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Cleaning Tractor Frames


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#1 cootertom OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 08:29 AM

Has anyone soda washed the gt frames and if so which would be the best, soda washing or sand blasting it? I'll be carrying one in the next few days.


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#2 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 09:34 AM

I'm ready to prime and paint my frame and I'm looking for some help on prepping the frame too so your post couldn't be more timely. So far I've taken the frame down to metal using an angle grinder and abrasive wheels. My frame had engine oil and transmission fluid build up so I know it'll need some kind of cleaning. Thanks. I'll be following along.
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#3 panzersarebest OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 09:44 AM

Sand blasting is what I normally use but the T70b I am doing now I have just been using sand paper because there is hardly any old paint.


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#4 AfterShock95 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 10:04 AM

Moosetails you can buy a cleaner from any auto paint store that you put it on a rag and wipe the frame off and and let it air dry it will get rid of any oil left on the metal then use self etching primer and a primer sealer over it and then paint away I really like using the primer sealer over top of the primer I think it makes the paint job look better
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#5 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 10:20 AM

Moosetails you can buy a cleaner from any auto paint store that you put it on a rag and wipe the frame off and and let it air dry it will get rid of any oil left on the metal then use self etching primer and a primer sealer over it and then paint away I really like using the primer sealer over top of the primer I think it makes the paint job look better

 

"Prep-sol"?  I used to use that, now I wipe everything down with Acetone before I paint.


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#6 AfterShock95 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 10:34 AM

Yea that's it prep sol we used to get it by in 5 gallon cans you can use lacquer thinner also I've never tried acetone before . Does it smell like finger polish remover ? Or am I thinking of the wrong kind of acetone
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#7 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 11:44 AM

yep, smells like polish remover.


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#8 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 12:05 PM

I pressure wash first to remove heavy debris. I use gas as a solvent at minus $3. a gallon it can't be beat. Then I sand blast. Making sure ALL grease is removed is important because sand blasting just moves it around like molten snot  :D  After I sand blast I use high pressure air blast to remove all media then hand wash it down with lacquer thinner or acetone. When this dries I prime with Rustoleum Etching primer then finish coat a few days later. I don't clean no more than I can prime in one day because of flash rusting. A word of caution any cleaning methods using solvents should be done outdoors away from any flammable objects.


Edited by Sawdust, December 01, 2014 - 04:18 PM.

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#9 AfterShock95 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 01:13 PM

You have never had any paint problems using a oil based product to clean with ?

Edited by AfterShock95, December 01, 2014 - 01:19 PM.

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#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 01:32 PM

If your trying to get the metal down to paint-able condition I would suggest you use plain old oven cleaner.  It will cut the grease and get right after any loose paint that needs to come off.  Any paint remaining after a good power washing won't be any problem.  The go with the etching primer and sealer before you start the top coats.  A friend who restores old tractors for a living taught me that rick when I was getting ready to paint mine.  Lot safer than the highly flammable stuff.  If it is safe to use in an oven it is safe to use in a building on your tractor.  Not so with gas, etc.  Just my 2 cents worth. 

Be safe.

 

Roger


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#11 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 02:08 PM

You have never had any paint problems using a oil based product to clean with ?

Sorry if I misled you I corrected my post. With my final wash I use lacquer thinner or acetone. I don't have a preference because I use this a lot with modeling trains. The acetone will evaporate more quickly in hot weather.


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#12 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 02:12 PM

If your trying to get the metal down to paint-able condition I would suggest you use plain old oven cleaner.  It will cut the grease and get right after any loose paint that needs to come off.  Any paint remaining after a good power washing won't be any problem.  The go with the etching primer and sealer before you start the top coats.  A friend who restores old tractors for a living taught me that rick when I was getting ready to paint mine.  Lot safer than the highly flammable stuff.  If it is safe to use in an oven it is safe to use in a building on your tractor.  Not so with gas, etc.  Just my 2 cents worth. 

Be safe.

 

Roger

"Any paint remaining after a good power washing won't be any problem" That depends on the individual. Personally if I'm going through the trouble of a bare frame restore or rebuild I won't leave any old paint behind.  :poke: 


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#13 AfterShock95 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 03:02 PM

I agree if you have it tore down that far do it right
And I would do sand blasting but I've never messed with soda blasting
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#14 cootertom OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 03:51 PM

Sand blasting seems harder to clean up when done. It seems to get in places it doesn't belong like when you go to the beach. Soda blasting is basically a liquid type cleaning and doesn't leave grit and stuff. It also is suppose to leave a film on it so it can set for some time without flash rust. Just thought someone may have tried it before. I may try it this time  but I will talk to the people at the company before I try it.


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#15 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 03:59 PM

For a professional job, sandblasting all the way!

If your not going to take the tractor down completely though, sandblasting is not the way to go as it will get into the places you didnt take apart.


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