and lower joints complete tie rod assy including the pitman arm then send it out to get it aligned, if you don't something will break or get loose 2 months from now and you will just need to get it re-aligned. 

         Pete


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#8 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 01:11 PM

Good advice there. Minus the chevy part! You'd have to push the chevy under the radiator cap.

Buy some good mechanics gloves so you don't skin up your knuckles from all the sliced wrenches on frozen bolts.


Maybe a torch to heat stuff up too

Edited by toomanytoys84, December 28, 2014 - 01:13 PM.

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#9 Enginerod OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 01:29 PM

George, your truck will have ball joints, no kingpins. It's either one or the other but not both. Put the jack under the axle and check for up and down or side to side movement.

 

You can buy an uncoded ignition switch and have it coded to your key. Check with a lock shop if there is one in your area. On a Ford, the front half of the cutouts are for the ignition and the back half is for the doors. If you can find a precoded switch with the same key code, all you need to do is have the door side cut in the new keys.There will be a pin in thebottom of the cylinder. Turn the ignition on and press in the pin and the cyl will come out.

 

A clock spring isn't hard to change. Mainly pulling the steering wheel. Disconnect the battery and wait a while and you should be fine. Taking the neg cable off the battery and touching it to the positive cable is a sure way to make sure everything is powered down. You can also change the wiper combo switch at the same time.

DougT is right on, also there is an alignment shim in the I-beam where the upper ball joint goes through, put a mark on it

and the I-beam before removing the ball joint in case it moves, this way you can make sure it stays in its original position.    Bill.


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#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 01:53 PM

What's wrong with a good shop or garage fixing it?  Older I get, less I wish to do and just take it in and pay the bill when it's done. We're both happy when I pick it up.  I don't work in the cold anymore. So many newer truck suspension parts come as assembly's now and you may need to get things like that, rather than rebuild. Shops might charge extra to align and change your work to make it right and adjustable!! Heh! AND, me doing it is several days........a good shop  a day or maybe two if little harder.  Things like switches and key sets you can maybe do. Not sure what it is like to work on key switches myself or to get into the modern columns. Airbags are biggest scare to me. Pay a shop to fix it right and safely!


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#11 tater195 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 03:02 PM

I had to do alot of front end work to my sons 94 4wd a few years ago. Ball joints were bid at $650 to replace. I replaced the ball joints, 6 ujoints, shocks, brakes and rotors for under $400 (plus a day and a half of knuckle busting). It was easier to shot gun it and replace everything while I had it a part.  I had a hard time finding the outer axle seals and got the wrong ball joints from Oreillys twice, asked for front shocks and got rear, but the balljoint press I rented ($125 charged to your card, you get all of that back when you return it) made it alot easier. The plasma cutter came it handy, too. 

 

One thing to check when you are in there, is the slack in the steering box. Tighten that up and it will drive like a different truck.


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#12 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 03:06 PM

What's wrong with a good shop or garage fixing it? Older I get, less I wish to do and just take it in and pay the bill when it's done. We're both happy when I pick it up. I don't work in the cold anymore. So many newer truck suspension parts come as assembly's now and you may need to get things like that, rather than rebuild. Shops might charge extra to align and change your work to make it right and adjustable!! Heh! AND, me doing it is several days........a good shop a day or maybe two if little harder. Things like switches and key sets you can maybe do. Not sure what it is like to work on key switches myself or to get into the modern columns. Airbags are biggest scare to me. Pay a shop to fix it right and safely!


Stealer ship or Joe bobs repair will likely rip you off in one form or another. I had a guy quote me 250 dollars to do rotors and brakes. Not new rotors "turned" rotors. Put new brakes and pads on it for 90 dollars.
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#13 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2014 - 09:14 AM

   my best suggestion would be to jack up the radiator cap and back a chevy ender there. :D.  

         Pete

 

I knew I liked this guy for some reason  :rocker2:  :D

 

George, going through the same thing with the boys 93 Bronco, he needs front end work on his. I have already replaced the bushings and brackets on the radius arms going to frame, now we have a caster issue which maybe ball joint related.

I do know the upper ball joints have a offset indexed cam for caster/camber adjustments. They need to come out when replacing ball joints. 

Do a search on youtube, there are several good videos on ball joint replacement for the newest design of the twin i-beam. I think 96 was last year for it, I know it was in the Broncos. 


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#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2014 - 11:41 AM

Does this help at all ?  Let me know if you need more info  about pressing them out and in

Attached Thumbnails

  • f150.jpg
  • f150a.jpg

Edited by Alc, December 29, 2014 - 11:42 AM.

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#15 Jazz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2014 - 02:08 PM

Can you borrow the tool kit for removing ball joints. Locally the parts vendors all have a array of tools they loan out free of charge. If you don't return them within 3 days YOU OWN 'EM!  I have had to do ball joints a few times on those fords as well not surprised the ignition giving you trouble. Our local locksmith carries spares in his truck for the fords i know from 85 to 94. The signal switch you have to remove steering wheel....best to buy a new signal switch as the plastic tabs break off with age...YEP..tried used ones,,,two weeks later I was yanking the steering wheel off  again.  Good luck with that.


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