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Bringing My Ford LGT 165 Back to Life

ford lgt 165 repower 1977 ford lgt 165 k341 engine swap

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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 07:40 AM

With all the posts about 'repowering' these tractors, I thought I should get a thread started on this. I bought this old Ford several years back in very sad shape. The engine smoked worse than a freight train. I pulled the engine and installed new rings, hoping to do a proper rebuild at a later date. I also took out the balance gears, as I didn't want a hand grenade under the hood. It ran fine for some time, then one day while mowing it decided it had enough. After a small screech and faint clunk, the engine stopped firing as the crank shaft slowed to a stop. I parked it, as at the time I hadn't the $ to rebuild the engine. After seeing a few threads here, I came to the conclusion the piston must have separated at the oil rings.

 

Now, nearly 2 years later, I have a very smooth running K341S that I plan to install. The original engine is a K341AQS. I did some home work and find this engine should be a direct bolt in other than the oil pan. This I will change once both engines are pulled from their respective tractors. The engine is coming out of an Allis Chalmers 416S that I purchased for parts for my other 416S.

If weather holds, I plan to start this 'repower' soon. Of course, pics will be taken and posted.

 

I miss this Ford. I love the foot pedal hydro on it. Plus this will give me a tractor/tiller package, along with the snow blade and mower. Hopefully, I can have the Ford up to the shop by this weekend to start taking it apart.

 

There are several threads on this tractor on here as I documented most everything I have done to it. Just search for any of my threads on this tractor and implements. I still need a proper seat for it, but that may get taken care of this Spring.


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#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 09:30 AM

Sounds good Kenny. I'd like to have one of those LGTs myself. The fact that it has foot hydro and is big and strong enough to do some real work make it a great choice for an all around worker IMO. 


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 09:49 AM

The only issue with the foot pedal is possibly while plowing, especially if you don't have enough weight on the left side. But it has the 2500 Peerless, so that helps in the traction area. It'll be fun to drive once again!



#4 TomLGT195 ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 01:06 PM

Do you mean moldboard plow? yah that could be a pain , but snow plow it was much nicer .  Maybe you could make a lock similar to what does the brake . maybe a flip lever that's easy to reach with the foot.


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#5 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 01:17 PM

Watch those blocks and pans for not being the same pattern, or the bolt holes not threaded?  I had one once, was going to change to the smaller pan with inner bolts. Block had the bolt holes drilled already, no threads. Put in the threads OK. Then noticed one block had bulge each side that matched bulge in big pan, but no bulge in small pan. Would be open at those bulges. Wooaoaah! I did find fella who had metal adapter plate to use between them. Needed gasket of diff kinds on each side of it. Seemed it would work, but sold before actually together. Keep eye out for that problem.

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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 06:42 PM

I think Jake is mad at me as I took the Ag's off it to put back on the LGT. But they are needed so I can bring the Ford up here. Tomorrow should be much better as far as temps go. I used my new Hitachi impact driver to change the wheels. Made short work of that. I'll use it a bunch on this repower!


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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 09:51 AM

If it will warm a bit more, I plan to get the Ford moved up today and pull the engine. Then it's getting things off it to put on the other one to stuff back in. Right now it's right at 40°, but the wind chill is around 27°. Just a bit chilly!



#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 10:44 AM

Watch those blocks and pans for not being the same pattern, or the bolt holes not threaded?  I had one once, was going to change to the smaller pan with inner bolts. Block had the bolt holes drilled already, no threads. Put in the threads OK. Then noticed one block had bulge each side that matched bulge in big pan, but no bulge in small pan. Would be open at those bulges. Wooaoaah! I did find fella who had metal adapter plate to use between them. Needed gasket of diff kinds on each side of it. Seemed it would work, but sold before actually together. Keep eye out for that problem.

I think I have ran into that problem, GL! The blocks are different down by the pan. Glad I decided to investigate further. Guess the Ford will just have to wait a bit longer!

Here's the K341S block:

DSCN0090.JPG

 

Here's the K341AQS:

DSCN0091.JPG

 

Now I have to figure out something else to do today!



#9 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 11:01 AM

Try finding a JD 216 with a decent engine. They used a K341AQS.
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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 11:06 AM

I could probably have my engine totally rebuilt at a shop cheaper than one of those cost around here!



#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 11:20 AM

Some AQS engines have the block ears like yours Kenny, but without the notch on the underside.  An example is Massey 1650.  They have the special narrow pan, but use the ears on the upper block for the engine mounts.  But unfortunately your upper block is designed with the standard wide pan, so the upper block will have the notches.


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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 11:28 AM

Some AQS engines have the block ears like yours Kenny, but without the notch on the underside.  An example is Massey 1650.  They have the special narrow pan, but use the ears on the upper block for the engine mounts.  But unfortunately your upper block is designed with the standard wide pan, so the upper block will have the notches.

The block with the 'wide' spots is the K341S in the Allis. Oh well. Guess I won't be getting the Ford running after all! At least not this Winter!



#13 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 11:41 AM

I could probably have my engine totally rebuilt at a shop cheaper than one of those cost around here!


Don't be negative. It's Christmas!
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#14 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 11:47 AM

Isn't it odd these differences? Wonder why they exist?  Tork and strength forces really diff with diff castings and needed those little bump-outs?  Wonder why they just didnt make all pans smaller and bolt up underneath for all the engines? Would be no broken off feet/mounts that way also. Guess we're not the engineers now are we?


Edited by glgrumpy, December 25, 2014 - 11:48 AM.

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#15 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2014 - 11:51 AM

Isn't it odd these differences? Wonder why they exist?  Tork and strength forces really diff with diff castings and needed those little bump-outs?  Wonder why they just didnt make all pans smaller and bolt up underneath for all the engines? Would be no broken off feet/mounts that way also. Guess we're not the engineers now are we?

 

On the "bumpouts with the notches....the notches allowed for drilling the casting there to incorporate a dipstick tube there.  For use as direct engine mounts, they simply cast without the notches on the underside.  Both style upper blocks have the 4 internal threaded holes to mount either style pan.


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