16 replies to this topic

[chieffan]

I finally got it patched together enough to see if it was going to run OK.  It did !!  All gears worked fine, no shifting issues that I found.  Rode it around the drive a few times to warm it up good.  Then it went back in the garage.  The motor is bolted down with a 3/4" board under it to hold it off the frame.  Had to use a 5.25" single pulley as the motor has a 1" shaft so the pulley I picked up won't work.  They don't make bushings that thin that I know of.  The motor is a 13 hp JIANGDONG,  Chinese to say the least.  Will have to modify the side shields for the muffler on the right and the motor shield on the left.  It is electric start so will have to figure out how to wire it up for dash controls.  Will have to check the hood height yet and several other things before I start to clean it up and ready for a paint job.  New belt will be one of the first when I get a different pulley. I may go with a single groove and run with one belt since it wont be doing any hard pulling like a thrower or tiller.  Will probably have the blade on it but not sure.

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Edited by chieffan, December 09, 2014 - 03:52 PM.

[EricFromPa]

Hey that should have plenty of power for what you need it for.And they are very easy of Fuel.Which is always a good thing.

 

 

Someone on here did a repower with one of those engines and modified the exhaust and air cleaner to clear the hood But I can't find the thread.He did a really good job with it to.As far as I know he's still using it.

 

It was one of the Blue harbor Freight engines but it really turned out good.Wish I could find the Thread because it has some really good detailed Info and some really good Pics.

 

I'll keep digging for it but there's so many posts since then.I think it was 2 years ago.

 

Edit: it was more like 4 or 5 years ago I'm still looking for it lol.

Edited by EricFromPa, December 09, 2014 - 05:02 PM.

[chieffan]

Hay, thanks a bunch for the encouragement.  I haven't got into far enough yet to see about muffler and/or air cleaner change.  That is a good possibility.  I may get by with just bending the panels out a little and tuck the motor back in a bit.  The muffler has a cover over it that don't get to hot so it shouldn't bother the paint on the panel.

 

Will have to go hunting for that re-power topic.  Would sure like to see how he did it.  The HF engines are about the same as this one. 

[Sawdust]

I like it, solid, sits up right & looks like it's ready to go. What are your plans for it as far as a hood & fenders or are you leaving it as is. 

[EricFromPa]

Hood will fit if you do this to the exhaust.

 

 

 

[chieffan]

I like it, solid, sits up right & looks like it's ready to go. What are your plans for it as far as a hood & fenders or are you leaving it as is. 

I have a hood from ? ?  that will work on it.  A couple in fact.  Also have the rear fenders and seat off a 800 or so tractor.  The firewall and side panels were removed to try out this engine first.  they will be put on also.  Everything will get a fresh coat of paint.  After a good power wash and some sand blasting.

[chieffan]

Hood will fit if you do this to the exhaust.

 

 

 

small 2008 April 13 006.jpg

I wasn't sure what threads I would find into the head being a metric engine.  That will be easy enough to iron out.  Thanks for the tip.

[EricFromPa]

Think he Cut off the pipe and slid a 1" nipple over the flange and welded it fast then threaded 1" pipe elbow onto that.It's pretty simple and very clean looking.

[chieffan]

Think he Cut off the pipe and slid a 1" nipple over the flange and welded it fast then threaded 1" pipe elbow onto that.It's pretty simple and very clean looking.

Would want to make sure there was clearance to turn the pipe back into the block.  Will look that over tomorrow afternoon. I have a welder and and band saw so no arm strong work yet ! Finally found a pulley on Amazon that I needed.  3.95" X 1" 2 Groove V belt.  Found a lot for B belts but V was kind of scarce.

 

Looks like he used a Kohler muffler or aftermarket.  Not hard to find them around.  In fact I may have on tucked away some place.

Edited by chieffan, December 10, 2014 - 04:19 AM.

[EricFromPa]

The Block isn't threaded. You will have to cut the exhaust header off and Weld a threaded nipple to the flange.

 

 

This is the Engine pulley that you will need.I'm not 100% sure that they are for 1" crankshaft but I THINK they are.It's been a while since I had 1 off.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item1e93d28f91

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c8f5f0eca

[chieffan]

The Block isn't threaded. You will have to cut the exhaust header off and Weld a threaded nipple to the flange.

 

 

I found that our today when I looked it over good.  Not going to get into rebuilding an exhaust manifold if I can keep from it.  Will see what the hood does when it get bolted in place.  Really need a wire welder for that kind of work and I don't do good at all with a wire welder.  Learned in school on a stick and that is what I stayed with.  Tried a wire one time and played with it for 1/2 day.  Finally got tired of it and gave it to my boy and went back to the old Lincoln.  Have thought about it again when I see them on sale for a good price but then I think of what happened the last time I bought one and change my mind real fast.  All I ever did was go through a lot of wire and make a big mess of splatters.

[chieffan]

 

This is the Engine pulley that you will need.I'm not 100% sure that they are for 1" crankshaft but I THINK they are.It's been a while since I had 1 off.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item1e93d28f91

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c8f5f0eca

The first one don't state what size the bore is.  The second one states it came off a Wisconsin 10hp and has it listed as a 1" bore.  I thought the Wisconsin's had a 1-1/8" shaft in the 10hp and larger?

Edited by chieffan, December 10, 2014 - 07:07 PM.

[EricFromPa]

I'm not sure what tractors used bigger or smaller bore pulleys.

 

 

All I know is that the 1254 pulley fit on the 11hp briggs engine out of the G11.I still have the G11 engine Pulley.I'll measure it tomorrow.Think the batteries in my Caliper froze oh well I can get close enough with the tape measure lol.

[chieffan]

Made some progress today on getting it back looking like a tractor again.  Got the spacers for the motor made and the motor bolted down.  Got it as low as I could and still have clearance for the recoil mechanism.   Mounted the firewall and dash.  Everything cleared except for one small corner of the left side panel.  It was going to be in the way for the oil check port so trimmed that corner with a tin snips and filed it smooth.  Got the throttle control hooked up.  They even put the cable clamp in the right place for a change. Now to get the choke cable run and hooked up.  Then I can start on the electrical and put the fender and seat on.  Might get to use it to plow snow yet this winter.

 

Due to the motor design there is no room for any belts to run the PTO on this unit.  If I moved the motor far enough forward to have room for those belts the hood would not bolt on..  Going to forgo any thoughts on using the PTO on this tractor.  Planed to put a blade on it any way and the GF can use it for a yard donkey.  She would not use the Ford as she could not control the foot pedal for the hydro.

Edited by chieffan, December 11, 2014 - 06:14 PM.

[NUTNDUN]

Does the start on it have a solenoid built in to it? If it does wiring it up to the factory ignition switch shouldn't be too hard. I don't know how far you want to go with modifications but you could always build an extension to mount the hood onto so it clears if you try and run the PTO off the motor and extend the hood a little.