36 replies to this topic

[stanz]

I made a bunch of progress this week:

 

I pulled the engine because it's easier to replace the starter that way.  While it was off I took the mounting plate and trimmed it to better fit the Bolens, about 1.5" off each side.  Now the sides of the plate line up with the frame rails.  The new starter is larger than the old one, but it fits just fine.  I assume it's a Chinese copy since it was only $35 on ebay.  I've purchased from the seller before, a motor for my plow setup, good stuff.

 

Everything went back together smoothly and I installed the new carb. Since the engine hasn't been run in years I put some oil in the cylinders and turned it over with the plugs out.  I installed the plugs, tied the old tank to the steering wheel and started it up.  Once the oil burned off the smoking stopped and it ran smooth.  But then .... I decided to punch it to see how it performed and oil started leaking onto the exhaust.  I assume the head gasket blew, oh well, that's easy enough to fix.

 

I need to get a new throttle cable since the original is too short. The choke cable was dead when I got the tractor so that needs to be replaced as well.  I've decided to keep the battery in front and put a gas tank in the rear.  The battery space is right near the exhaust and I'd rather not have a tank of gas there.

 

The picture below shows the test rig, ugly, but effective:

 

[stanz]

The oil leak appears to be a false alarm. I pulled the side cover off and found oil around the spark plug hole. I must have been over zealous when I put oil in the cylinders. I cleaned the oil off the head and it's fine. Now I just need to button everything up and mount a gas tank.

[stanz]

Well, I'm not going to be ready for the snow, it's snowing as I write this!  I'm waiting on new throttle and choke cables from Tube Frame Restorations and tubes for the rear tires.  Here's an update with pictures for anyone thinking about doing this:

 

I had some 2" thick walled tubing laying around so I used two pieces to create a base for a box to hold my fuel tank and some weight.  They're bolted to the chassis under the tool tray. I replaced the 1" bolts with 3" to anchor the whole thing.

 

I had an old military box that serves my needs well, the tank holds about 5 gallons and there's about 100 pounds of weights in it. They were salvaged from an exercise machine.

 

 

Here's a view from underneath:

 

 

I removed the old brace and belt guard from the old Tecumseh.  I had to trim off the section that the old exhaust pipe went through, but it looks fine.

 

 

I used another length of the same tubing to push the hood forward to clear the front of the new engine, 2" gives plenty of clearance

 

 

I'll figure out some way to bridge the gap, but it's coming together nicely:

 

[Bolens 1000]

Aw man that hurts... you could have bought the cables from one of your two site sponsors and saved 10% !

[stanz]

Well, now I know, thanks!

[stanz]

It's alive!

 

I put it all together and everything works, well mostly.  I still have to bridge the gap between the hood and the console.  I'm using the old hood prop for now. It rests on the console keeping the hood clear of the engine.

 

I need to adjust the snowcaster lift, it won't go all the way to the ground. Plus, it doesn't throw snow, it just clogs.  I should note that today's snowfall is fluffy, not heavy, only an inch or so. My old Ariens threw it just fine. I have a set of impeller rubber mods that I was going to install on the snowcaster anyway.  The gap between the impeller and the machine is about 1/4". The rubber will close that up and hopefully solve the problem.

 

The new belts grab a bit too well, even with slack in the belts the snowcaster spins.  Pictures below show the assembled tractor with weight/fuel box in rear and snowcaster installed.

 

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[Bolens 1000]

Its not the snow caster thats the problem, you need to adjust your ground speed to the conditions.

These have to be moving pretty quickly in anything 3'' or less

[Bruce Dorsi]

" I need to adjust the snowcaster lift, it won't go all the way to the ground. "

 

There is no lift adjustment to be made.  .....The shoes/skids  on the sides of the snocaster are adjustable, and control the height of the blower off the surface.

 

If your driveway is paved, you want to set the skids so the center of the blower is 1/8" or less off the driveway.  ....For a gravel drive, greater clearance will lessen the amount of stones thrown. 

[stanz]

The skids are all the way up but the blower still sits off the ground. The attachment lift is keeping it up.

[Bolens 1000]

Reverse your lift lever and see if it helps, you got it on backwards.

Also your PTO is spinning because there's no belt guides for the pulleys

[stanz]

Reverse your lift lever and see if it helps, you got it on backwards.

Also your PTO is spinning because there's no belt guides for the pulleys

Thanks, I got the snow caster with the lever installed, I assumed it was right.

 

I have a lower belt guard on my pretty 1220, I'll put that on today.  The upper guard was all this tractor came with.

[stanz]

Good call on the belt guard, once installed the PTO stopped spinning.

 

I reversed the lift bar and it's still not right. One side sits on pavement but the side with the lift arm is elevated about 1/8".  I like to scrape the pavement as clean as possible.

[stanz]

I did the rubber impeller mod yesterday hoping to try it out today but we only got 1/3" of snow, not worth starting it up.  The Sno-Caster design doesn't lend itself to very efficient blowing. The gap isn't consistent and it's greatest around the exit.  Still, my gap is now zero through most of the arc, that should help.

 

Oh, and I found I've been calling it the wrong name, according to the graphics on it the name is Sno-Caster.

 

Now if I could just get a decent snow fall.

[Bolens 1000]

I did the rubber impeller mod yesterday hoping to try it out today but we only got 1/3" of snow, not worth starting it up.  The Sno-Caster design doesn't lend itself to very efficient blowing. The gap isn't consistent and it's greatest around the exit.  Still, my gap is now zero through most of the arc, that should help.

 

Oh, and I found I've been calling it the wrong name, according to the graphics on it the name is Sno-Caster.

 

Now if I could just get a decent snow fall.

 

These do not work in under 3'' snowfalls

Single Stage blowers need to be fed a decent volume of snow in order for them to work.

You have what is called the "Square back" snow Caster which is an older design, they switched to a "Round back" in 1970 that was vastly improved.

 

Here's a video to prove to you these single stage Bolens blowers can throw snow!

[stanz]

These do not work in under 3'' snowfalls

Single Stage blowers need to be fed a decent volume of snow in order for them to work.

You have what is called the "Square back" snow Caster which is an older design, they switched to a "Round back" in 1970 that was vastly improved.

 

Here's a video to prove to you these single stage Bolens blowers can throw snow!

 

 

Well, if it works half as well as Ed's I'll be happy:

 

 

http://youtu.be/98QZWBfBGYA

Edited by stanz, January 12, 2015 - 11:51 PM.