18 replies to this topic

[sodisr]

I have the drive on my sno-caster all apart   I'm talking about from the gear box to the sprocket...  I have the sprocket off,,, But the bearing,, # 1185898 is about seized on the shaft...  ( Doc,, you have those.?? )

 

I'm trying not to destroy it in case I have to bring it into a local bearing shop..  2 nd,,  it appears to be in a cast housing ,,  Is it pressed in the housing.???...Or doe's it only come out one way.??  3rd There is a collar on the back side of that.. I have the allen screws out and it will not budge either.. The parts manual doesn't even show it being there,but looks like it is there to keep the bearing and collar tight to the side of the caster body.. which there are 2 carrige bolts holding it to the body..I've been soaking it for a few days now and today I think I'll add a little heat to it.. Also the sprocket looks a bit worn,, the teeth are showing signs of leaning ..I might be OK for now but will probably wear my new chain out quicker.. ARE sprockets available.???  13 tooth,, 3/4 in shaft.. still looking around for that..

 

                                                                                             Thanks   sodi

[Bolens 1000]

I have not had a chance to ID and interchange this bearing as of yet. I may pull the one of my caster to ID it since this is about the 3rd person who has asked about this bearing recently

I believe these are pressed right into the cast block.

 

I stock new sprockets and drive chains if needed.

 

I'll get back with you on what I find on my Snow Caster's bearing.

[wilberj]

Dont these have the same gear box as the deck...

[sodisr]

Yes they do wilbej   The gear-box is all new.. it's the shaft going out to the sprocket to turn the auger..

 

Dr B.  If I get it apart...  I'm going to my local bearring shop tomorrow with it.. I'll keep you posted...

 

...

[Bolens 1000]

Its a sealed unit as I expected it to be.

I went and dragged my blower from the back then got a little carried away in the process and stripped down the whole thing to rebuild

 

The early series used this setup then went to a separate bearing and flange set later in production.

I'll get mine interchanged in the next day or so, the collars I already have a bunch of.

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 
• 
• 

[Bruce Dorsi]

I have the drive on my sno-caster all apart   I'm talking about from the gear box to the sprocket...  I have the sprocket off,,, But the bearing,, # 1185898 is about seized on the shaft...  ( Doc,, you have those.?? )

 

I'm trying not to destroy it in case I have to bring it into a local bearing shop..  2 nd,,  it appears to be in a cast housing ,,  Is it pressed in the housing.???...Or doe's it only come out one way.??  3rd There is a collar on the back side of that.. I have the allen screws out and it will not budge either.. The parts manual doesn't even show it being there,but looks like it is there to keep the bearing and collar tight to the side of the caster body.. which there are 2 carrige bolts holding it to the body..I've been soaking it for a few days now and today I think I'll add a little heat to it..

 

                                                                                             Thanks   sodi

 

The bearing is a self-aligning bearing, and that collar is part of the bearing assy.  .....The purpose of that collar is to lock the bearing to the shaft.

 

The collar is actually eccentric on the I.D. , and when turned against the extended part of the inner race of the bearing, creates the lock.

 

To remove the bearing, after you have removed the set screws from the collar, try rotating the collar in either direction while holding the shaft stationary with a vise-grips or pipe wrench.  (Most times it will take some effort to unlock the collar.)

 

Rotating the collar in one direction will  loosen the collar, while rotating in the other direction will lock the collar.

 

You should not have to buy the bearing and the flange as an assembly.   .....Once the flange is removed from the blower, the bearing "swivels" in the flange and can be removed from the flange.

 

The new bearing may, or may not, come with a new collar.  ......The self-aligning bearing has rounded "corners" on its outer race to allow the self-aligning movement in the flange. 

 

Usually, the self-aligning bearing carries a "U" prefix, such as U-216.  ....The numbers vary depending on the size of the bearing.

 

The bearing is similar to the self-aligning bearing on the main clutch shaft of the tube-frame tractors, but I am not sure if it is the same size.   

[Bolens 1000]

 

Rotating the collar in one direction will  loosen the collar, while rotating in the other direction will lock the collar.

 

You should not have to buy the bearing and the flange as an assembly.   .....Once the flange is removed from the blower, the bearing "swivels" in the flange and can be removed from the flange.

 

The new bearing may, or may not, come with a new collar.  ......The self-aligning bearing has rounded "corners" on its outer race to allow the self-aligning movement in the flange. 

 

 

I have to disagree with the bearing being able to be removed from the cast housing as the one I just pulled off is definietly permanently pressed in the housing with lips on both ends keeping the bearing in (Hence the single part number given by Bolens)

 

You may be thinking about the new style 1185838 flange's that were used on these casters as well.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item234515e42e

[wilberj]

I have to disagree with the bearing being able to be removed from the cast housing as the one I just pulled off is definietly permanently pressed in the housing with lips on both ends keeping the bearing in (Hence the single part number given by Bolens)

 

You may be thinking about the new style 1185838 flange's that were used on these casters as well.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item234515e42e

 

 

Is your blower a 18538 to?

[Bolens 1000]

Yes, an early -01 series

[wilberj]

Yes, an early -01 series

They started at ser# 6000.

[Bruce Dorsi]

I have to disagree with the bearing being able to be removed from the cast housing as the one I just pulled off is definietly permanently pressed in the housing with lips on both ends keeping the bearing in (Hence the single part number given by Bolens)

 

You may be thinking about the new style 1185838 flange's that were used on these casters as well.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item234515e42e

 

Watch this short video:  www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEOJkP3AwEE

 

While this video is of a "footed" pillow-block bearing, it is the same process for the flat 2-bolt flange used on the snowblower pictured in your post above, as well as for most self-aligning ball bearing cast flange bearing assy's whether 2, 3, or 4-bolt mounting. 

 

The "lips" you referred to are there to hold the bearing in place.

 

Also, note the picture of the bearing you posted.  .....If you look at the inner race of the bearing, you can see that the O.D. of the extended inner race is not concentric with the bore of the bearing.  ....This is the eccentric which the collar fits on to lock the bearing to the shaft. 

[Bolens 1000]

You were right again Bruce!

Stupid me, I looked at the block and sure enough this one also had the slots for removal.

Got it pulled out and now can get it Identified as well as the separate bearing flange if needed.

[chieffan]

Did the older style snow casters have this same set up?  The ones with the drive shaft going to the left from the gear box?  I may have to do something with mine after I run it for a time and be nice to know what I am getting in to.

[Bolens 1000]

Did the older style snow casters have this same set up?  The ones with the drive shaft going to the left from the gear box?  I may have to do something with mine after I run it for a time and be nice to know what I am getting in to.

 

The older square backed ones were even more simple than these. Instead of using a self aligning bearing on the sprocket shaft a stationary piece of metal was used along with a bronze bushing and needle bearing  , only ball bearings were on the Augur itself.

[chieffan]

Thanks much.  Now I kind of have an idea what to look for when I get into mine.  Don't know the numbers of mine as I can't read them any more.  Tag is about gone completely from being outside for 10 years or more.  I found a manual but it is for the newer style.

 

Rog