Posted November 22, 2014 - 04:55 PM
- Sawdust and Oldford have said thanks
Posted November 22, 2014 - 06:39 PM
After looking at it I think it may be easier to undo the engine bolts and spin the engine vs taking the front end off. I would think the tank would just lift up if I removed the heat shield but it doesn't appear that it does.
Posted November 22, 2014 - 10:22 PM
Which item is the trouble? Pix shows tractor AND truck with hoods up! Hee! ON the gas tank, it should have a big strap band all around it, with split and bolt at ends. Think the bolt is on top, kinda under the cast nose a bit, but might be on bottom, I forget. It also goes down around the special base there that mounts the grill and tank on frame. It is not easy to unbolt the front on these, but once off, you DO have lots more room. Be carefull also of the special shut-off valve and mounts. It is easy to break the hose barb off the tank on older ones. Newer ones have the rubber plug and insert then, which this later one may have? Mine needed a good carb clean to run right. Kind of tight in there to work on stuff, t hat is bigger block engine.
Posted November 23, 2014 - 03:38 PM
Posted November 24, 2014 - 12:48 PM
David, you can see in the videos that I posted (last year?) that it ran fine so I can't believe that it is the lobe. And as I told you the last time I drove it to the shed, basically it would idle but anything over idle it would starve. So tried pressuring the tank a little and it ran like it should.
Did you ever try just running a gravity feed tank and bypassing the pump?
Edited by twostep, November 24, 2014 - 12:49 PM.
Posted November 24, 2014 - 07:09 PM
Posted November 26, 2014 - 11:29 PM
Posted November 29, 2014 - 08:57 PM
Posted December 01, 2014 - 09:01 PM
Posted December 01, 2014 - 09:18 PM
Do these have a Tow valve? It needs a carb and fuel pump but I almost had it move under it's own power.
Yes they do, but it's been years since owning one, and I forget where you find it.
Posted December 02, 2014 - 05:39 PM
Some HOrse valves are right on top and in plain site. A shaft with a pin thru it. Turn 180 to make work. THINK Mine had a big hex plug on left side, hard to reach with fenders on and towards front. Just looks like a plug but had to loosen or tighten some to make it work. Took a small 5/16" wrench on it if I recall and had to break loose with bigger one and after that would come loose with smaller wrench. Real Hard to get in there when assembled. Much easier if you have the fender tins all off. I have also had Horse units with a similar plug way in back on left sort-of that neede a wrench to loosen also. There were some variations. Even with the plug loose, it will try to drive a little, but not with any real force. One way to test is to jack tractor up off wheels, or remove wheels, set on stands. Run a belt from another Horse off the side pto of it to the pulley on the 14's rear. You can use the belt from the 14 if you have it off now? You can pull tractor up to back of the 14 and align some, slip on belt, move rear tractor back some to make tension (dont' take much), and turn on Pto of rear tractor to run the axle of the 14. It turns the correct way. IF you have the double pulley on yours it sticks out more and is easier to put belt on it and still have fenders on. The pulley is used for a rear mount tiller on these. Not all have them tho. Course, if you don't have another HOrse, you will need a diff idea. I never did try an electric motor on it, and a drill isn't big enough to fit shaft on pto side unless you make an adapter. I got this idea from Horse site before trying other methods. Don't pull the 14 off the stands messing this way. You can run controls like they should be forward and back and variable speed this way and is kinda neat! The GT 14 trans is really some diff than the other smaller models, even tho it looks same. There are diff manuals and parts books for them. I used to have them, but gave them to new owner of tractor when sold. Think I got them printed off this site or the Red Square site for free. It does seem like the tractor manual was kinda small and not lots of info, but does have parts page. One big one or two, not several little ones. Made it a little harder to look at, but study makes it come clearer, ha!
- olcowhand said thank you
Posted December 02, 2014 - 05:56 PM
Even with the plug loose, it will try to drive a little, but not with any real force.
That's what it did. Between that and how easy it is to push I would assume there is a valve opened somewhere. I knew the pulley was for the tiller. I have no need to these rear ends.
I will say I can't stand these gt14s. They are just sitting. I want to drive one so bad you don't even understand. I've been sitting on them just pretending.
Posted December 10, 2014 - 11:16 AM
Lift the seat pan... you'll see a diagram of the the tow valve.
You will reach it from the back, it is on the top left side of the hydro pump. I had them both in the tow position.
Call or text if you have any questions...
- BairleaFarm and Sawdust have said thanks
Posted December 21, 2014 - 08:52 AM
Good luck with them!
Posted January 10, 2015 - 10:27 PM