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1220 Engine swap issues?


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#1 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2014 - 10:26 AM

My Bolens 1220 starts and runs great but it smokes like a fiend.  I don't really want to look like I'm killing mosquitoes while I'm blowing snow.

 

I also have two Briggs 16HP boxer engines from Snapper LT16s, I had projects in mind for them that never happened. Actually one was earmarked for a Bolens build.

The engine is still mounted on the Snapper plate so I figure I can adapt that to speed the process.

 

I know that Forum member Husky has done a similar build with a hydro Bolens. Has anyone else done it?

 

One issue is that the Briggs was mounted 180 opposite in the Snapper so the exhaust would be facing the driver, instead of the front.  Not a big deal since it does flow downward.

 

I know I'll have to add a fuel tank and I hope my Tecumseh is one of the 1" shaft units like the Briggs.

 

I plan on pulling the Tecumseh today and putting the two engines face to face to see if things will line up okay.

 

Any other issues I need to look out for?  Any help would be appreciated.


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#2 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2014 - 10:28 AM

Here's a video of Husky's build from Youtube:

 

http://youtu.be/0n8zxUkW5c8


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#3 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2014 - 01:09 PM

I am in the process of putting a 13 hp Chinese motor in a 1254?.  The motor fit in OK but is thicker, (parallel to the crank shaft) that the original Wisconsin engine.  Therefore I do not have room for the PTO belts or tension pulley.  Using original motor mount frame holes and no room to move the motor forward without moving the hood forward also.  This would make the hood be short of reaching the dash to ride where it is supposed to.  Going to run it without a PTO as it will have a blade on during the winter and be a yard donkey during the summer.

 

Also the distance from the bottom of the base to crank shaft center is less than on a the Wisconsin.  Using a 33" belt from NAPA, green heavy duty but still FHP rated.  Good luck with your re-power project.  Will post photos of mine when it is up and running.  Possibly later this afternoon. :thumbs:



#4 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2014 - 07:29 PM

I lucked out, the Tecumseh has a 1" shaft. I removed the Tecumseh and the pulley slid right on.  Tomorrow I'll try to work out mounting it.  The engine still has part of the Shrouding from the Snapper on it. I may be able to use it to make the installation look more like a stock engine.

 

gallery_64272_8_296501.jpg

 

gallery_64272_8_20230.jpg


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#5 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2014 - 09:48 PM

Those dual mufflers sound amazing.I have a Snapper LT16 and it's the best sounding engine I've heard in quite a while.

 

 

1 thing though you might want to either turn the ends out or make dual stacks out of them.It might be a little Warm on your feet  :flamethrower: :rolling:


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#6 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 10:04 AM

Husky sent me the link to his Briggs re-power, very helpful:

 

http://www.mytractor...ad.php?t=241569



#7 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 10:29 AM

Saw this 1220 with a 16 Hp Briggs in it at the Wellington OH show a couple of years ago.

 

Can't say that I like the way he did the exhaust, but the rest was very tidy.

 

 

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#8 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 06:41 PM

Well, the engine is mounted, it's not pretty, but it should work.  I ended up drilling two new holes in the tube frame to secure the mounting plate.  I gotta figure out the belt sizes and go from there. I didn't realize how hard removing the drive belts was going to be!

 

I may move my battery to the rear of the tractor and mount a gas tank in its place.

 

gallery_64272_733_423840.jpg


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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 08:54 PM

Looks like you have a good start on that re-motor job.The way I measured my belt was took an old belt and cut it i two.  Placed the belt in both pulleys with the amount of slack I wanted for the tension pulley and marked it.  Then measured the belt from the end to the mark.  Hit it right the first time.


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#10 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 11:14 PM

I had a bunch of belts on the wall and was able to figure out the drive belt size.  I used a calculator to estimate the PTO belt size, waiting for NAPA to get them in.

 

Calculator:

 

Belt Length = 2C + 1.57 x (D1 + D2) + 1-in.

Where:
C = The distance between the motor and fan shafts
D1 = The diameter of the small pulley
D2 = The diameter of the large pulley

The math is quite easy; it simply includes adding and multiplying. Here is a completed formula to walk you through the steps.

Example:
C = (12-in.) distance between shafts
D1 = (3-in.) diameter of the small pulley
D2 = (8-in.) diameter of the large pulley
New belt length = 2C + 1.57 x (D1 + D2) + 1-in.
2(12-in.) + 1.57 x ( 3”+ 8” ) + 1-in.
24-in. + (1.57 x 11-in.) + 1-in.
24-in. + 17.27-in. + 1-in. = 42.27-in.


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#11 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 12:20 PM

Well, so much for formulas. I couldn't get an accurate measure for the distance between the two shafts and my guesstimate was too long, 47".  I used Chieffan's method but I had to tape two belts together since I didn't have a long enough belt and I wasn't going to cut the new 47" one. 

 

I brought my taped belt to Napa and the guy said I needed a 44" belt.  I asked if it was under and did he round up to 44", he said yes so I figured I was good to go.... Too short. I went back and it turns out he rounded down to 44".  The 45" belt is okay, it slips but not all that great. Hopefully the PTO can be raised a bit to add more slippage because a 46" is way too loose.  If not, I'll lower the engine about 1/4" and that should do it.

 

Another issue I'm going to face is draining the oil. It was never easy in the Snapper and now the engine is "backwards" so the main drain is in the middle of the tubes.  The side drain isn't all that easy to get to either.  I may install a drain pipe like they use on snow blowers.

 

It's around 28 degrees right now, hopefully it will warm up to 34 or so to make it tolerable to work out there in a bit.


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#12 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 02:02 PM

Glad the belt measuring worked out for you.  Your on the right track by putting in a drain tube.  Take up to much room for shipping so they don't put them in.  Makes it cheaper to make by a few cents too.

 

I spent about 2 hours putting a tube in the front tire on mine  (1354 ? ?).  Darn I hate those small wheels more every time I have to mess with one.  Wish they would forget about the tubeless as most will have a tube in them with 5 years anyway.  Go back to the 2 piece rims and eliminate a lot of tire mounting problems.  Just my opinion  Uncle Arthur sure don't help any either.



#13 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 09:42 PM

  :ah_shoot:

 

Two steps forward, two steps back.

 

Forward

1) The belts are spot on and I can tighten them when they break in.

2) I cut the mounting plate so that draining the oil on the side is a piece of cake now.

 

Backward

1) The choke plate was stuck and the arm broke off while I was loosening it.

2) I put 12 volts to the starter and got nothing, oh well.

 

The engine has been sitting for a few years so I shouldn't be surprised.  Luckily I have another that was sitting right next to it and a running 12HP version in my Snapper.  Still, I was hoping for better luck, at least I'm moving forward.


Edited by stanz, December 20, 2014 - 09:42 PM.

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#14 stanz OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2014 - 08:00 PM

Well, the spare carb had the same issue. I fixed the starter but it whines so I went online.

 

I ordered a new carb and starter on ebay.  No hurry to get the tractor ready now, we have weather in the 50's forecast for this week. We'll probably break a record.

 

While tearing down the engine I found a mouse nest in the fan shroud.  I took some time and blew out all the cooling fins since I had most of the covers off.  These engines aren't the easiest to change a starter, that's another reason to buy a new one,  You have to take off the fan shrouds, fan, and flywheel to get at it properly.

 

I've decided to make the conversion permanent, I don't see why I'd want to go back to the Tecumseh. Yes, the torque from a single is better than a twin but I expect the 16HP twin is close enough and the smoother running is a real bonus.

 

I plan to either cut the mufflers so they exhaust straight down or add another 45 to direct it away from my feet.  If my welding skills were better I'd weld up new pipe.


Edited by stanz, December 21, 2014 - 08:09 PM.

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#15 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2014 - 08:27 PM

I hear you loud and clear on the welding part.  I learned and stayed with the stick welders.  Tried a wire welder one time.  Spent the better part of an afternoon trying to weld with it.  Mad a lot of splatters and wasted a mile of wire and no weld.  Son was down the next day and it went home with him.  Thought about trying another brand but every time I do I think about that afternoon and that ends the thought fast.  If it can't be stick welded I don't do it.






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