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Coil Wired Backwards And It Ran


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#16 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2014 - 10:19 AM

Keep in mind that I am NOT using the original wiring block that plugs all wires in together in one block.  That block was missing when I got the tractor.  The switch I got from NAPA I am sure is an INDAK switch as my old keys would work in it as well as the new switch key would turn the old switch.

Most of the pre-70's tractors were screw terminal switches. Less as we entered into the 1970's. The 1053, made only one year - 1970, used the same switch as the 850 and 1050. It had screw terminals, not a wiring block to plug on the switch. Just an FYI.


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#17 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2014 - 10:20 AM

Most of the pre-70's tractors were screw terminal switches. Less as we entered into the 1970's. The 1053, made only one year - 1970, used the same switch as the 850 and 1050. It had screw terminals, not a wiring block to plug on the switch. Just an FYI.

 

:ditto:


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#18 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2014 - 11:07 AM

Ok, Thanks for that information.  The schematic don't show any of that, just the connections.  That makes it a lot simpler to replace a switch when necessary.  Will post the switch number when I am sure it will work.


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#19 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2014 - 06:07 PM

Are you getting spark with that switch?

Never had any 5 prong work on those tractors.....

We just checked on the spark about 10 minuets ago.  Used a rope to pull it over and had the plug grounded against a head bolt.  Had good spark with the key in the on position and in the start position.  The NAPA number is 7-01854.  On the back of the package is states "Replacement for Wheel Horse 103990, John Deer AM 102544, AM 31995.  The switch is wired with the battery wire to the B terminal, the + side of the coil to the I terminal, the Starter reply wire to the S terminal and the lights to the A terminal.  There is one open terminal that functions the same as the A I use for the lights.  Would work for an electric clutch for mower, thrower, etc.  The switch is a little over $14 from NAPA.



#20 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2014 - 06:28 PM

he NAPA switch worked out just fine.  Put a new plug wire on and pull started it up and it ran like a top.  Lights work and all.  Turn the switch off and everything dies.  Had it running and turned the key to the start position to make sure I had ignition in that position and it kept right on running.  Now to get the starter generator back and put on.



#21 farmerall ONLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 12:34 PM

Are you getting spark with that switch?

Never had any 5 prong work on those tractors.....

 

I used a 5 prong switch on my 1050 when one of the connections broke off the original switch. It works fine. All you need to do is find one with the correct terminals. It still works the same, there will be two prongs that aren't needed though,


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#22 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 06:09 PM

Thanks farmerall for the vote of confidence.  I used one of the two not needed prongs for the light feed rather than draw off the ignition terminal.  Where there is a will there is usually a way. :wave:


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