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David Bradley Ball Lock Clutch Question


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#1 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2014 - 09:09 AM

On my DB 600 it uses a ball lock clutch , I'm not sure how this is supposed to work correctly , when I first got it you could move the lever forward and it would stay engaged on it's own then it started to need the handle pushed forward to make it move , I tried to adjusted the outer adjusting hub , it does seem better  but still doesn't " lock " in on it's own . I tried to adjust the thread rod but the  nuts are frozen and will need heat to get them to move I think .  There's a lot of slop in all the linkage near the " throw out bearing ( ? ) " so that might be a problem too . If everything is adjusted and working correctly when you move the lever forward  should it snap in place when engaged or the weight of the lever hold it engaged on it's own ?  Thanks Al



#2 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2014 - 05:47 PM

yes it should snap over, even when not running. Not sure what tractor your working on as the rod should have a spring on it, though the pressed steel arm and not nuts and bolts. The ones with nuts and bolts are the spring loaded clutch older styled one, found on the first couple of models and the sickle mower units. Get a picture and show us what  you have or what you don't have.



#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2014 - 09:22 PM

This was the only picture I have on the computer but you can see the 2 nuts on either side of the clutch fork ( ?)   But a strange thing happened tonight , I was moving the tractor around to the other part of the garage , , the clutch kept popping out so the handle needed pressure on it , I had to increase the rpms then felt a   "pop" in the handle then it sort of "locked in "  moving in and out produced the same thing , Could something just needed to be "seated  "  for it to engaged correctly ?  I looked at the 600 manual and  it also shows just a nut on either of the clutch fork , no spring

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#4 VSTROM803 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2014 - 05:47 AM

That is correct for the ball lock type to have a threaded rod with nuts. If it is adjusted correct it is very difficult if even possible to engage the clutch if the engine is not running. It's sort of like trying to shift a manual transmission with the engine turned off. Both of my Super575s have that type of clutch.


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#5 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2014 - 06:24 AM

I will try it with the engine off , I'm glad it's staying engaged on it's own , even if it  needs further adjustments snow's on it's way and that's going to be the snow pusher , my PK w/fel is at my sons , he was using it to move stones for a shed he's getting   ,



#6 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2014 - 06:00 PM

yes its correct for that tractor, I forgot about the later models and there single disc clutch until I went back and looked. Part of what might be wrong is the shifting blocks are worn. If you look behind the clutch where the fork is, you will see a pair of little blocks bolted to the fork. sometimes the front edges get worn down and don't pull the fork over far enough.


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#7 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2014 - 06:40 AM

Used the tractor to plow snow on Sunday , I'm going to need to look at it closer because at times it would stay in enough to plow only a few time when I pushed the lever hard it " locked " in , something it never did since  I had it  . Now I know how it's supposed to feel like when engaged correctly .



#8 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2014 - 06:21 PM

sounds like your right on the edge of the lock over. I'd look for anything that bent or twisted, if adjusting the nuts isn't working out.


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#9 IWLBCNU OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 10:38 AM

Have the ball bearings been oiled on the clutch?



#10 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 11:32 AM

Have the ball bearings been oiled on the clutch?

 

I've never done anything other then lubing the external linkage and the resent adjustment . Does the clutch need to come apart to lube the bearings ?



#11 IWLBCNU OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2014 - 11:08 AM

If you look behind the clutch, you should see a roll pin welded to the case, you are supposed to drop a few drops in it on occasion.


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#12 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2015 - 06:44 AM

The clutch stopped engaging all together plowing snow . I thought something inside broke because the fork kind of went over the throw-out bearing but after taking it apart found one of  the small bolts holding the little pads that ride against the throw-out bearing stripped causing the fork to kind of ride over it ,I don't know how the pad didn't fall off ,the pad was pretty worn in one direction so I turned it around , a new bolt , some grease and it's never worked so good !


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#13 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2015 - 06:11 PM

that actually a common and very over looked thing. I had forgotten about it till you posted this. The blocks as there are called, wear off on the face side and need to be flipped around after many yrs of hard service. it just one of those little things you do and never have to do again probably in your life with the tractor. Sometimes the tiniest slack at that spot will keep a clutch from going over center and locking up correctly. Sometimes its bad enough to burn the disc and ruin it.


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#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2015 - 07:40 PM

Forgot to mention that the 1/4 pin that the fork pivots on was worn a lot a the lower end .I didn't have another pin but did have a grade 8 bolt and lock nut to replace it with that seems to work
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