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Sheared engine mounting bolts - Meteor 1010


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#1 TGaffney OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 09:50 PM

Long stroy short - I have three sheared engine mounting bolts on my Meteor 1010.

 

I was plowing/smoothing an area for an ice hocky rink when I noticed friction lowering the attachment lever.  Took a look and found out the engine was holding in place by only one bolt - three were sheared.

 

A previous owner replaced the original HH100 with a newer HH100 which apparently was slightly larger which necessitated making some modifications to the mount - at leas this is my guess.  So the two L shaped mouting brackets (see pictures) were raised with 1" aluminum spacers, the bolt holes on the mounting brackets were enlarged, and a mounting plate which also has oversized holes was added between the mouting brackets and the engine.  The rubber isolaters were between the mounting plate and the engine. 

 

My guess is the bolt holes were enlarged to allow for extra movement to align the new engine.  I believe the force I was exerting on the engine/mounting bracket by occassionally hitting roots etc - which stopped stopped the tractor dead in its tracks a few times - caused the engine to slide back and forth in the oversized bolt holes  - which eventually led to the shear failure.

 

So - what I am looking for is some advice/input in how this engine is supposed to be mounted on the tractor?  Are the rubber isolators supposed to be between the frame and the L brackers or be between the L brackets and the engine?  

 

I am considering reversing and flipping the L brackets 180 degrees, and then drilling new tighter holes so there is less slop.  Or I could keep the holes and try to figure out a bushing set up to cushion the mounting bolts in the oversized holes.

 

Any input or suggestions on the best way to preven this from occuring again would be appreciated. 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • meteorbracket2.JPG
  • meteorbracket4.JPG

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#2 hamman ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 10:55 PM

I'm not a PJ owner or expert, but here is my 2 cents worth. I would measure the distance between the centers of the holes and then weld the old hole shut and drill new ones the diameter of new bolts that will fit the engine. This would make a stable platform and it would not move at all. If there are rubber insulators they could be reinstalled when installing the engine. Again JM2CW and I hope it may help some. I'm sure someone who is more versed in the unit will come along and help you.   Good luck.                                                                                                                                                                                      Roger.


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#3 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 09:18 AM

The rubber isolators go between the L-brackets and the tabs on the frame where your aluminum spacers are now. The engine then just bolts directly to the L-brackets, no mounting plate at all. The parts diagram shows the front engine mount holes on the L-bracket to be the correct size with the rear holes slotted. I've had my engine off and I don't remember any of the holes being slotted at all. Either way, I'd think that if you're using good hardware tightened correctly there shouldn't be an issue.

Edited by Canawler, December 19, 2014 - 09:19 AM.

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#4 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 06:08 PM

never heard of a "Meteor" tractor. who made it?



#5 TGaffney OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 10:51 PM

Thanks gentleman - I will change where the isolators are located and will figure out the best approach time and cost wise on the mounting hole issue.  Thank you for your input.



#6 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 11:53 AM

never heard of a "Meteor" tractor. who made it?


Meteors were produced by Pennsylvania Lawn Products. They were essentially a hydrostatic drive Panzer, but only in the later square body style.
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#7 TGaffney OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2015 - 05:25 AM

Checking back in on the Meteor 1010 with the sheared bolts.  I took the engine to a welder to remove the broken bolts and he was able to completely remove 2 and most of the third.  I reinstalled the engine with the rubber isolators positioned as suggested by Canawaler (see pic) - but boy does the engine vibrate now (see video).Attached File  IMG_0552.MOV   4.84MB   12 downloadsIMG_0548.JPG

 

Did I goof up on this?  Any suggestions?






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