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cdi idea for a poor boy

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#1 Munchterra OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2014 - 10:13 AM

Has anyone here ever attempted or know someone who has tried to install a rotor and stator cdi system from a snowmobile engine or such on a tractor engine? I would think it could work. Just looking for input. Thanks!

#2 Bmerf OFFLINE  


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Posted December 13, 2014 - 10:21 AM

I have no idea, but :welcometogttalk:

#3 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2014 - 10:49 AM


#4 tater195 OFFLINE  


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Posted December 13, 2014 - 12:35 PM

I have seen a few mods where they have used automotive style triggers. I am not sure the stator/cdi would be a direct swap and you may run into several issues trying to use the sled flywheel. Balance will be the biggest one, especially if you plan to run it higher than 3600rpm Getting the timing right will be trial and error. It might be best to make the prototype adjustable to find the angle and make the final version "fixed"

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#5 Munchterra OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 07:54 PM

I once used points coil and carb from a 71 Chevy to make a 450 kawi run. I'm trying to build a super high revving 14 Briggs opposed. Thinking about the auto style trigger as well. Thanks GT! Happy Holidays!

#6 canadiantriumphtr8 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2014 - 12:07 PM

No reason you could not just keep the points and use them as the triggering device.
You would just have to lube the wipe block periodically and blow out any dust.
The points would last a long time as there is no current arc crossing them and you would not have to fuss around with getting the timing correct.
A simple cdi box using the existing coil and points setup would work very well and if the cdi ever crapped out it would be an easy road side fix to revert back to good ole reliable points, even if the spark is weak it still runs.
Make sure the points plate is well grounded to the engine as this can cause engine missing problems.

One thing on the cdi box, you want more current as opposed to high volts with a cap of not more than 2mf.
Also I would run with NRK iridiums, better than the Champion plugs with a gap of not more than .035 and use dielectric grease on all the connections including the plug tips.
Most of the MDI boxes use a small cap of about 1.2 mf with high voltage to drive them.
This high voltage will eat your plugs and destroy the plug wires over time as the voltage melts tiny bits of metal off the electrodes. They do this to burn lean mixtures on the v8's not so much on the 4 or 6's and it makes the box cheaper to make instead of spending money on a good power circuit/capacitors.
Search on the net for some older units as they can be bought cheap.

Edited by canadiantriumphtr8, December 21, 2014 - 12:41 PM.

#7 Munchterra OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2014 - 10:08 AM

Was considering a chain or gear drive distributor. Might be able to get a custom machined one made if it's feasible. I like it old school...coil towers big carbs!

#8 Chris11 OFFLINE  


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Posted December 28, 2014 - 03:02 PM

Heres the one im using

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#9 Munchterra OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2014 - 01:16 PM

Will that type of setup allow for flywheel delete? I'm running an opposed 14hp Briggs IC and don't want a bomb on top. I'm Trying to eliminate the flywheel entirely to see how it works out. I know starting and idling will be a trick, but I think it would work.


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Posted December 30, 2014 - 08:01 PM

I run this little box on my Tecumseh OH 160. I removed the flywheel trigger pins and glued in a magnet in the advance pin location. I ordered mine without the mounting bracket or the flywheel magnet ring. It directly fires a Bosch Blue coil. 







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