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More 2Stage Woes On A Ht20


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#16 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2014 - 03:54 PM

The HT23 has a heaver bolster then the rest of the large frames.

 

I hate to say this Jerome but that info is incorrect.

 

The 1886 thru the first run Ht23 with a serial number 01 used the same front axle, pivot pin and bolster. The HT23 that starts with a serial number 02 and up had a bigger pivot pin so the hole thru the axle and bolster needed to be bigger. I have heard of a heavy duty bolster but yet to ever see one that is any different then the rest other then the pivot pin area.

 

There may be some confusion between the bolsters but I think there was a material change to make them harder which is why they did not use pivot pin bushings in the later ones. But this is a guess from me on that.


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#17 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2014 - 04:15 PM

Came across something interesting the other day,I have been tearing down a HT-23,I pulled the bolster out of it, I had one from a HT-20,so decided to compare them,now this HT-23 was the last year they made them,I measured both of them and they are identical in every way,now maybe there is a chance the earlier 23's had the heavier bolster,sure wouldn't have thought they would have went backwards with them but you never know,like others have talked Bolens info from the factory wasn't always correct,so there is a chance in the yearly seminar manuals they posted, there was going to be a change to making them heavier and it never happened

 

 

I hate to say this Jerome but that info is incorrect.

 

The 1886 thru the first run Ht23 with a serial number 01 used the same front axle, pivot pin and bolster. The HT23 that starts with a serial number 02 and up had a bigger pivot pin so the hole thru the axle and bolster needed to be bigger. I have heard of a heavy duty bolster but yet to ever see one that is any different then the rest other then the pivot pin area.

 

There may be some confusion between the bolsters but I think there was a material change to make them harder which is why they did not use pivot pin bushings in the later ones. But this is a guess from me on that.

 

 

Well got that info from someone else.....

 

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My factory engineering changes do state a change in the front axle area on the 2389-02...


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#18 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2014 - 04:20 PM

Ok, sounds just like what Bob is saying about the bigger pivot pin being used,now I have to go check that out also,I still have the bolster and frount axle
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#19 WrenchinOnIt ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2014 - 05:17 PM

My long time outdoor power service manager said he runs water through an engine to remove the carbon.  Something about burning water will soften the carbon and out it goes.  He told me this when I had problems with my first snow blower's air filter freezing up and choking the engine. Said to remove the filters during winter.  I asked about all that water going through the motor.   Sure might be worth a try to save an engine.


Thank you for the input ,Interesting, never heard of this method, one would think it might prove challenging to maintain combustion, but I have already sent the engine to a " recycler"
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#20 WrenchinOnIt ONLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2015 - 08:23 PM

Bit of an update , truth be told the old boy probably should have become a donor unit..... But I can't bring myself to give up on one especially a large frame.... So, bolster is getting replaced, steering bridge was cracked and brazed at lift cylinder mount,it will be replaced and the rock shaft ears that mount to the lift cylinder where cracked and will be weld repaired. Engine was toast so Rick Show hooked me up with a low hour K582 that was (sadly for the HT23) a crash-and-burn victim ( tree fell on tractor, engine caught on fire). Anyways along with most of the othe parts needed ( from Rick as well) I'm going to put it back together. Here are some pics of the engine. It's my belief that the factory valve cover gaskets where misaligned ( the old S pattern) and it had been blowing oil from the get go. A case of brake cleaner later I found it did have cooling fins on the jugs after all 😏. I pulled the heads to get it de-carbonized , really not much there, lapped the valves, reinstalled and adj. them. It will need a new stator as well. Put new main seals in it also, they looked ok but I had them and figured it was a better safe than sorry step.

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#21 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2015 - 11:53 PM

Sure looks a lot better now than it did when I pulled it out
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#22 WrenchinOnIt ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 03:51 PM

Update:some blasting, some painting, some wrenching, some gaskets and new electrical components and the engine work is complete, NOS carb and a big oh yea! on the compression , that old 20 isn't going to know what hit it

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#23 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 05:06 PM

I am blown away at the work you did on that engine. I would have scrapped the whole thing for a donor. Congrats on great workmanship. 


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#24 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 05:13 PM

Great Work!

I am always happy to see when guys take time to rebuild the original motors and preserve the tractor in its original state instead of a quick fix or hackjob.

 

:thumbs: Awesome Job!!!


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#25 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 08:18 PM

That sure does look purdy!
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#26 Deerlope ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 08:31 PM

That is what is called taking a sow ear and turning it into a silk purse. Good work, it looks great.


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