Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Fixing/cleaning tr10d engine


  • Please log in to reply
52 replies to this topic

#1 dlang94 OFFLINE  

dlang94
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 63471
  • 227 Thanks
  • 157 posts
  • Location: Rhode Island

Posted December 18, 2014 - 08:30 PM

"The engine gave me some problems, I changed the oil and added some sea-foam to it and added some sea-foam to the gas (new gas) was running fine then shut off and was locked up. Pulled the motor off and opened it, nothing seems broken and it moves free now. I plan to dissemble the engine and clean the inside parts as well as see if something needs replacing. I have never dissembled or rebuilt an engine before but found a manual online for the tr10d engine that tells how to rebuild it. I wont get to disassembling until tomorrow night or Saturday. The piston ring doesn't look right from what I could see. My concern is parts if something does need to be replaced. Any advice?"


Here are the pictures, I have a video of the inside and under the piston but cant see where to upload one.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418952562.936083.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418952570.671243.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418952577.321582.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418952583.505534.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418952589.722518.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418952599.639048.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418952609.092999.jpg

Edited by dlang94, December 18, 2014 - 08:34 PM.

  • Texas Deere and Horse, sacsr and Traill95 have said thanks

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,657 Thanks
  • 29,842 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted December 18, 2014 - 08:35 PM

There appears to be a wee bit too much clearance between the piston & cylinder wall, but what locked the engine is the rod at the crank journal.  It looks to me like aluminum flashing forced out from the crank journal end which is easily visible in the 5th pic.  Many times, once the seized rod cools, the engine will again rotate.


  • Texas Deere and Horse, IamSherwood, superaben and 1 other said thanks

#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted December 18, 2014 - 08:43 PM

There appears to be a wee bit too much clearance between the piston & cylinder wall, but what locked the engine is the rod at the crank journal.  It looks to me like aluminum flashing forced out from the crank journal end which is easily visible in the 5th pic.  Many times, once the seized rod cools, the engine will again rotate.

 

My thoughts as well.

 

Going to have to pull the Piston , crank and rod and see whats going on.

Looks to be another famous 1/2 over size block as well!


  • Texas Deere and Horse, superaben and dlang94 have said thanks

#4 superaben OFFLINE  

superaben
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 11204
  • 7,664 Thanks
  • 5,677 posts
  • Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

Posted December 18, 2014 - 09:58 PM

Brian and I both can get Wisconsin parts if you need parts.  They are never cheap, but they are still available.  Some you have to sleuth for.

 

Ben W.


  • Texas Deere and Horse and dlang94 have said thanks

#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted December 18, 2014 - 10:01 PM

Rod failure became quite common on these engines that still have the original sheet metal dippers. If I recall correctly they did not have any holes for oil to be fed to the crank the oil was just magically expected to find a way down the sides of the crank. 40 years of use and possibly riding on slopes where low oil coverage occured the rods just got dry and siezed.

 

I got about 5-6 on the shelf from when my Grandfather ran into this problem, They were all upgraded with the new DA83 rods which had a cast dipper and oil port built in them, a much better design!


  • Texas Deere and Horse, IamSherwood, superaben and 1 other said thanks

#6 dlang94 OFFLINE  

dlang94
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 63471
  • 227 Thanks
  • 157 posts
  • Location: Rhode Island

Posted December 18, 2014 - 11:16 PM

I knew that wasn't right just didn't know what the piece was that was broken, it must be something with the rod then, I'll take the piston and rod out.  I'll take some pictures when the parts out and try to figure out what I need. Thanks!



#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted December 18, 2014 - 11:38 PM

If the Crank has Aluminum on it, you can clean it off with Muriatic acid. It will take the Aluminum off and not hurt the steel crank. Once you get it all cleaned up, you can mic it to see if it's out of round.


  • dlang94 said thank you

#8 dlang94 OFFLINE  

dlang94
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 63471
  • 227 Thanks
  • 157 posts
  • Location: Rhode Island

Posted December 19, 2014 - 11:17 PM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419048900.857968.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419048908.259892.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419048960.629772.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419048967.031869.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419048984.042471.jpg
  • olcowhand said thank you

#9 dlang94 OFFLINE  

dlang94
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 63471
  • 227 Thanks
  • 157 posts
  • Location: Rhode Island

Posted December 20, 2014 - 08:48 AM

The rest will come out when I get a puller today.

#10 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted December 20, 2014 - 10:30 AM

That rod is definitely in horrible shape. Before you order parts and since you have it torn down this far I would take the block and have the bore measured and see if it is out of round and what it would need to be bored to. It doesn't cost much to have them punch it. Then you will know what size piston and rings to order. I have never had to clean aluminum off of the crank but quite a few recommend the murratic acid. I don't know how much a machine shop would charge to check and polish it. With how bad of shape that rod is in you may want to have the machine shop check the crank and make sure it's not going to need machined.

 

Out of curiosity how much sea foam did you put in the oil? 



#11 dlang94 OFFLINE  

dlang94
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 63471
  • 227 Thanks
  • 157 posts
  • Location: Rhode Island

Posted December 21, 2014 - 12:57 PM

I still need to get it fully broken down, the flywheel is stuck on. I put an ounce or 2 of sea-foam a shot glass worth probably.

Edited by dlang94, December 21, 2014 - 12:57 PM.


#12 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted December 21, 2014 - 01:27 PM

I still need to get it fully broken down, the flywheel is stuck on. I put an ounce or 2 of sea-foam a shot glass worth probably.

 

So you removed the backside before removing the flywheel?

 

I would put your cover back on and get a puller on the flywheel, thats the only way your going to get it off, you'll never be able to remove it with the crank loose and wobbly and may break something.....


  • olcowhand said thank you

#13 dlang94 OFFLINE  

dlang94
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 63471
  • 227 Thanks
  • 157 posts
  • Location: Rhode Island

Posted December 21, 2014 - 10:55 PM

I figured out that the fly wheel should have came off first. I've never rebuilt an engine before so I'm just using what I can learn online and trail and error.

Is there a tool to measure the cylinder myself and if it did need to be bored any suggestions on where.

Edited by dlang94, December 21, 2014 - 10:57 PM.

  • Texas Deere and Horse and sacsr have said thanks

#14 Titus OFFLINE  

Titus

    Bush Hog Hoarder

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 4216
  • 1,736 Thanks
  • 2,250 posts
  • Location: Coventry RI

Posted December 22, 2014 - 04:53 PM

Out in these parts, not too many local repair shops. Call around to motorcycle shops, Google will be your best friend, u tube too and it will show you everything you need to know.

 

A micrometer will measure the cylinder.


  • dlang94 said thank you

#15 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted December 27, 2014 - 02:20 PM

Is there a tool to measure the cylinder myself and if it did need to be bored any suggestions on where.

 

I use a inside micrometer or a set of snap gauges and outside micrometer which works just as well if you don't have inside mics.

 

Most engine machine shops also do small engine machining also, that's what I use. That would be your best bet since you have never done anything like this before. They can give you some pointers on your rebuild.


  • dlang94 said thank you




Top