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Fixing/cleaning tr10d engine


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#46 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2014 - 03:20 PM

Probably best buying your gear cover gasket and stator plate shim gasket as those are in thousandths and its critical you use the correct size.


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#47 dlang94 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2015 - 10:26 PM

The engines starting to come together
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420514773.256936.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420514781.337664.jpg
Piston rings are installed so is the piston and connecting rod
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#48 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2015 - 09:01 AM

Looking good, did you hone the cylinder?

Also make sure you torque your connecting rod to specs.


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#49 dlang94 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2015 - 01:26 PM

I let my cousin hone it, and I torqued the rod and other parts that had a torque rating. The engine is back in with the clutch and drive shaft hooked up.

If anyone has pictures of the front and sides of the engine hooked up to their d4-10 I would appreciate it if you would post them. I should have taken pictures before I pulled it out.

Edited by dlang94, January 07, 2015 - 01:27 PM.


#50 dlang94 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2015 - 05:18 PM

I figured it out just a few more things with the throttle to get hooked up a picture of the carburetor side would still be helpful.
Thanks Bolens 1000 for the parts!
It runs, haven't driven it yet I was freezing by the time everything was done. Soon ill have my wood-stove and the rest of my workshop moved from the shed to garage. One funny thing, I got it all hooked to the tractor put the key in tried to start it it was spinning and trying to start I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start and went to shut the key off, I had never turned the key..

Edited by dlang94, January 07, 2015 - 05:25 PM.

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#51 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2015 - 08:31 PM

Glad to hear you got it running!

 

Remember to break in your engine before putting it to regular use, With the partial rebuild I would say run the engine about 1/2 an hour  idling with no load then just keep doing light duty jobs for the first couple hours until you establish your new bearing surfaces and tolerances, avoid long periods of time with high rpm's during this process


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#52 d410 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2015 - 09:03 PM

Glad to hear you have it finished.

I'm rebuilding a tra10d engine off my D410. Did you find out anymore about the 1/2 bore? Mine also has the 1/2 stamped on the piston and block. The top 1/4" and the bottom of the bore was 3.1255 and 3.1250 definitely not .005 over. It doesn't really matter in my case the cylinder had a .002" belly in it so I bored it .010" over. It's just bugging me not knowing what the 1/2 is for.

#53 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2015 - 09:11 PM

Glad to hear you have it finished.

I'm rebuilding a tra10d engine off my D410. Did you find out anymore about the 1/2 bore? Mine also has the 1/2 stamped on the piston and block. The top 1/4" and the bottom of the bore was 3.1255 and 3.1250 definitely not .005 over. It doesn't really matter in my case the cylinder had a .002" belly in it so I bored it .010" over. It's just bugging me not knowing what the 1/2 is for.

I submitted a question about the 1/2 on the Wisconsin website and never got a response. Maybe they don't know or remember.


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