Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Tundra Troubles


  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#1 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,418 Thanks
  • 3,165 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted November 19, 2014 - 04:55 AM

Anyone here ever do a heater core on a toylet odor tundra? Last few days I was wondering why my mouth was tasting something funny on the ride to work... Then I got it good this am ... Heater core. Antifreeze taste that's what it was.
This thing is starting to nickel and dime me to death... NEVER EVER AGAIN.... I HATE WORKING ON THEM but also I'm also to dang cheap to pay ,only to have it not done correctly....
Looks like ill be a toylet odor tech this weekend.... Ooooooh soooooooo not happy!!! Especially when Isee what the nnational average of this job costs!!! $750-$950 .....

#2 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,522 Thanks
  • 39,742 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 19, 2014 - 06:16 AM

Sorry to hear of the issues! Can't give you any help on this!


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#3 Oldford OFFLINE  

Oldford
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 50409
  • 802 Thanks
  • 572 posts
  • Location: n.e.

Posted November 19, 2014 - 06:21 AM

They get clogged with scale, If it's not leaking you might be able to flush it out.  If you can disconnect the two hoses going into the core, use a cut-off garden hose with a plastic barb stuck into the end.  Catch the green stuff in a pan and recycle it.  I use water and compressed air in both directions until it runs clear.  Do it in a place where pets don't go cause you can't catch every drop.  Have done several vehicles like this it brings back the heat, gets rid of the smell, saves the heater core.  good luck


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#4 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,459 Thanks
  • 6,629 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted November 19, 2014 - 06:39 AM

Have you looked for any youtube videos on your Tundra ?    I'm a firm believer after doing some work on  6.0 Ford , following the Snap-On Shop Keys instruction  ( which are copied from the Ford shop manual )  taking off the stuff they told me  and then watched a guy on Youtube  do it SO much quicker by just a few different steps here and there  !!!    


  • Cvans said thank you

#5 EconChuck OFFLINE  

EconChuck
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 18979
  • 251 Thanks
  • 288 posts
  • Location: East Central Indiana

Posted November 19, 2014 - 09:23 AM

Hi,
What year is your Tundra and how many miles?
I have a 2007 and love it, 127,xxx miles and counting. Fortunately when I bought it the dealer included an unlimited powertrain warrantee(gotta pay a deductible for each repair). That helped to make the decision to drive it for a long time.
Recently had to replace the water pump, told by dealer a ~$700 repair and just paid my deductible.
Good luck.
Chuck
  • Alc said thank you

#6 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

toomanytoys84

    Aaron

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 45129
  • 8,243 Thanks
  • 5,083 posts
  • Location: Ohio

Posted November 19, 2014 - 09:41 AM

Hi,
What year is your Tundra and how many miles?
I have a 2007 and love it, 127,xxx miles and counting. Fortunately when I bought it the dealer included an unlimited powertrain warrantee(gotta pay a deductible for each repair). That helped to make the decision to drive it for a long time.
Recently had to replace the water pump, told by dealer a ~$700 repair and just paid my deductible.
Good luck.
Chuck

 

I got the same unlimited powertrain on my Tacoma.  Good piece of mind.

 

What year is your truck?  Every heater core I have messed with was a PITA.  1997 F150 4.2(the crappy 6)  I had to remove almost the whole dash.



#7 Gtractor ONLINE  

Gtractor

    The Tractor Hoarder

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 782
  • 6,634 Thanks
  • 3,923 posts
  • Location: Chillicothe, MO

Posted November 19, 2014 - 10:31 AM

Last heater core I had to work on was on a 1952 Chevy pickup.  It gave me no trouble,  was easy to get to and I had it out in a jiffy.

 

:poke:   :wave:  

 

I should probably get a point just for rubbing that one in.........      :anvil_drop:       


  • LilysDad and Bill 76 have said thanks

#8 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

WNYTractorTinkerer

    Tinker Master

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10789
  • 8,319 Thanks
  • 4,666 posts
  • Location: Avon, NY

Posted November 19, 2014 - 10:45 AM

Things have changed quite a bit since 1952 though..  More and more BS to change them out now!  If you taste A/F in the cab the core is leaking and DO NOT FLUSH IT!  

 

Swap the core out.. I've never worked on a Tundra but follow the heater lines to where it is..  It's never fun.. I liked the older vehicles that had a heater box in front of the firewall.  They were EASY!  

 

Just take your time and remove the heater box plenum (The Glove box needs to be removed first to gain access).  Take your time and don't force/break things..  

 

Good Luck!

 

Look HERE



#9 Kmac1 ONLINE  

Kmac1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62275
  • 521 Thanks
  • 221 posts
  • Location: Central ok

Posted November 19, 2014 - 11:20 AM

Weren't the heater cores in 1952 a dealer installed option?



#10 Kmac1 ONLINE  

Kmac1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62275
  • 521 Thanks
  • 221 posts
  • Location: Central ok

Posted November 19, 2014 - 11:27 AM

If you smell it in the cab it is leaking in the heater box, can you feel the carpet to see if it is damp where it is running down the firewall.  You shouldn't have to pull the whole dash,  just loosen the right side enough to remove the heater box.  It will be tight getting the box out and you may need a helper to hold the dash out as you remove the heater box.  When you get the box out there are some 1/4-7mm head screws you will take out to access the heater core.  As far as step by step instructions I can not provide those.  Plan on spending 4-6 hours on the R and R.  willie


  • MH81 and HDWildBill have said thanks

#11 LilysDad OFFLINE  

LilysDad

    Cat Lover

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10443
  • 9,687 Thanks
  • 7,694 posts
  • Location: N. Illinois, DeKalb County

Posted November 19, 2014 - 12:08 PM

Things have changed quite a bit since 1952 though..

 

I liked the older vehicles that had a heater box in front of the firewall.  They were EASY!  

 

 

 

How about the early 60s Chevy trucks. They had the box on the firewall . . . down behind the fender well!  I knew a guy that had a beater 73 Pontiac he drove to work. When the heater fan went out, he torched a hole in the fender to get at it. :D


Edited by LilysDad, November 19, 2014 - 12:09 PM.

  • WNYTractorTinkerer and Bill 76 have said thanks

#12 Jazz OFFLINE  

Jazz
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62028
  • 1,442 Thanks
  • 953 posts
  • Location: Thunder Bay Ontario

Posted November 19, 2014 - 12:18 PM

I would reference a repair manual as they usually offer a solution to removing heater core that may not be obvious to owner.. In my experience it is never something so simple as a loose hose connection when there is coolant leak in cab



#13 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,955 Thanks
  • 3,329 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted November 19, 2014 - 01:34 PM

My experience with heater cores has me firmly beleaving that the car designer started with the heater core and built the rest of the car around it...... Pontiac Sunfire as an example.  


  • Alc, LilysDad and Sawdust have said thanks

#14 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,418 Thanks
  • 3,165 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted November 19, 2014 - 03:41 PM

Thanks guys for all the insite LOL . the clunker is an 02 with 170K on it. This on has to have the dash and support removed to get to the box. It has a/c too... I hope I don't need to discharge it..... If so... Stop leak here we come!! And down the road this truck will go! 15 years of working as an auto tech has me completely hating it!

What stinks is I need a truck, but have so few choices. The new GMs are gutless, Fords are ugly and un-comfortable , Toyotas are fuel pigs as are Nissans too...only real choice is a Ram but they have girly suspension( probably really rugged but my brothers would bust my you know whats if i got a truck with coils lol) so whats left??? and I need a crewcab too.... Damit GM get with it!!! I need a half ton diesel!!!!!!

#15 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 1,898 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted November 19, 2014 - 06:26 PM

bust your you know whats to buy a Ram?? I'd b bustin chops on anyone that buys a Toyota or Nissan for sure...


  • Sawdust said thank you




Top