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1968 Custom 10 XL Tecumseh Specification Number?


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#1 LStrodtman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2014 - 03:12 PM

Hello, all

 

I recently latched onto the 1968 Custom 10 XL that my dad bought back in the 80's for his rental house.  Over the course of time, the machine has fallen into serious disrepair, and I'd like to get it back fighting shape.  Before going too far, though, I need to obtain a carburetor body (ear broken off in a bad way) and ignition components.

 

The ignition parts are mostly under the flywheel and are battered to death; my guess is they were loose and someone cranked the engine over.  I keep reading the parts for these engines are NLA, and that switching over to some Hall Effect system is the cat's meow.  I figured I'd ask here to get the low-down from folks who may have had the same problem locating parts, or even someone who had used the fancy new systems.

 

In my shopping around for a replacement HH100 carburetor, I found a lot listed with either no application listed, or being listed for a snow blower.  While I normally would think it wouldn't matter, the fact a snow blower only operates in cold weather got me thinking my engine may not get along for very long if used on a 102 degree July day.  The Tecumseh manual's cross reference chart indicates that my engine is a HH100, but it doesn't list the Specification Number I need to order parts!    I tried getting parts/replacement carb using the Lauson "466" number and crossing it to a Tecumseh part number, but that led me nowhere.  Truth be told, I don't know that the carburetor I have is correct.  Can you all help me out with what Tecumseh part numbers I can use to find parts for my machine?

 

Tractor Data

917.25260  Serial:  4099

 

Engine Data

Model:  143.589022

Serial:  8193 08079

 

Carburetor Data
Lauson: 466  4M19  Has a "38" cast into it.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

-Loren



#2 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2014 - 06:38 PM

Loren, your HH100 model number is a HH100-115098B.

 

That model number does not come up online, so I'll dig out the Tecumseh book and get some part numbers for you this evening. 

 

Carburetors are fairly easy to find, just not always in good shape.  You have to be discriminatory. 

 

Do you have a condenser and point ignition system or the big solid state box above the flywheel?  If you have condenser and points, there is no good way to redo the ignition without replacing the damaged coil and similar parts.  If you have solid state ignition, there are options. 

 

Tell me what is under the flywheel.  Is it a coil and charging coils for the electrical or just a stator? 

 

Ben W.


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#3 LStrodtman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2014 - 09:07 PM

This mess is what I have! I'm new to this system, so I dont know why the thing needs two coils and a GM HEI module...

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3a9d361d61

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2014 - 09:35 PM

Tecumseh used no less than three different ways to make a spark on the hh100.
Lets start with step one: which does the module above the flywheel most look like?
1image.jpg
2image.jpg
3image.jpg
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#5 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 07:35 AM

Alan, he has the early style SSI system #3

 

Loren, if you want a direct replacement, pretty much plug and pay, then check out Dale Colvert's Overnight Solutions ignition, it's basically a bolt on, not sure if he has the charge coil thought hat generates the juice which is you ring part under the flywheel.

If that doesn't light your fancy, check out Ed Stoller's engines and magnets site or even BRian Millers garden tractor pulling tips.

You can click the link in my sig, it's for a 16 hp Overhead motor, but same principle and I have other links inside my thread.

 

For the carb, the 10 Hp Tec came mostly with the Walbro LME carb, at least my 68 12 Hp did. You may get lucky to find a used one somewhere. Last resort, a  carb from a 8Hp Kohler will bolt on and run that motor well, you just have to make new throttle/choke linkages. 


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#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 08:47 AM

Marty,
I didnt (and still don't) see where that has been confirmed. I was just trying to verify what exactly we are dealing with.
If he does have number three, the flywheel may not have the pickup pins. If no pins, then the trigger is under the flywheel and the engines and magnets stuff won't work without the pins, last I knew the overnight solution needs them too.

Your solution may not need the pins, but it does need the pickup magnet.

If he doesn't have the pins, it will mean some additional work, just making sure which way to help direct him.

#7 LStrodtman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 11:34 AM

Fellows,
My coil most resembles number three, and the high voltage lead is cut clear down to the wire. Ive checked out the Overnight Solutions website, and will look into the others as well to learn more about what is available. I like the idea of basically a bolt on system! I'll look again, but I dont believe my flywheel has pins. There are magnet(s) inside the flywheel. If I need to add pins to get her running, I have a machinest nearby.

Thanks, everyone, for the help.
Tahoe, I will check out your ssi photos as soon as I post this!

-Loren

#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2014 - 01:39 PM

Yes, you will need to add the pins or a magnet like Tahoe did.
I believe his magnet is at 17 degrees before TDC, verify that, but that's where the short pin should be on the flywheel.

#9 drbish OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2014 - 07:56 AM

Fellows,
My coil most resembles number three, and the high voltage lead is cut clear down to the wire. Ive checked out the Overnight Solutions website, and will look into the others as well to learn more about what is available. I like the idea of basically a bolt on system! I'll look again, but I dont believe my flywheel has pins. There are magnet(s) inside the flywheel. If I need to add pins to get her running, I have a machinest nearby.

Thanks, everyone, for the help.
Tahoe, I will check out your ssi photos as soon as I post this!

-Loren

Loren,

 you might  want to check on this craigslist ad

http://columbia.crai...4823114086.html

or this complete engine,you might get him to ship

http://charlotte.cra...4811992432.html

00C0C_dgrxIbEy5b6_600x450.jpg


Edited by drbish, December 29, 2014 - 08:00 AM.

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#10 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2014 - 08:53 AM

Marty,
I didnt (and still don't) see where that has been confirmed. I was just trying to verify what exactly we are dealing with.
If he does have number three, the flywheel may not have the pickup pins. If no pins, then the trigger is under the flywheel and the engines and magnets stuff won't work without the pins, last I knew the overnight solution needs them too.

Your solution may not need the pins, but it does need the pickup magnet.

If he doesn't have the pins, it will mean some additional work, just making sure which way to help direct him.

 

When I made my statement, I went off the evilbay link Loren posted thus stating he had the early version. 

 

Loren, unless you have the know how and parts connections, whatever ignition system you go with, it will run $150. or more. Dale does have a system that will convert your engine over, but I see that it will make it a battery-coil based system thus still needing some type of charging system. The newer SSI modules on the overhead valve motors are a self sufficient system once running, battery is only needed for starting motor. Most conversion though convert that system to a battery-coil thus needing charging system. I am relatively unfamiliar with the older systems, most of my work/research has surrounded the newer style SSI l modules. 

The guy who designed my system figured the OH120/140/160 had the advance timing pin set at around 23-25*. I can measure pins, but guess that won't help much since I have a pin for TDC as reference, not sure how to relate that to a non pinned flywheel.


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