It's an odd mix, but I will get there.
People often ask why I will spend almost as much for the original manuals, or sales brochures, as I will for a tractor. Some sellers are dumbfounded when they find out they tossed out 50% of their potential sale price. Others want to know why I want yet another tractor or implement when I already have one just like it. Here are two examples of why:
I have a reel mower that fits on the Waterloo 15s & 20s. I would like to get it working again, but it is missing some parts, like the deflector shield and the rear rollers. Fortunately, I have a spare mower that has those parts. Unfortunately, the deflector shield is bent on the trailing edge. It looks like it should either a) lie flat on the trailing edge but has been bent up in places, or b) curl up but has been bent down in places. I wasn't sure which. Fortunately, I have an original manual and it clearly shows the shield with an upward curl on the trailing edge. Could not have solved that one without both spare parts & the manual. Yes, I could have remade one from the picture in the manual, but the manual doesn't say how thick it is. Only the spare could tell me that.
The second example is the clutch lever on my Waterloo 30. It has been "fix" by a previous owner. I know it has been replaced because it doesn't look like the one in my sales brochure, or the one that is on my spare Model 30.
I had some time today, so I did a little CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) work. I removed the OEM handle and made a rough cardboard template. I took that inside & made a proper template. The rough one gave me the dimensions & angles, the new one also gave me straight lines and smooth curves. I used that one to mark an outline on some 1/4" sheet that I bought from the scrapyard for 40 cents a pound. I bought lots because there are more projects in line that require 1/4" plate. I cut along the lines using my angle grinder and a cut off wheel. The inside curve required some fettling, but it came out better than I expected. After I drilled the hole for the clutch rod and the hole for the pivot shaft, I bent it using a propane torch & a really big hammer. I then cut the head off of a bolt & trimmed the thread to make the pivot shaft. Then it was over to the welder to attach the little stop plate & lock in the pivot shaft. A little grinding, some rust converter, and it is ready for paint.
It may not be exactly OEM, but it is hard to tell the new from the old. Could not have done it without the original printed materials, spare parts, and CAD.