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3/16 Set Screw Delimma


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#1 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 11:54 AM

I looked for an appropriate thread to post this, with the hope of a high rate of expert suggestions. This dilemma could span many forms, so If not appropriate here, please move it.

I am trying to remove these 3/16 set screws, a 5mm wrench seems to fit tighter. I have 3 of 6 removed, but I am afraid that I am going to strip the remaining ones. So far I have tried.
1 - PB Blast, Lots of it over several days.
2. Heat, till the bottle was empty
3. Taping with a hammer.

 

What I haven't tried yet.

Removing the mandrills from the deck for a better angle of attack.
Fabrication of a tool to allow the use of an air impact wrench with the 5mm bit.
Trying to pull the pullys without removing the set screws.
After the inevitable stripping Drilling these out.  

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#2 Coventry Plumber OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 12:08 PM

I think the fabricated impact bit would be the best chance. Good luck
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#3 pigsitter OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 12:22 PM

About the only other trick I've used is heating a part up then spraying it with penetrating oil while still hot,just be ready for the flames!!

I only do this a last resort but I've had it save the day more than once.


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#4 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 12:24 PM

What was the old timer deal of heating it up and dripping wax on it and drawing the wax into the threads?
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#5 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 12:28 PM

More soaking, hitting, heat.  Maybe can rig a weight or pull on the wrench and leave set awhile?  I've had such things come right out easy after a day or so soaking, just never know.  Often as this happens, makes you wonder why they didn't use heavier set-screws or a diff setup doesn't it?  The set screws/blts with square heads that still stick out of hole are easier to get out with correct socket, but guess can't use those when between sheeves like some.


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#6 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 12:33 PM

you can try using a flat bottom tap to clean up the threads first, so you are not fighting the rust.

would make it easier to get the set screw out

 

after you got them all out and clean up and after you put it back together, melt some wax and put it the holes for the set screws.  the next time you have to remove the set screws just remove the wax and the set screw will come out easier


Edited by lyall, November 29, 2014 - 12:37 PM.

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#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 01:12 PM

First use a bottom tap to clean up the exposed threads.  Then heat/soak/heat soak....for a couple days.  Then I'd use a hand impact with hammer.  If that doesn't get them out for me, I drill them out.  The hole for the allen wrench serves as a great centering tool for the first bit.  Use the same size bit as the proper size allen wrench.  Then go with the drill size for the tap you used to clean the threads.  It should leave you with just the metal left in the hub's threads, which you can chase out once off the shaft.

  By the way, before drilling, measure the distance the shaft is from the outside of the hub's hole, then place a piece of tape on the drill bit so you know to stop drilling once the tape meets the surface of the hole.  This will prevent drilling into the shaft.


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#8 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 01:16 PM

If you drill them out, they are really hard. It helps if you can heat the temper out.


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#9 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 01:25 PM

I second Daniel on the hand held impact driver.  I have one for each tool box. 

 

I also am known to soak it in 50/50 ATF and Acetone (best penetrant I know of) and then take a small punch and tap the screw a little while to help work that penetrant in there. 

 

The little buggers like this are the worst ones.  :(

 

Ben W.


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#10 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 03:22 PM

Be patient. I had to soak the bleeding nipples on my old Chevy for 6 months with PB Blaster but, in the end they came out so I didn't have to remove the cylinders. Soak them and try them every few days. Any other way can create a lot of work. Good Luck, Rick


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#11 diesel nut OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 03:40 PM

If you can get them so the holes are upright try filling it with evapo-rust rust remover.  It won't hold much so you'll have to change it every half a day or so to get fresh stuff in it.  Or flip the whole thing over so you can put them in pans of it.  As long as what your trying to get the rust off of is submerged it'll work.  I've used it on pretty much everything small i was trying to get rust off of and it works real good.  It also is about as thin as water so it will make its way into the threads of the screw once the rust is gone.  I had an old K series Kohler that had sat outside for years before i got it with no head on it and the piston about half way down and full of leaves and water. Cleaned that out and filled it with the rust remover and the next day it had worked down through the rings and into the pan and a few taps with a block of wood and it started to move free.  Hope this helps.                   Stewart


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#12 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 07:44 PM

Thanks all, I an also dealing with a hard drive re-format, many updates to still download. any how, I was able to remove the pully from the one mandrill that I was able to remove the set screws. I read all the suggestions from my other PC while dealing with the frozen screws. After heating with MAP gas all I ended up doing was twisting the 5mm bit. Quick trip to town to get a adapter and new 5mm to fit the air impact, set to 60psi and FAIL, then as a last resort I remembered I had a manual impact, All I have managed to do is round out the set screws and wear out the new 5mm socket. I plan to finish cutting the last two bolts off the deck adjustment bar tomorrow, and remove these two mandrills to see if I can find a machine shop that will help me replace the bearings. I hate to admit failure but I am whipped. Professional help may be the better route If I plan to use this for mowing.  

 

Hmmm, I can't seem to upload pictures now.


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#13 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 07:46 PM

I think I need to download SP 1 now. be back soon.


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#14 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 07:48 PM

I guess I should feel very lucky that we were able to get ours out.

#15 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 08:09 PM

I don't know if I blame you.  Those little stupid inset screws are terrible once they rust in place.

 

Ben W.






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