Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Troy-Bilt Engine


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#16 j p smith OFFLINE  

j p smith
  • Member
  • Member No: 54240
  • 18 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Posted November 20, 2014 - 08:13 AM

I looked at the number on the frame last night and I can not make out the first or last numbers, the number stamps were not centered where I can read them. it looks to be that there are 7 numbers, the middle 5 numbers are 19724. The first number looks like it could be an 8 and the last might be a 7. Thanks



#17 j p smith OFFLINE  

j p smith
  • Member
  • Member No: 54240
  • 18 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Posted December 16, 2014 - 05:20 PM

Have not been able to find out any addional info on the Troy/Briggs engine. I think I am going to go ahead and tear it down,see what it needs to rebuild it. Thanks for the replies.



#18 TAHOE ONLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,488 Thanks
  • 4,947 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted December 17, 2014 - 08:24 AM

Here are the pony serial numbers.

 

I am betting that "8" is an S and yours drops in there early 1983

 

Jul - 1976 P10001

Jan - 1977 P12184

Jul - 1977 P17239

Jan - 1978 P21736

Jul - 1978 P27504

Jan - 1979 P33557

Jul - 1979 P40287

Jan - 1980 P48773

Jul - 1980 P58906

Jan - 1981 P68034

Jul - 1981 P80423

Jan - 1982 P89466

May - 1982 S101843 Pony III

Jul - 1982 S105606

Jan - 1983 S117319

Jul - 1983 S129028


  • j p smith said thank you

#19 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,173 Thanks
  • 2,144 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted December 17, 2014 - 09:37 AM

Have not been able to find out any addional info on the Troy/Briggs engine. I think I am going to go ahead and tear it down,see what it needs to rebuild it. Thanks for the replies.

 

If the cylinder is scored, look for a different engine.  (More info below.)

 

If the cylinder bore is not scored, check the piston.  ....If that is OK, your engine is probably worth repairing and installing new piston rings.

 

Most often, when these B&S engines would seize, it was where the connecting rod attached to the crankshaft. .....This can be repaired 90% of the time.  ....You will need to replace the connecting rod.  ....When there is not enough oil, the aluminum material from the connecting rod gets deposited onto the crankshaft journal due to friction.  ....The aluminum on the crankshaft can be removed by using emery cloth or muriatic acid (Home Depot, Lowe's, masonry supply houses, some hardware stores, swimming pool supply, etc).   .....If you use abrasives, you only want to remove the aluminum.  .....Do not score the crankshaft.  .....Use some fine "Scotchbrite" to polish the crankshaft journal.

 

If the crankshaft is seized in the cylinder block, you may, or may not, be able to repair the damage.  ...Sometimes, it's not as bad as it seems.

 

If your engine is not worth repairing, look for a good-running used 5hp B&S with model #130202.  ...These engines were used on many types of equipment, but did not have the extended camshaft.   .....Make sure the crankshaft is the same length as on your old engine.  (If your old crankshaft is good, but the cylinder block is shot, you can re-use your crank.) .....Use your original camshaft and side-cover on the "new" engine.  ....Check the valve clearances, and you should be OK. 



#20 j p smith OFFLINE  

j p smith
  • Member
  • Member No: 54240
  • 18 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Posted December 22, 2014 - 12:54 PM

Thank you Tahoe.

 

Hey Bruce. Thanks, this makes the most sense. Thanks again. I will get into the engine next week.






Top