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Rebuilding Hydraulic Spool Valve For Johnson Loader

hydraulic spool valve johnson loader massey

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22 replies to this topic

#1 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 10:02 PM

Has anyone been successful at rebuilding a dual spool loader valve? The one with my Johnson Loader on my Massey 1655 needs some help. I have thought about swapping it for a single stick dual spool but it would be quicker to replace it with another two stick. I would love to be able to rebuild it but I have never had one apart and I don't know if it is something that I would be able to do. So I would like to know if any of you have rebuilt one before and if so do you have any tips?


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#2 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 12:21 AM

They aren't hard, George, assuming what Johnson used is a normal hydraulic valve.  Unless the spools and bores are worn, there aren't many things that can go wrong.  You should be able to get either a seal kit from the valve manufacturer if indeed they still exist or pull it down and get the o rings matched. 

 

Ben w.


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#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 08:01 AM

George, I bet it has bad O-rings and it is easy to rebuild. Take it apart and see how everything looks, then take the parts to a hydraulic shop and they will fix you up with the proper seals and O-rings. You can handle it no problem.
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#4 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 08:05 AM

I wasn't sure if there would be a bunch of parts flying out if I pulled it apart. I need to get a pressure gauge too I guess. Thanks for the confirmation guys.



#5 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 08:45 AM

Just be sure to document the rebuild here! :wewantpics: :tapping_fingers:



#6 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 09:18 AM

I don't know how soon I will get to it but I would like it functional for the snow if we happen to get hammered. Might try and work on it through the week or next weekend and I will definitely take some pics.


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#7 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 11:33 AM

Are they leaking or just weak pressure??  Sometimes bypass valves can get gunky and sticky and not seat, thusly letting pressure slip by and not working correct. That valve is usually under an acorn nut/cap and can come off easy. Have to watch for the spring and any little contact pieces that will want to come out when cap is realeased. O-rings or seals on it maybe too, but many times just a tapered pin that sets into a machined hole, all polished and smooth of course.  If yours are leaking, then tear-down to new seals is needed. The idea of twin valves and a "Joystick" might be good if mounted out in air, not enclosed in a body. If you had to have rebuilt by someone else, bet new valves would cost about same as having shop do your old ones.


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#8 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 08:15 PM

I got the valve removed from the loader and the piston removed from the spool for the main lift. That all looks to be in great shape. I did removed what I believe is the pressure relief valve. There was a spring and the little insert piece. There was a bolt in the end of it against the cap. I don't believe the bolt is correct though, almost like someone else was in there before. The valve was definitely worked on before, judging by the marks from tools used to tear it apart. I will get pictures of it here in the next day or two.

 

I think I might be steering towards just getting a new valve.


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#9 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 07:50 AM

That bolt is the item you turn to change the pressure you wish to release at. Usually a locknut or some resistance to keep in place. Only way to check pressure after adjust is put back together and use gauge in system, then tear all down again and re-adjust if not right. Spring strength also involved in this.


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#10 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 09:02 AM

That bolt is the item you turn to change the pressure you wish to release at. Usually a locknut or some resistance to keep in place. Only way to check pressure after adjust is put back together and use gauge in system, then tear all down again and re-adjust if not right. Spring strength also involved in this.

 

I will definitely need to take some pics then. There isn't anything this bolt could thread into other than sitting inside the spring. There was a thin washer inside the cap the bolt head was resting against. I guess I could technically use a couple more washers to shim against it a little tighter. 



#11 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 01:00 PM

Is there NO hole in the inner works to screw that bolt into then??  Is there a brand on the valve? Might have to see if any manuals maybe on-line.



#12 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 02:06 PM

Here is a pic I took of the valve with my phone before removing it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • massey_loader_valve.jpg

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#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 07:09 PM

Dang! I didn't need the glasses for that pic. That's one hugh pic, George!


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#14 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 07:13 PM

Dang! I didn't need the glasses for that pic. That's one hugh pic, George!

 

Thanks for pointing that out Kenny. Explains why we found some other pics that were huge like that. I uploaded that with Tapatalk and somehow it is bypassing the server resizing them. I downloaded it and reuploaded it from the pc so it should be good now.


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#15 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 07:41 PM

I was told by a hydraulics place that those small control valves are not rebuildable. They rely on close tolerances and there are no o-rings involved. Didn't even take mine apart after hearing that, just bought a good take off from flea-bay. Hope they didn't jerk me around.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: hydraulic, spool valve, johnson, loader, massey

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