I confined my search to the GTT Sears forum. Lotsa' hits on dozer blades but I didn't see these modifications listed. No rocket surgery, obviously... mainly I wondered if trying this would cause some unforseen jam up. It didn't - instead, there was a very easy way to establish a new lever stop.
I don't know if there are design differences between 42 and 46, but for reference, all pics below are of a 46" assembly.
Doesn't lift high enough:
I need to use my tractor and dozer blade in some rough terrain. However, the dozer blade doesn't seem like it lifts high enough to get through some of that terrain; and I'm not just talking about deer trailing but I do hope to work on some of my trails with the tractor and dozer blade.
Further aggravating the problem, my dozer assembly has some moderate wear in the various pivots and rods. I didn't feel like welding and refurbishing every rod and pivot hole although I did arrest wear and greatly reduce lift effort semi-permanently (another story)... and I wanted a double solution. One to improve the design for more lift and at the same time, cancel the lift losses from the wear.
You can see where I'm going... what I wondered was: If I remove the OEM lever stop and make a 2nd UP notch, will it then be possible for the lever to badly over run the latch sector's arc and cause some foul up or jamming? Instead, another improvised lever stop presents very easily along the way so that over-run remains blissfully impossible.
Left tire interference:
When turning right on steep sidehills, I found that front axle tilt can cause the left front tire's inner sidewall to hit a pointed protrusion on the dozer arm - so that I simply cut off. The piece removed is nowhere near structural so I was glad for that.
This is not difficult so I'll keep text to a minimum with any luck. The main questions were: 1.) Will it work reasonably well? I wasn't expecting perfection with something like this. 2.) Will it add a decent amount of lift?
It does both to my satisfaction.
The first pic below is just to show the simple cut-off (with a ruler for scale) for side hill tire clearance. It also shows a tease pic of the dozer arm in some unknown second UP position...
Next is the new height notch. It looks like I must've cut it without my glasses while 3 sheets to the wind. However, there are access excuses and I took it a slice at a time to get as much added lift as I could. End excuses.
Here is a measurement to show how wide the remaining "dog" is for reference:
How much did it gain? The tractor is on wheel ramps right now so I can't give an actual total height. Instead, I took 2 measured pics as follows: One with the dozer in the OEM up notch and one with the new cut-out UP notch. Looks like it added 2-1/4" of dozer blade ground clearance:
First up: OEM up position:
Modified second UP position:
What about losing the original lever stop? Can the latching overrun and jam things all to heck? Actually, there was some interference that I capitalized on by using a 4" body grinder and wheel to make a new stop as follows. It had to be cut very deep for clearance and to stop the interference from wedging the lever to the left. It now stops the lever rock solid every time without pushing the lever sideways:
Below is a closeup of the UP stop when engaged. It actually goes a lot deeper than this pic would have you believe; almost 3/8" deep:
Below is an overview of the tractor with the dozer set in the new high lift 2nd UP position. There is enough leg clearance between the lever and the tower to get by but I plan to only use the high lift notch when needed. For riding around on easy turf, I'll be using the OEM up notch.
Furthermore, it appears possible to me that the dozer assembly may be more prone to flex from bumps when in the new high lift position. So that's another reason I plan to use it only when needed.
Height adjustment cam:
The wear and droop meant that my dozer blade's OEM height adjustment cam (basically a DOWN stop) was unable to set the blade above ground level. I have a gravel driveway so for plowing snow, I wanted to be able to adjust it above ground level. That's why you see a piece of strap steel (painted blue metallic) replacing the OEM cam. The strap is long enough that it compensates for all the droop and pivot wear. That strap has a slot hidden under the washer so it is adjustable. At its current adjustment, it "flies" the blade about an inch above ground and the skids are set about 1/2" above ground.
Ok, so that's it. I expect cutting on an antique dozer assembly may not be the most popular thing in the world, but necessity and all that...
Edited by MountainMichael, December 11, 2014 - 12:17 AM.